Red Cliffs Lodge: Stay Where Hollywood Westerns Came to Life

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Stay at Red Cliffs Lodge near Moab, Utah, where Hollywood Western history meets Colorado River views, horseback riding, dining, and outdoor adventure.

There’s always been something irresistible about the American West to me. Maybe it’s because, as a North Carolina native, there was nothing remotely close to it where I grew up. Perhaps it’s the lore and what the West has come to represent in the greater American mythos. Most of all, I think it’s the landscapes. There’s a special magic to those wide-open spaces, their fiery colors, and the backdrops of endless painterly skies when the sun is low that bring out a visceral peace that few settings can match.

It’s rare that any one destination can combine all of these qualities into a single experience that captures so much of what makes the West special. When I heard about Red Cliffs Lodge, a resort enveloped by incredible desert scenery and a film set for features dating back eight decades, I knew it was a place I had to see for myself.

Arriving at Red Cliffs Lodge

As I drove along Utah 128, I passed signs for what I later learned were a who’s who of iconic landmarks from famous westerns. Though these films commonly took place in other states, the Fisher Towers, Professor Valley, Mill Creek, and much more featured conspicuous geographical quirks, such as uniquely shaped mesas or pointy spires, all located right here in Eastern Utah.

I found the lodge entrance and followed a winding gravel road to a building resembling a massive log cabin, its burnt-brown hues blending with the colorful canyon walls.

A Cabin Along the Colorado River

My accommodations were a standalone structure further down the property, itself set within a row of miniature houses lining the banks of the roaring Colorado River.

Inside, I found a deceptively spacious interior decorated with cozy Western aesthetics. I had a living room, a kitchen, and a sizable bedroom. A door opened to a back deck that made for a pleasant place to take in the ambiance of the rushing waters.

Dinner and Desert Skies at Ember

I stashed my belongings and made my way to Ember, the lodge’s on-site restaurant. I sat on a balcony overlooking the river and watched the sun drop toward the horizon, filling the outdoors with subtle shades of red.

I was mesmerized by the glowing hues painting a picturesque scene alongside the cliffs, their warm colors beautifully reflected along the shimmering surface of the Colorado. While I feasted on creamy shrimp and grits, the vivid twilight yielded to an encore of brilliant night skies overhead.

I retreated back to my room and decided these entrancing skies, overwhelming in their density of stars given the lack of light pollution, demanded a moment of quiet presence on my porch. I ended my first evening breathing the aroma of dry summer desert air, listening to the trickling river, and picking out the images I saw in the heavens above.

Exploring the Lodge

The following day, I decided a morning swim was in order. I walked to the hotel’s wellness area, where I encountered a gym, a multi-purpose room with yoga mats, and a large swimming pool. The day’s heat hadn’t peaked yet, so I perched under an umbrella and took in the early rays and the glorious 360-degree view of the surrounding precipices, intermixing this lazing with intermittent plunges into the deep end.

I repeated this cycle several times before cleaning myself up and following my curiosity across the street to the film museum.

A staircase in the lobby descended past several posters of films shot around the property over the last 80 years. The museum had exhibits dedicated to the more prominent films, with various props, artifacts, and costumes on display.

​A looping introductory video dove into this history. I was surprised to discover that the view I had from the balcony at dinner the previous night almost exactly matched, 75 years later, the opening shot of the 1950 classic Rio Grande.

From Red Cliffs Lodge to Arches National Park

While there was plenty more to explore within the lodge, I wanted to save the rest for later. There was no need to rush—I was on the doorstep of not one but two national parks in one of America’s most stunning backyards. I headed into Moab for a bit before wandering to Arches National Park, my first pick of the pair.

One of the best things about the American desert is that virtually every state in the region has at least one eccentric little town full of charm, quirky vibes, and adventurous Western spirit, and Moab is no exception. After setting foot in a few outdoor gear shops, art galleries, and endearing gift vendors, I came across the Moab Diner. I have a weakness for comfort-food establishments with wordy menus serving up slices of paradise on a plate. I loaded up on the classics—burgers and a vanilla shake among them—before beginning my hike.

The heat was rising as I ascended a switchback toward the gate, paid the entry fee, and was set loose inside. I’m always amused by nicknames for landmarks within parks, and I figured when I discovered “Park Avenue” that I’d be hiking amid towering rock formations that resembled the famed New York City byway.

I witnessed exactly that as I trekked within the dusty silence between precipices, whose towering facades made for irresistible photos. After arriving at the imposing Courthouse Towers on the far end, I made a mental note of my depleting daylight and returned to my vehicle.

I would only be able to catch a handful of sunsets here, so I had to decide wisely on ideal spots to enjoy them. That night, I chose Delicate Arch. I set out on the trail, moving between narrow footpaths and wider stretches across steep, barren stone until I found a cluster of people gathered before the awe-inspiring earthen portal.

With lanky legs poking out of red stone harmonizing with the evening sky, the majestic arch seized my attention while the sun took away its final light of the day.

Horseback Riding Through Hollywood’s Old West

I went back to Ember the next morning to dive into the breakfast options, including eggs, sausage, bacon, and all the other wonders of the early hours. After I fueled up, I proceeded towards the ranch next door, where I’d be conducting a horseback ride around the property.

While I’m no stranger to horses, this would be my first ride covering the same ground that John Wayne—The Duke—himself literally rode on while acting in the many John Ford westerns filmed here.

While it was a little early for me to be riding off into the sunset, I figured the morning was the next best thing. I saddled up on Leo, my assigned steed, and rode off with my group on a rocky trail approaching the cliffs, revealing spectacular views of the open spaces and desert brush.

Though this Utah terrain was gorgeous by default, there was something about taking it in while on horseback that harkened back to a bygone era before my time. You couldn’t help but wonder what it must have felt like to be on a horse and lay eyes on this country for the first time, when natural mystique reigned supreme before the roads and towns came.

Canyonlands and a Night Under the Milky Way

Canyonlands National Park was my destination for the afternoon. I discovered Dead Horse Point State Park, a bonus state park just beyond the gate, where I adored sweeping panoramas of arid mesas as a prelude to the national park.

Canyonlands was more or less exactly as described—a series of breathtaking vistas over steep walls that appeared to surround me on all sides as I traversed the rocky rims. With daylight fading again, I got lost in the features of the scarred landscape—sheer drops, pockets, and dark holes that seemed to extend endlessly into the distance.

Once the land faded out of sight, the Milky Way made its entrance above. The massive sea of stars millions of miles away bore down as I stood alone, one person in the empty darkness, with nothing but the howls of coyotes echoing across the earth.

Rock Climbing Near Red Cliffs Lodge

The next day, I’d finally get a chance to climb one of the cliff walls I had been seeing so many of. I met Jake from Desert Highlights, who picked me up to scale a few pitches just up the road from the lodge. We started early to beat the sun, settling on a shady precipice that blocked it as other climbers emerged around us.

After a refresher on knots and belay safety, we hauled our gear to our first spot and took turns tackling the cliffs, which had routes for novices and the most seasoned climbers. Eventually, the sun caught up with us, peeking out over the rim and signaling the end of our day’s ascents.

Creative Experiences and Live Music at the Lodge

Beyond wellness, the pool, horseback rides, the film museum, and dining, the lodge also offered daily creative experiences.

On this particular day, I’d be making jewelry. I went with a small group to a room with a long table, where each seat had a set of wires, rocks, clippers, and other equipment to help us.

After receiving a primer on technique, I set to work on my wires, twisting them with my tools, making elaborate cradles to hold my gemstones, letting my mind go, and doing my best to lean into the spontaneous creativity and the little personal touches and twists that resulted.

I began hearing the telltale signs of a band setting up outside, and as I finished my necklace, I headed upstairs to find a crowd assembled on the lawn as local musicians performed sets as part of the Moab Music Festival. This was to be my final sunset, and I couldn’t imagine a better send-off as I heard peaceful melodies against the backdrop of the cliffs and said goodbye to their fiery splendor one last time.

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Plan Your Own Moab Adventure

As I wound around the road to leave the property the next day, I did so with a trace of sadness. There’s something about the desert that seems to make time stand still. The striking topography—the canyons, streams, and everything in between—and the general spirit of the West here offer a strange kind of reassurance that deflates any problems you might have arrived with.

It’s one of those landscapes whose magic has endured throughout the ages, and despite the difficulty in leaving it behind, I knew it would always be there for me, waiting to immerse me under its spell on my next return.

Red Cliffs Lodge offers more than a place to sleep between adventures. Its Colorado River setting, Hollywood history, horseback riding, dining, and easy access to the extraordinary landscapes surrounding Moab make the lodge part of the experience itself. When planning your Utah getaway, explore more of our favorite Utah destinations, national parks, and adventure travel experiences on Wander With Wonder—and discover even more ways to experience the American West.

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