I’ve hiked the Skyline Trail before staying at two hard-to-get backcountry campsites along the trail. As one of the top 10 backpacking trips in Canada, the Skyline Trail is understandably popular so there will always be high demand for campsites. But there’s another way to experience this spectacular trail: a stay at Shovel Pass Lodge.
If you like the idea of hiking in the backcountry but don’t love sleeping in a tent, backcountry lodges in the Canadian Rockies offer a great way to enjoy spectacular wilderness without carrying a full load of camping gear. Shovel Pass Lodge is one of them, and it provides a very appealing way to experience the Skyline Trail. Enjoy the spectacular mountain scenery while carrying only a daypack, with all meals provided, and a comfortable bed in a private cabin to sleep in at the end of the day.
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Looking through the lodge to two ladies enjoying an afternoon snack with a view
The Skyline Trail: One of Canada’s Most Iconic Backpacking Trips
The 45-kilometre-long Skyline Trail in Jasper National Park is a world-class hike and one of the most scenic backpacking trips in Canada thanks in large part to stunning wildflower-filled meadows, panoramic mountain views for over half its length, several pretty alpine lakes, and a section above treeline that offers views of Mount Robson in British Columbia.
The hiking season is short partially because The Notch – the crux of the hike – needs to be snow-free and in some years that doesn’t happen until mid-July. Demand is high for campsites and they are usually gone within minutes when Parks Canada opens Jasper National Park backcountry reservations, usually sometime in late January.
Distance: Approximately 44 km (27.3 miles) one way
Elevation gain/loss: 1,205 m/3,952 feet and – 1,735 m/5,690 feet assuming a start at Maligne Lake
Time needed: 2 – 4 days
Best time to hike: Mid-July to September
Why it’s so popular: It’s the highest and most scenic trail in Jasper National Park with a long stretch above treeline offering incomparable mountain views.
Alpine scenery: Alpine valleys burst with wildflowers in the summer; in the fall the understory is incredibly colourful and beautiful
Mountain views on the Skyline Trail on route towards the Tekarra campground
Why Stay at Shovel Pass Lodge?
A stay at Shovel Pass Lodge, just off the Skyline Trail near the Curator Campground, is a great option for hikers who would like to experience this spectacular hike without lugging camping gear. Split the Skyline Trail into two days. On day one hike 21 km from the Maligne trailhead and on day two, tackle the 26 km over The Notch to the Signal trailhead. Some people opt for another night or two at the lodge, so they can explore more of the area at a relaxed pace.
Booking a night or two at the lodge is an ideal option if you:
Dislike camping and prefer a solid roof over your head in the backcountry
Like the idea of hearty home-cooked meals prepared for you
Prefer to carry only a day pack rather than the full load needed for camping
Enjoy the camaraderie of fellow hikers
Like the thought of an indoor, bug-free meal
Are okay with washing up with hot water rather than having a shower
My private room – with heating – at Shovel Pass Lodge
Shovel Pass Lodge Location on the Skyline Trail
Shovel Pass Lodge is located just west and below Curator Campground, at the edge of a big meadow.
Topographical map showing the Shovel Pass Lodge location just west of Curator Campground off the Skyline Trail
Where Is Shovel Pass Lodge on the Skyline Trail?
Shovel Pass Lodge is 1.1 km southwest of the signed intersection with the Skyline Trail heading northwest to The Notch.
The lodge is 21 km from the southern trailhead across from Maligne Lake. It’s also approximately 25 km from the Signal trailhead. Descend approximately 195 m to reach the lodge. It’s about three minutes down the trail from the Curator Campground.
The lodge can also be accessed from the Icefields Parkway via a 14.4 km long trail.
Signage showing that Shovel Pass Lodge is 1.1 km from the turnoff to the Notch
Shovel Pass Lodge is down in this valley about a 14.4 km hike from the Icefields Parkway
Hiking to Shovel Pass Lodge: What to Expect
Distance: ~21 km
Elevation gain/loss: +551m/-150 m
Time needed: 5.5 – 8 hours
I hiked to Shovel Pass Lodge with a couple of friends. We had parked cars at the Signal trailhead off Maligne Road and caught a one-way shuttle with Maligne Adventures. About 45 minutes later, we were dropped off at the southern trailhead for the Skyline Trail.
We did the hike the first week of August and enjoyed fantastic sunny but not-too-hot weather and excellent trail conditions – with just the odd muddy spot around.
In the morning we made good time with quick stops at Lorraine and Mona Lake before reaching the Evelyn Creek Campground at ~4.8 km. The hiking got more interesting with better views and more wildflowers once we passed Little Shovel Campground at 8.3 km. Our lunch break at Little Shovel Pass, 10.1 km from the trailhead turned out to be a fortuitous stop. It’s here I saw my first wolverine in the wild up on a patch of snow. It took the three of us some time to decide if it was actually a wolverine and not a marmot – but its behaviour, profile and fuzzy pictures confirmed it was indeed a wolverine.
After lunch the hiking got more interesting with huge wildflower-filled alpine meadows – and grand views. We passed Snowbowl Campground as helicopters were replacing full ‘honey buckets’ of human waste with empty ones. The flies were nasty through here.
Next up was Big Shovel Pass followed by a long easy ascent and descent to reach the intersection of The Watchtower and then The Notch. From there it’s a 1.1 km descent to reach Shovel Pass Lodge.
A splendid bit of hiking to the intersection of The Notch and Shovel Pass Lodge
Hiking from Shovel Pass Lodge to the End of the Skyline Trail
Distance: ~25 km
Elevation gain/loss: +440 m to The Notch, -430 m to Tekarra Campground and -900m to Signal parking lot on Maligne Road
Time needed: 7 – 10 hours
The morning starts off with a stiff climb back up to the intersection with the trail to The Notch – and then onwards towards the crux of the hike – The Notch itself at the pass. The difficult part doesn’t last for long. It’s mainly loose footing on scree, but if you take your time with foot placement you’re literally through it in five minutes.
On bad weather days, you’ll need to make a choice if thunderstorms or snowstorms (which can happen at any time in the summer) are in the forecast. The 3 km of trail above The Notch are no place to be in either type of storm. Backtrack if need be to stay safe.
I think the 3 km section above The Notch is one of the most rewarding parts of the Skyline Trail. I love how the trail undulates – offering views down towards the Icefields Parkway on one side and out towards The Watchtower and Centre Mountain along with a couple of small lakes on the other.
The descent to Tekarra Campground is quite wonderful with wildflowers, a rushing stream, likely a marmot or two, and a very good view of Tekarra Mountain. After you pass Tekarra Campground there is some minor climbing through great patches of wildflowers to reach the turnoff to the Signal Campground and the Signal Mountain Fire Road.
What used to be a joyless last 8.5 km on the fire road, is still a knee-pounding descent – but since the 2024 Jasper fire, the forest is alive with wildflowers and the black and spotted remains of charred trees. It’s now a very beautiful section – but still stay alert for bears.
Staying at Shovel Pass Lodge eliminates the heavy backpack, but it sure doesn’t remove the challenge as the second day is still a long, demanding hike – and it’s not for everyone.
Climbing up the trail from Shovel Pass Lodge to the intersection with the trail to The Notch
Gorgeous views above The Notch on the Skyline Trail
Looking down in the direction of the Tekarra Campground
Unbelievable wildflower displays on the Signal Mountain Fire Road
What It’s Like Staying at Shovel Pass Lodge
Sleeping arrangements
There are seven cabins that can accommodate 19 people in total depending on the mix of double and single beds. The cabins are simple and very clean. All have heating and lanterns, hooks for clothes, as well as a mirror and a washbasin.
Facilities
There is one main lodge with a wood-burning fireplace and a comfortable couch and chair. There are a couple of long tables with chairs in the dining room, fresh water for drinking, and a fine selection of books and games. Outside there is a covered porch with seating and a view of the meadow. Two outhouses are onsite and a cold plunge pool is a short hike away, though I never went looking for it.
Food
Shortly after we arrived we sat down outside and enjoyed cheese and crackers along with apple slices and salami, enough to keep the hunger pangs away until dinner was served. I was also able to buy a glass of wine for $10 cash. Beer and cider are your other beverage options.
Atmosphere
I found the lodge to be welcoming and friendly. It was fun to meet the other groups and hear about their travel plans. One couple was staying for a second night so they could savour the experience. A group of guys from Iowa were looking forward to the next stretch and thankful they weren’t carrying heavy packs. One lady had visited the lodge several other times – but as an out-and-back hike from the Maligne Lake trailhead – an option if you don’t want to deal with both The Notch and a longer day’s hike out.
What to bring
Pack an overnight change of clothes, a headlamp, cash, first aid supplies, any medications you need, a pair of camp shoes or sandals, and some warm layers for when the sun goes down. I’d also recommend a small quick-dry towel and perhaps a book or e-reader should you have some spare time.
Happy guests at Shovel Pass Lodge on an early August evening
There are enough books and games to keep you busy, especially if you spend two nights
Shovel Pass Lodge vs. Camping on the Skyline Trail
Shovel Pass Lodge is a great choice when compared to camping if you have the money and the wherewithal to hike two long days on the Skyline Trail. It’s also a great option if you didn’t score any campsites on the Skyline Trail.
SKYLINE TRAIL – CAMPING
SKYLINE TRAIL – SHOVEL PASS LODGEDISTANCE44.1 km one way44.1 km one way + 2.2 km lodge access (out and back)TYPICAL LENGTH2-4 days2 daysACCOMMODATIONBackcountry campground + tentPrivate heated cabinWHAT YOU CARRYFull backpack with tent, sleeping bag, cooking gear, food, 10 essentialsDay pack with personal essentials + 10 essentials MEALSBring and cook your ownPre-dinner snack, dinner, breakfast and packed lunch PERMITSBackcountry camping permit (and they are hard to get)No backcountry camping permit neededSHOWERSNoHot wash water + basinCOMFORTBackcountry campingRustic backcountry comfort
Who Should Consider Staying at Shovel Pass Lodge?
In late January every year when the Parks Canada reservation system opens for Jasper National Park, there is a mad rush to get backcountry reservations on the Skyline Trail. Many people come up short. If you live in Alberta or British Columbia you probably have a degree of flexibility – and can always try again the following year. You can also try to get a cancellation with Schnerp – a service that scans for cancellations and sends you alerts. But for those that will likely never be back in the Canadian Rockies again – you could hike the Skyline Trail with a stay at the lodge.
Shovel Pass Lodge is also great for strong hikers who want the Skyline Trail experience but don’t want to carry a heavy pack. It’s perfect for people short on time as most people only stay one night. It’s also a good fit for older hikers who have the money and still want the backcountry experience, but prefer a more comfortable backcountry experience.
I’ve done both – and at my stage in life, I’m very happy to enjoy a soft bed and home-cooked meals. It saved me a lot of time not having to book online in January when the Parks Canada reservation system opens. With room for 19 people, there is some flexibility in dates. Note that they do open for 2027 bookings on October 1, 2026 at 8 AM MT.
Delicous meals are served at the lodge along with a packed lunch
Final Thoughts: Is Shovel Pass Lodge Worth It?
I think Shovel Pass Lodge is well worth a visit. A stay here is a real treat – especially with comfortable beds and delicious meals. I also love the fact that you can book in October for the following summer and there isn’t the frenzied rush of trying to nab a backcountry campsite on the Skyline Trail.
It was such a treat to stay in a cabin at Shovel Pass Lodge
More Backpacking Trips in the Canadian Rockies
10 Beginner Backpacking Trips in the Canadian Rockies – A helpful guide for new backpackers, showcasing accessible trails with stunning scenery and manageable terrain in the Rockies.
Jacques Lake Backpacking Trail: An Overnight Hike in Jasper National Park – Leave the crowds behind on an overnight backpacking trip to Jacques Lake in Jasper National Park, where forest trails lead to mountain views, quiet lakes, and a beautiful backcountry campsite.
Chaba Trail Backpacking Guide: One of Jasper’s Best Beginner Backpacking Trips – A detailed guide to backpacking the Chaba Trail with everything you need to know for one of Jasper’s best beginner-friendly backcountry trips.
Tonquin Valley Hike – What You Need to Know – A multi-day backpacking route in Jasper National Park passing Amethyst Lakes, open meadows, The Ramparts in prime wildlife habitat.
The Brazeau Loop Trail Hike in Jasper National Park – A challenging multi-day loop that showcases some of Jasper’s most remote terrain, from braided rivers and alpine passes to vast wilderness solitude.
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