Bujumbura, you ask? Where on earth is Bujumbura?
Although… if you are a regular reader of this blog, you are probably curious about the lesser known places in this world, and you already know.
Even though it has been stripped of its official capital status, Bujumbura is the largest city in Burundi, and although then president Pierre Nkurunziza moved the political capital to Gitega in 2019, it remains the country’s cultural, historical and economic hub.
It is a fairly small city – 127 km2, just a little bigger than Sheffield, and with ca. 375 000 residents. While I am here, it seems they are all out at once, all the time. Why? See box below.
Visa and accoms
Landing in Bujumbura, first on the agenda is visa on arrival. I spot a row of counters, and head that way. At the first one, I hand over my passport and answer a few questions: why am I here? how long am I staying in the country? All friendly. At the second counter, I hand over the fee (USD 40 for 3 days, USD 90 for 30 days). At the third, I get my passport back, now with a visa sticker in it, taking up an entire page.
It is a fairly smooth process. If you pay attention, that is. Not everyone does. Even though the counters are clearly marked Step 1, 2 and 3, several muzungu (Bantu for foreigner), go directly to Step 3. No go, folks. Back to step 1 with you.
I’m staying at Hotel Dolce Vita Resort, which feels more like a villa, and is perfectly fine, inadequate electricity and wifi notwithstanding. (If you absolutely need those things continuously, I expect the city’s 5-star hotels have some sort of back-up solution.)
Hotel Dolce Vita Resort in Bujumbura
Things to do in Bujumbura
Due to aircraft delays, I end up having only one full day to explore Bujumbura. Better get on with it, and for once, I come prepared. I tell Axel, the friendly receptionist, what I would like to see and do here.
Top of my list are the fabled Burundi drummers. I don’t have time to catch a performance at Gishora Drum Sanctuary, home of the Royal Drummers of Burundi. Gishora is two hours away, and that is when road conditions are good. But perhaps there are other drummer groups, closer to Bujumbura?
I would also like to wander along the shores of Lake Tanganyika, and in Rusizi National Park. Place de l’Indépendance and the Livingstone and Stanley Stone are on my list, too. I also want to take an early morning walk around town, soaking up a bit of atmosphere. Don’t need a guide for that, though.
So… can all this be sorted? Especially the drummers…?
Axel calls Diem, a friend of his. As it turns out, Diem runs a travel business, covering Burundi, as well as Rwanda and DR Congo.
Bujumbura fuel shortage
All over town, cars are parked randomly at or near petrol stations – by the pumps, in long queues, and at all angles on the queues.
The fuel shortage has lasted for more than three years. People are waiting for new supplies. The wait usually takes several days, sometimes weeks. And as it is illegal to sleep in the car, people walk home at night, and back the next day.
If you live near the DRC border, you can nip across to fill your tank. Some even make a business of it, filling jerry cans and selling the petrol at black market prices back in Burundi. Illegally, of course.
The shortage is a result of a lack of foreign currency to import petroleum. Burundi needs 30 million USD per month, but only generates 15 million from exports.
My hotel has no electricity 90% of the time during my stay. Solar power provides the bare necessities. For me, that means a hot night, and not being able to charge my phone and laptop. For people living their daily lives here, it is much more challenging. Public transport is practically at a stand-still. Bikes, motorbikes and tuk-tuks are not allowed in the city centre. People now have to walk to work or school. That can take several hours. Afterwards, the road home is equally long.
Another disastrous result is power cuts. To produce electricity you need fuel, and essential health services rely on fuel and power. A poignant example earlier this year, was a pushback in the country’s measles vaccination programme for children. Vaccines must be kept refrigerated.
At least the fuel shortage means less traffic on the roads, I hear. Looking for the silver lining is admirable. On the other hand – considering the present traffic, I shudder to think what it’s like with sufficient fuel.
The drummers in Bujumbura
Soon Diem appears with his colleague Eras. I’m eager to find out about the drummers. Are there any near here? Any performances this afternoon, by any chance? Or tomorrow morning?
Diem makes a few phone calls. We will go to Rusizi National Park. Drummers hang out there.
Usually, this group – one of 16 in the country – perform and practice in the national park, just inside the entrance. But not now. The park is flooded. Has been since July.
But that does not stop them. Off they go, fetching their drums, hauling them across the water. The drums look heavy – and they are: 47 kg!
Setting up just outside the gate, next to the road, where the ground is dry. All ready to play, just for me.
The performance is a lively one – with drummers and dancers, about 15 in all.
Some double as acrobats, doing high jumps, flexing strong muscles, and demonstrating some serious balancing skills.
The show soon catches the eyes and ears of passersby, and soon there are lots of us, all enjoying the impromptu performance and joining in the dance.
The show continues for about half an hour, and what a fabulous half hour that is.
Rusizi National Park
Rusizi River National Park is on my list, and I am already here. On the outskirts of Bujumbura, the park is home to various wildlife, including several species of bird – flamingoes and pelicans amongst them, and more dramatically, hippos and the fascinatingly terrifying Nile crocodile. I can’t wander around much, but a short walk is doable, if I don’t mind getting wet.
A flooded path and a makeshift wooden bridge leads me to some boats. They are used to take people out on the Rusizi River to look for the fearsome creatures. Crocs and hippos are best spotted in the morning.
The boats don’t look particularly sturdy. And from what I’ve read, the Nile crocodile is drawn to the sound of engines. Eeeek!
Lake Tanganyika
At the heart of Bujumbura is mighty Lake Tanganyika, one of the largest freshwater lakes in the world. 1,470 metres deep, it is also the world’s second deepest, behind Lake Baikal in Siberia. The lake is beautiful, and more importantly, central to the livelihood of many locals who depend on fishing and trade.
It’s peaceful out here along the lake. The only sound I hear, is waves lapping against rocks. Quite the antidote to the hustle and bustle of Bujumbura.
Next time in town, I would like to take a boat out on the lake at sunset.
Swimming here is safe, they say (although I can’t stop thinking about Nile crocodiles). But swimming is not the major draw for locals. They come to the lakeshore for social reasons: barbecues, relaxing, having fun with friends and family. Swimming is a side activity, which they may or may not bother with.
This lakeside cafe may look a bit chaotic, but World Beach Cafe is up and running.
Place de l’indépendance
In the middle of Place de l’indépendance, Bujumbura’s major square, is Le Monument de l’Indépendance (Independence Monument) commemorating Burundi’s independence from Belgium in 1962. It is an important symbol of national pride.
In another city centre park (apparently called the Triangle of Love, although I have not been able to verify that), are statues of two former leaders, including the ill-fated Prime Minister for two weeks, Ludovico Rwagasore.
The rains come suddenly and in a ‘get soaked through in 10 seconds’-kind of way
The Livingstone and Stanley Monument
On top of a hill in Mugere (ca 12 km from Bujumbura), is a lookout with wonderful lake views. This is where Dr. David Livingstone and journalist Henry Stanley spent a few days together in November 1871, just two weeks after they first met in Ujiji across the border in Tanzania, where Stanley uttered those now iconic words:
Spot the date on the stone?
Livingstone and Stanley were the first Europeans to visit this part of Africa, and the huge stone marks that occasion. Next to it is a tableau of their first meeting. It seems to be Bujumbura’s fave Insta spot. Might as well join in.
That’s my brief visit in Bujumbura in a nutshell. Would you like a taste of Burundi’s (former) capital and major city? These guys can help. And if you want to combine that with visiting the evocative neighbouring country Rwanda, or see gorillas in DR Congo, they can also help.
Bustling Bujumbura is a post from Sophie’s World