I’ll just start with the conclusion, shall I?
Vanuatu: Turquoise water beneath your feet, the delightful rush of waterfalls, and the unmistakable feeling that life moves a little slower here. Add handmade chocolate, the aroma of freshly roasted Tanna coffee – and because apparently one can never have too much novelty — a post office underwater.
Have I made you curious? That underwater post office, right?
2024 earthquake
My first impression of Port Vila, Vanuatu’s capital, is a mix of beautiful tropical scenery, friendly people, and real and near reminders of what this community has been through in the recent past.
On 17 December 2024, a magnitude-7.3 earthquake struck just offshore, causing widespread destruction throughout the city, killing 14 and injuring hundreds.
I’m told the building that housed the Billabong shop in the town centre was one of the hardest hit. It simply collapsed, and four of the confirmed deaths were attributed to this building. I’ve been in many Billabong shops over the years, and I can’t help but imagine what it must have been like, casually browsing kids’ surf shorts one minute, and in the next, the whole building coming down. It’s a chilling thought.
18 months on, and people are getting on with everyday life, resilient and optimistic. There’s something quite humbling about wandering around in Port Vila now. The earthquake is no longer just another disaster story in the news; being here makes the reality of it much harder to ignore.
OK, on to the lighter side of Vanuatu… if I haven’t scared you off!
I’m joining Eriko from Japan, and Nadia and Fyodor from Siberia, for a guided tour of Efate, the main island.
‘Shall we begin with chocolate?’ our guide asks!
Why, yes. That sounds like a very good place to start.
We set off for Gaston Chocolat. The name alone makes me think of one of my favourite films. You can probably guess which one, can’t you? Juliette Binoche, Judy Dench, Johnny Depp… I must have watched Chocolat at least five times.
Gaston Chocolat
The smell of chocolate hits as soon as we arrive.
Olivier Hernandez founded the chocolate factory in 2017, naming it after his grandfather, Gaston. The little factory is closely connected to Vanuatu’s cocoa-growing tradition, and the delicious choccies are made using cocoa grown in the islands.
Here at Gaston Chocolat, the humble cocoa bean is transformed into handcrafted chocolate. Olivier hands us hair nets, and takes us through the operation. Turning beans into the yumminess we know and love takes plenty of work, involving both humans and machines. And Olivier and his team must be doing something right, because their chocolates keep on winning awards and accolades.
We’re about to find out for ourselves. There are plenty of tempting varieties to try, and I’m happy to do my part – all in the name of research, of course.
My favourite
We’re not just tasting artisan chocolate; we’re getting an insight into Vanuatu’s agricultural traditions and the people turning local produce into something rather delicious.
I enjoy visiting places like this – history, culture, and food, all rolled into one. And yes, chocolate is food.
I leave with a few to take home. Although… home is still a few weeks away, and I’m hopping from one oh-so-very-hot Pacific island to another. Hmm. Surely it would be irresponsible to risk perfectly good chocolate melting in my bag? Best to deal with the problem immediately.
Mele Cascades
OK, time to get out into nature. After all that chocolate, a little hike seems like a sensible choice to burn off some of the calories.
Nature’s own swimming holes
We travel through lush tropical countryside into the interior of Efate, to Mele Cascades, one of the island’s best-known natural attractions.
It’s a hot and humid day, so the rainforest is a welcome change. All that lush tropical vegetation and the sound of rushing water feel so refreshing.
The trail winds through thick greenery alongside clear, cool water, passing natural pools and small cascades. The higher we climb, the more inviting the pools look – perfect for a cool dip.
While we have been busy walking, our guide has been busy setting up a gorgeous platter of fresh tropical fruit for us. Now that’s my kind of hiking reward!
Tanna coffee
Next up: coffee!
At the Tanna Coffee Roastery & Cafe, we get to see how Vanuatu’s locally grown coffee makes its journey from bean to cup. The beans are grown on the volcanic island of Tanna, then roasted and packaged here. We learn a little about the process and the coffee-growing traditions, and naturally, a tasting is essential. More research!
Now, I’m not really a big coffee drinker. I prefer caffe latte, essentially hot milk, with a bit of coffee thrown in. And they do serve those at the little cafe here. But I feel I should give the real thing a proper go, so I order a straightforward black coffee. And the verdict? I think FBI Special Agent Dale Cooper would approve – a damn fine cup of coffee.
Hideaway Island and the underwater post office
Just off the coast of Port Vila, about 5 minutes by boat, is Hideaway Island. I’m particularly excited about this one, having heard rumours about an underwater post office.
Hideaway Island has clear tropical water and colourful marine life, ideal for swimming and snorkelling. I could go on. But I’m here for the post office. And yes – it’s true! You can actually send mail from beneath the water!
Obviously, I have to give it a go, so I buy a few of the special waterproof cards at the little shop by the entrance. The shop lady then takes an eraser to the side of the card to write on, and rubs it so the pencil will stick better. It must be a pencil. A pen won’t work.
Writing legibly on underwater-proof postcards turns out to be a bit tricky. The big question is whether the pencil will stay on long enough for the postie to decipher the address, and get them into the right mailbox. We shall see. Apparently, delivery can take up to a month.
Now for the submarine part. But where exactly is this post office?
Out there by the platform, we are told. One-and-a-half metres underwater.
As you may know, I have a complicated love-fear relationship with water. There is absolutely no way I am ducking down to 1.5 metres, eyes open, trying to locate a post office at the bottom of the sea. So I enlist Fyodor to do the honours. He’s already kitted out in snorkelling gear, so off he goes.
It’s a little more challenging than expected, he says. But after two attempts, he manages to get the postcards into the underwater mailbox.
Success!
While Fyodor is under water, and Nadia is in the water, Eriko and I have lunch.
And so, apparently, does this kitty.
I love these quirky, unexpected experiences – the sort of thing you can’t quite believe is real until you’ve actually seen it. An underwater post office in Vanuatu? Absolutely! Thankfully, I don’t have to be the one to dive down and find it.
Poppy’s on the Lagoon
I am staying at Poppy’s on the Lagoon, and it turns out to be a great place to practice doing absolutely nothing. It’s surprisingly easy to slip into island time, even for someone as perpetually restless as me. As I sit here, drink in hand, looking out across the Erakor lagoon, I’m reminded that I have nowhere else I need to be. Not today.
One thing I’m noticing – and enjoying – about Vanuatu is the contrast. There are waterfalls, rainforest, chocolate, coffee, beautiful waterfront restaurants – all the things you’d expect from a tropical island escape. But there’s also a community that experienced a devastating earthquake less than two years ago, and is still rebuilding. It’s hard not to be moved by the resilience of the people here. Life goes on in this corner of the Pacific.
My visit in Vanuatu was short – only three days – and I have plenty more I want to see in this little country. I would like to spend some time on Tanna Island, and, even more, make it to Pentecost Island to see the land divers perform Naghol.
Naghol is a centuries-old tradition where local lads climb tall, rickety wooden towers, sometimes as high as 30 metres, with only vines tied around their ankles before leaping head-first towards the ground. The vines are carefully measured so they come incredibly close to the earth. Next level bungee jumping!
Would I make the leap? Not on your life. I’m not sure I’d even dare climb very high up the tower. In fact, now that I think about it, would I even be able to watch, without closing my eyes?
Vanuatu practicals
Getting there: Port Vila is easily reached by air from Aotearoa New Zealand, Australia, Fiji, and New Caledonia, with international flights connecting Vanuatu to the wider Pacific and beyond..
Where to stay: you’re spoilt for choice around Port Vila, with everything from budget stays to high-end resorts. Things are a little more challenging on the outer islands, where accommodation tends to be simpler. Family-run bungalows and small guesthouses seem to be the norm.
Gaston Chocolat is on Port Vila’s main street, opposite Fung Kuei and next to Etam. Visitors are welcome to stop by, although it’s a good idea to call ahead, to make sure someone is available to show you around.
Tanna Coffee Roastery & Cafe is on Devil’s Point Road, just outside Port Vila.
Hideaway Island: The ferry to the island leaves from Mele Beach, ca 15 min from Port Vila. Entry to the island costs 2000 VT (ca €14/US$17). The boat trip takes only a few minutes.
Money: Credit cards are widely accepted, particularly around Port Vila, but it’s still useful to have some Vanuatu vatu (VT) on hand for smaller purchases and various expenses. Some places also accept Australian dollars.
Nothing sponsored here, folks – no chocolate, no coffee, no Poppy’s, no waterproof postcards.
Vanuatu: chocolate, cascades, coffee – and an underwater post office is a post from Sophie’s World