VARA Sparkling Wines: A Playful Expression of New Mexico’s Winemaking Legacy

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VARA sparkling wine review featuring Brut, Rosé, Blanc de Blancs, and Zero Dosage from New Mexico’s historic winemaking roots.

There’s a certain anticipation that comes with opening a bottle of sparkling wine—that unmistakable pop of the cork, the rise of delicate bubbles, the promise of something celebratory. When I first encountered VARA Winery & Distillery, that anticipation was layered with curiosity. As a longtime admirer of Gruet Winery, I was eager to see how this New Mexico-rooted brand—guided by the same sparkling wine expertise—would interpret its own story.

What I discovered was a collection of wines that honor tradition while embracing something a bit more playful, expressive, and distinctly their own.

A Legacy Rooted in American Wine History

VARA’s story begins long before modern winemaking in the United States took shape. In fact, it traces back to 1629, when Spanish settlers planted mission grapes in what is now New Mexico—the birthplace of North American winemaking.

That heritage still echoes in VARA’s wines today, particularly through the inclusion of listán prieto, one of the original vinifera grapes brought to the New World. It’s a thoughtful nod to history, woven into wines otherwise crafted using the classic Méthode Champenoise—the same meticulous process used in Champagne.

At the center of it all is Laurent Gruet, whose influence is unmistakable. His background in French winemaking and his role in shaping American sparkling wine are evident in the precision and structure of VARA’s lineup. But here, there’s also a willingness to experiment—to push just slightly beyond expectation.

VARA Brut: A Bright and Balanced Introduction

The VARA Brut is where I began, and it sets the tone beautifully.

Blending chardonnay and pinot noir from California (Monterey and Lodi) with a small but meaningful addition of listán prieto from New Mexico, this wine feels both classic and quietly innovative. Aged for at least 18 months on the lees, it delivers the kind of fine, persistent bubbles you expect from a well-crafted sparkling wine.

On the palate, it opens with bright citrus and green apple, layered with pear and delicate floral notes. There’s a subtle creaminess that rounds it out, along with a gentle toastiness that lingers just enough to add depth without overpowering its freshness.

It’s an easy wine to reach for and works well with something light, like seafood, or something indulgent, like lobster mac and cheese. Crisp, elegant, and versatile, it’s a strong introduction to what VARA does well.

VARA Brut Rosé: Lively and Expressive

The VARA Brut Rosé brings a slightly different energy to the table—more vibrant, more playful, and just a bit more expressive. This is interesting because it is mostly a Lodi, CA, pinot noir, but the 10% Central Valley AVA New Mexico pinot noir grapes provide the high acidity and minerality with the crispness you find in the high desert. I sampled the 2023 harvest, and it was exceptional that year. The fruit was harvested in October and bottled in December. 

Its delicate rose-gold hue is matched by lively aromas of white raspberry, summer plum, and a hint of freshly baked shortbread. On the palate, it’s dry and well-balanced, with a round mouthfeel and bright acidity that keeps everything lifted.

Flavors of red currant, quince, and lemon thyme unfold gradually, leading to a finish that lingers, inviting another sip.

This is a wine that feels equally suited to a quiet evening or a more elaborate meal. It has enough structure to stand alongside richer dishes—think duck or mushroom pâté—but it’s just as enjoyable on its own, which is often the mark of a truly versatile sparkling wine. I sipped it with dinner one night, then finished it with dark chocolate and strawberries, and enjoyed it with both. 

VARAxLG Blanc de Blancs: Precision and Elegance

The VARAxLG Blanc de Blancs leans more firmly into classical territory, showcasing what chardonnay can achieve in the hands of skilled winemakers. I was surprised to discover this one is made from 100% Washington chardonnay fruit. The grapes were harvested in Washington in July and August 2020 and fermented in stainless tanks. The cuvée was bottled in early 2021. 

Aged for an impressive 33 months, this wine offers a refined, layered profile. Aromas of honeysuckle, Meyer lemon, and toasted almond rise from the glass, accompanied by a subtle minerality that adds a sense of place.

On the palate, there’s a touch of salinity that makes it especially compelling with food. Notes of green apple, raw honey, and toasted almond create a balance between brightness and depth. It’s a wine that rewards attention, offering something new with each sip.

This pairs well with poultry, but is great with spicy dishes. Since it comes from a New Mexico winemaker, think chiles and heat. I would imagine that oysters are a natural pairing, but I’m not an oyster fan. It was ideal with my shrimp cocktail and spicy cocktail sauce. 

VARA New Mexico Sparkling Brut 2023: A True Sense of Place

The New Mexico Sparkling Brut 2023 feels like the heart of VARA’s story poured into a glass. It’s a wine that doesn’t just nod to history, but fully embraces its roots. This features 100% New Mexico-grown grapes. 

Blending chenin blanc, listán prieto, and a touch of pinot meunier, this bottle leans into New Mexico’s unique terroir in a way that feels both grounded and expressive. There’s something especially compelling about knowing these grapes were handpicked under that expansive Southwestern sky that I’ve grown to love over the past 30 years. After picking, the grapes are transported to Albuquerque and go through a gentle, whole-cluster press. The sparkling wine is then carefully guided through fermentation and aging to preserve its character.

In the glass, it’s striking—a luminous golden hue with fine, persistent bubbles that immediately signal precision and care. The aromatics are bright and inviting, with zesty lemon and crisp green apple leading the way, followed by a gentle almond note and a hint of grapefruit that adds a touch of intrigue.

On the palate, it’s lively and refreshing, with a clean structure that makes it incredibly easy to enjoy. The balance is what stands out most. There’s brightness without sharpness, fruit without heaviness, and just enough texture to give it a satisfying presence.

This is the kind of sparkling wine that shines in those in-between moments—an afternoon gathering, a light starter before dinner, or a simple pause at the end of the day. It pairs beautifully with fresh, uncomplicated flavors. A crisp salad, a spread of light appetizers, or even something as playful as caviar on a potato chip all feel right at home here. 

My guilty pleasure is Lay’s Poppables (nope, not an endorsement), and I enjoy getting a handful of those little airy, salty crisps after I finish working for the day with a glass of bubbles. The VARA New Mexico Sparkling Brut was perfect for this. I really enjoyed it.  

What I love most about this wine is how clearly it reflects VARA’s identity. It’s rooted in place, shaped by thoughtful winemaking, and just a little unexpected in the best possible way.

VARA Zero Dosage: My Standout Favorite

And then there’s the VARA Zero Dosage—the bottle that, for me, truly captured the spirit of this collection.

Crafted from 100% Lodi Chardonnay and aged for 28 months, this wine is all about precision. With no added dosage, it delivers a clean, focused expression that feels both vibrant and intentional.

From the first sip, it reminded me of the Gruet Sauvage—one of my longtime favorites—but with a decidedly more playful edge that comes from the winemaker’s direct involvement in the wines. There’s a purity here that’s hard to ignore: bright acidity, crisp green apple, citrus blossom, and a distinct minerality that carries through to a refreshing, lingering finish.

It’s the kind of wine that pairs beautifully with food—salads, deviled eggs, even something as simple as radishes with butter and salt—but it’s just as compelling on its own.

For those who appreciate a drier, more structured sparkling wine, this is the bottle to seek out.

A Sparkling Collection with Personality

What stands out most about VARA is the balance it strikes.

There are clear parallels to the original Gruet wines I loved so much. Unsurprisingly so, given the shared winemaking expertise. But VARA brings a sense of playfulness that feels refreshing. These wines don’t take themselves too seriously, even as they deliver the structure and quality you’d expect from traditional methods.

Each bottle feels like a conversation between past and present, Old World and New World, precision and creativity.

Who These Wines Are For

VARA’s sparkling wines are an excellent choice for:

Sparkling wine lovers looking to explore beyond Champagne
Fans of Gruet who are curious about a fresh, slightly more expressive take
Food lovers who enjoy pairing wines with a range of dishes
Anyone seeking high-quality sparkling wines with a sense of place and history

Whether you’re celebrating something special or simply elevating an ordinary evening, these wines offer a thoughtful, well-crafted experience. But I always tell people not to wait for something special. After all, there’s never a bad time for bubbles. 

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