Wrangell–St. Elias is America’s largest national park. Tucked inside its 13 million acres sits McCarthy, one of the country’s most remote and rugged frontier towns.
From boomtown to ghost town and back again, McCarthy has lived many lives. Today, for the first time in nearly a century, travelers can step into a reborn community—one with a vibrant local spirit, stable infrastructure, unique accommodations, and more adventure than you’d ever expect at the literal end of the road.
See Wrangell-St. Elias Scenery
Photo Credit: Jenn Coleman.
Wrangell–St. Elias National Park is bigger than Switzerland, with taller mountains. Nearly two-thirds of the park is designated wilderness, making it the largest single protected wilderness area in the United States. The range holds more than 1,700 square miles of glacial ice, more than the rest of Alaska combined. Within the park’s borders lie some of the most significant glaciers on Earth, including Malaspina (North America’s largest piedmont glacier), Hubbard (Alaska’s longest tidewater glacier), and Nabesna (the world’s longest valley glacier).
For all its vastness, only two gravel roads enter the interior: the 60-mile McCarthy Road and the 43-mile Nabesna Road. McCarthy offers the most accessible vantage point—and the scenery is impossible to avoid. Wilderness surrounds you on all sides. Every direction is a postcard.
Soar on a Flight See
Photo Credit: Jenn Coleman.
Reaching McCarthy is part puzzle, part pilgrimage. The drive demands a capable vehicle and is usually off-limits for standard rental cars. Shuttles run from the end of the pavement at Chitina, but that’s still a four and a half hour drive from Anchorage.
Flying is an easier option to reach McCarthy. Regularly scheduled passenger service flies in from Gulkuna and Chitina as well, with options to charter flights from Anchorage. Once you arrive, the tiny McCarthy airport becomes your gateway—to town, to the outside world, and to flightseeing adventures you’ll never forget. Flightseeing reveals the true scale of the landscape. Even after 90 minutes in the air, you’ll walk away knowing you’ve only glimpsed a fraction of this wilderness.
The most popular tour—a 150-mile loop—takes you over river canyons, mining relics, private airstrips, and ancient marine sediment formations that feel strangely like Arizona. Watch for Dall sheep grazing on impossible slopes before crossing onto the Root and Kennicott glaciers. You’ll pass the towering Stairway Icefall, the world’s largest continuous icefall, and sweep past Kennecott before circling back toward McCarthy for a scenic, wind-assisted approach.
Visit Historic Kennecott
Photo Credit: Jenn Coleman.
In the summer of 1900, “Tarantula” Jack Smith and Clarence Warner spotted a patch of green on a hillside and assumed it was good sheep pasture. Instead, they discovered the richest concentration of copper ore ever found.
By 1909, production had begun, and by 1911 the 196-mile Copper River & Northwestern Railway was finished, connecting the new mining town to Cordova. Kennecott grew rapidly, boasting Alaska’s first x-ray machine and the world’s first ammonia leaching plant.
Just as quickly, it emptied. When the last train left on November 10, 1938, it carried the worker and the copper, but left nearly everything else behind. Rugged isolation preserved the site in near-perfect time-capsule condition.
Today, the National Park Service manages many of Kennecott’s historic buildings. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places and designated a National Historic Landmark, it’s the best surviving example of early 20th-century copper mining in the world.
Take a Kennecott Mill Tour
Photo Credit: Jenn Coleman.
The only way to explore the 14-story concentration mill is on a guided tour, and it’s absolutely worth it. After hiking to the top of the mill, you follow the entire path copper ore once traveled: from the aerial tram terminus to the crushing floors to the rail-loading platforms at the base.
Guides bring the story to life with tales of tenacity, ingenuity, and hardship in one of the harshest working environments imaginable. The mill isn’t just a structure, it’s the beating heart of Kennecott’s history.
Explore the Root Glacier
Photo Credit: Jenn Coleman.
Kennecott (with an “e”) takes its name from the Kennicott Glacier (with an “i”), a massive but debris-covered glacier often mistaken for a giant pile of mine tailings. The nearby Root Glacier, by contrast, is clean, bright, and full of dramatic features: blue pools, ice fins, waterfalls, crevasses, canyons, and moulins formed by the immense pressure where the two glaciers meet.
The Root Glacier is one of the most accessible glaciers in Alaska, requiring only a 5–7 mile round-trip hike once you reach Kennecott. Guided half-day tours are the most popular option and include crampons, essential safety gear, and expert insight into an ever-changing landscape. The best guides know exactly where to find the day’s most spectacular features. Pairing a glacier hike with a mill tour makes for a perfect full day in Kennecott.
Dive into McCarthy History
Photo Credit: Jenn Coleman.
McCarthy and Kennecott grew up together. McCarthy was the turnaround point for trains and the unofficial leisure district for the otherwise dry and disciplined mining town up the hill. Bootlegging, gambling, and prostitution flourished.
You can trace that history by visiting the McCarthy–Kennecott Historical Museum in the old depot or by staying at Ma Johnson’s Hotel, an authentic boarding house transformed into a living museum. Wander the historic cemetery to meet the legendary and notorious residents of McCarthy’s past—including Rose Levine-Silberg, whose unsolved murder still fuels local lore.
On summer weekends, don’t miss McCarthy Rose, a locally produced show at the Golden Saloon that tells the town’s story through Rose’s life and mysterious death.
Drink up the Golden Saloon
Photo Credit: Jenn Coleman.
True to its sin city roots, the Golden Saloon is the only saloon in a National Park and the center of evening entertainment in Wrangell St. Elias National Park. Not only is it the venue for McCarthy Rose, but it has live music, trivia nights, a full bar and all your pub food favorites. Visitors and locals alike come together to tip back a pint or two of suds and swap stories of adventure and discovery.
Savour Wilderness Gourmet
Photo Credit: Jenn Coleman.
The combination of history and luxury makes McCarthy a unique basecamp for accessible adventure. Part of that equation is delicious food, and here are some of our favorites
The Salmon & Bear (McCarthy): Our personal favorite. With a Wine Spectator “Award of Excellence” and a menu focused on local ingredients—like wild-caught Copper River Red Salmon—it’s a culinary surprise in the middle of the wilderness. No wonder it was just featured in National Geographic Traveller Magazine: Culinary Collection.
The Golden Saloon (McCarthy): I’m convinced that the best cheeseburger and fries are earned after a full day of adventure. Come for the food, stay for the entertainment. It’s an experience that must be experienced.
The Potato (McCarthy): A beloved local staple known for scratch-made Alaskan comfort food and legendary hand-cut curly fries. Their motto says it all—why be fancy when you can be delicious?
Kennicott Glacier Lodge (Kennecott): Offers a nightly fixed plated dinner featuring fresh-baked bread, salad, entrées like halibut or filet mignon, sides, and homemade dessert.
Meetza Wagon (Kennecott): Slow-cooked meat specialties served with glacier views that are almost as delicious as the food itself.
Take a Hike
Photo Credit: Jenn Coleman.
When you’re in the middle of the largest National Park, the hard part isn’t finding a trail, it’s choosing one. Here are two options to consider.
Easy:
From McCarthy, follow the wagon road toward Kennecott and turn left before Blackburn Cabin to reach the Kennicott Glacier Trail. The 4-mile out-and-back to the toe of the glacier is mellow and scenic. Don’t forget to stop by the old McCarthy cemetery.
Hard:
For a lung-and-leg burner, the Bonanza Mine Trail climbs roughly 4,000 feet in 8–9 miles from Kennecott. The rewards: sweeping valley views that rival the Grand Canyon for sheer volume. AllTrails puts it best: “Strong fitness, steady footing, and alpine awareness are crucial.” Also crucial—timing your descent so you don’t miss the last shuttle back to McCarthy.
Make a Splash White Water Rafting
Photo Credit: Jenn Coleman.
Fed by the meltwater of the Kennicott Glacier, the McCarthy River begins at a stunning glacial lake before tumbling under the iconic footbridge. A gravel road traces much of the river’s west bank, making logistics ideal, except for the cold, fast water and remote location.
That’s where McCarthy River Tours shines. Their guides are excellent, their gear (including drysuits) is top-notch, and their half-day combination trip—flatwater on the lake followed by a Class II/III run—is pure fun.
Drive the Road to McCarthy
Photo Credit: Jenn Coleman.
The Muppets say getting there is half the fun. Maybe not when “there” is McCarthy—but the drive is part of the adventure. The 60-mile gravel McCarthy Road demands patience, preparation, and a sense of humor. Here’s the formula:
Step 1: Rent the right vehicle. Most car rental companies ban gravel roads, which is why we went with Alaska 4×4 Rentals. We never needed 4WD, but the clearance was comforting.
Step 2: Fill up in Kenny Lake or Chitina. A 120-mile out-and-back needs at least a half-tank with margin.
Step 3: Take your time. The roadside scenery is phenomenal—from Anchorage to Chitina to McCarthy. Our best moose sighting happened on McCarthy Road (though we were too excited to take a photo—classic).
Step 4: Plan for parking. Google sometimes lies at the end of the road. You cannot drive across the private bridge into town. Park at the footbridge and either walk the short ¾ mile into McCarthy or take a shuttle. The Copper Town Shuttle has a free loop from footbridge to McCarthy that leaves every 30 minutes from the footbridge
Gateway to the Backcountry
Photo Credit: Jenn Coleman.
McCarthy is the gateway town to America’s largest wilderness area. It has everything you’ll need for a fully supported trip from backcountry guides to bush pilots. St Elias Alpine Guides has a fully trained staff for backcountry adventures from hiking to paddling, including lessons. Wrangell Mountain Air has skilled bush pilots who can land you in the wilderness for a true backcountry camping experience…and, just as importantly, pick you up again. In McCarthy, the end of the road is just the beginning.
Chill Out
Photo Credit: Jenn Coleman.
With so many adventures, it’s easy to forget to slow down. Grab a surprisingly good espresso at the McCarthy Center Store. Sit with the history that surrounds you. Step outside at night to see the stars blaze across a truly dark sky. Then wander into the Golden Saloon and swap stories with colorful locals or fellow wanderers. Sometimes the best thing to do here is absolutely nothing.
Parting Thoughts on McCarthy
Photo Credit: Jenn Coleman.
McCarthy has transformed from a forgotten ghost town into a fully realized destination. The McCarthy Lodge Resort offers one-of-a-kind lodging at Ma Johnson’s and the Kate Kennedy House, plus budget-friendly rooms at the Lancaster’s Backpacker Hostel. There are enough restaurants to keep you full for a week, and enough adventures to keep you busy for a month. That said, lodging and fine dining options are scarce so make your reservations early.
If you’re short on time, the essentials are:
Flightseeing
The Kennecott Mill Tour
A Root Glacier hike
You can squeeze those into two days, especially if you pair the mill tour with the half-day glacier hike. But with McCarthy’s remoteness, rich history, and irresistible charm, we recommend staying longer. This is the kind of place that rewards those who linger.