The twin Caribbean islands of Saint Kitts and Nevis are probably best known for their beaches and as a stop on a cruise ship itinerary, but John and I chose to visit for very different reasons. Both islands are volcanic, with peaks you can hike, and lush tropical rainforest. The islands appealed to us with their fascinating history, nature everywhere you look, wonderful local restaurants, and places to stay that feel unique rather than like cookie-cutter resorts.
We spent most of our time exploring the quieter side of St. Kitts and Nevis. That included hiking to the crater of Mount Liamuiga on St. Kitts, checking out rarely used trails on Nevis, laughing at the antics of the green vervet monkeys, exploring historic plantations and Fort Charles, and eating some memorable meals in beautiful settings on both islands.
We split our time between St. Kitts and Nevis over a week (flights from Toronto only arrive once a week!) and focused on experiences that felt authentic to us. We hired a local driver on Nevis to show us the sights, sought out restaurants recommended by locals, and spent many a happy hour simply swimming and reading at the near empty hotel pools.
The following are some of our favourite things to do in St. Kitts and Nevis, experiences that go well beyond the typical cruise-ship itinerary.
Pinney’s Beach on Nevis is a great place to hang out
Best Things to Do in St. Kitts and Nevis (Quick Picks)
Best hike: Mount Liamuiga
Best gardens St. Kitts: Romney Manor
Best gardens Nevis: Golden Rock Inn
Best historic site St. Kitts: Brimstone Hill Fortress National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Best historic site Nevis: Fort Charles
Best wildlife experience: Green vervet monkeys
Best town to explore: Charlestown for colonial history, Basseterre for historic sites, Georgian-era architecture, local markets
Where are St. Kitts and Nevis?
The two-island country of St. Kitts and Nevis is located in the Lesser Antilles of the Caribbean Sea. You can see from the map below that the islands are immediately west of Antigua and Barbuda and northwest of Montserrat and Guadeloupe.
We flew to Basseterre on St. Kitts from Toronto in about five hours. From Miami the islands are 3 hours and 15 minutes away by air.
Map of the Best Things to Do in St. Kitts and Nevis
I’ve pinpointed most of the places we visited over a week on St. Kitts and Nevis. Generally we stayed away from the most touristy excursions.
Best Time to Visit St. Kitts and Nevis
December/January and July/August: Best for festivals
December to April: Best months for hikes on St. Kitts and Nevis
February to May: Dry weather and comfortable temperatures
May and June: Good weather, fewer people, lower prices
August to October: Avoid – hurricane season and more rainfall
June to August: Mango season
July to November: Fewest crowds
Sunset over St. Kitts
Best Things to Do in St. Kitts
This is my idea of the best things to do on St. Kitts – but I think we are unusual – in what we prefer to do.
Hike Mount Liamuiga Volcano
One of the reasons we chose to visit St. Kitts is because it’s a volcanic island with a straightforward 6.2 km return hike to the Mount Liamuiga volcano crater over an elevation gain of 646 metres. While most people do it as a guided option with Viator or a local company, we had no problem doing it on our own. We organized a taxi through our hotel and were up and down in under four hours.
We had done similar hikes on other Caribbean Islands – including a hike to Boiling Lake in Dominica and a steep hike up Gros Piton in St. Lucia. Both experiences were highlights of our visits to the islands. The hot, steep, sweaty hike up Mount Liamuiga Volcano was in the same vein – a sense of accomplishment for doing it.
Hot and sweaty on the crater rim of Mount Liamuiga
Look for the Famous Green Vervet Monkeys
It seems that there are more green vervet monkeys than islanders on St. Kitts. They were introduced about 300 years ago – and estimates now suggest that their population is anywhere between 37,000 and 60,000.
Farmers consider them a pest as they destroy crops like mango and watermelon – but tourists love them. We saw a lot of them when we stayed at Belle Monte Sanctuary Resort. We had an outdoor bathroom there that we loved – but we didn’t dare leave anything out for fear the monkeys would grab it.
They are fun and engaging to watch but I understand the farmer’s perspective too.
A green vervet monkey at Belle Mont Sanctuary Resort on St. Kitts
Stay at Belle Mont Sanctuary Resort (and go for a swim)
On St. Kitts we stayed at Belle Mont Sanctuary Resort. I chose it because its location was off the beaten path and quite close to Mount Liamuiga. I didn’t appreciate until we got there how private our room would be – looking out to the distant Caribbean Sea – with monkeys leaping from tree to tree in front of us. It also had a unique outdoor bathroom we both loved.
Another highlight for me was their pool. I love to swim – and except for about 10 minutes over three days, I had the entire pool to myself. The view from it was also picture-postcard perfect.
The food at the restaurant exceeded expectations – but the wait time for service was slow by North American standards.
Lounge chairs beckon by the gorgeous pool at Belle Monte Sanctuary Resort on St. Kitts
We loved our private outdoor bathroom at our hotel on St. Kitts
Enjoy the Local Restaurant Scene
Arthur’s
One night we took a taxi to Arthur’s from our hotel in St. Kitts – just to change things up. I’m so glad we did as Arthur’s – with its wonderful location beside the ocean – serves delicious food at reasonable prices. My plantain and Cajun shrimp was one of the best meals I had all week. Arthur’s also serves pizzas, rotis, wraps, burgers, curries, seafood platters, spare ribs, and a whole lot more.
Loved our meal by the ocean at Arthur’s on St. Kitts
A delicious meal of Cajun shrimp, rice and plantain at Arthur’s by the ocean in St. Kitts
Getting Between St. Kitts and Nevis
There are boats, ferries and water taxis to get you between St. Kitts and Nevis. There is a SKN transit app to download – but it’s easier just to ask your hotel for their recommendation.
When you leave Nevis be prepared to pay a Port Authority tax of about $2EC or US$0.75.
Water taxi
Water taxis can be hired for travel from Reggae Beach or Park Hyatt in St. Kitts for arrival in Oualie Bay on Nevis with regular service throughout the day. We used Blu Water coming and going. It only takes about 10 – 12 minutes each way. Prices are in the range of $US 20-25 per person one way.
Ferry
The Sea Bridge Car Ferry connects Major’s Bay in St. Kitts to Cades Bay in Nevis, one of two options if you’re traveling with a car. There is also the larger iConnect Car Ferry that connects Nevis’ Charlestown Pier and Major’s Bay in St. Kitts. Allow 25 – 45 minutes on the car ferries.
There is also a passenger ferry with multiple departure times daily between Basseterre and Charlestown that takes 25 – 45 minutes.
There are several water taxis you can take from Nevis to St. Kitts
Take the Scenic Boat Ride Between St. Kitts and Nevis
It’s only about about 4 km to get across the channel from St. Kitts to Nevis. It took us around 10 minutes. I loved the boat ride for the views of both islands from the water.
It was also a study in contrasts as the beach in St. Kitts was packed with cruise ship passengers, and when we got out at Oualie Beach in Nevis, it felt very quiet by comparison. And that feeling never left us while on Nevis.
Our water taxi left from Reggae Beach
Blu Waves water taxi to Nevis from St. Kitts
How Many Days Do You Need in St. Kitts and Nevis?
Nevis is a quieter island than St. Kitts- but popular to visit as a day trip, whereas St. Kitts is geared more to the tourist.
3 Days in St. Kitts
We spent three nights on St. Kitts. I was happy to climb the volcano, keep my eye out for monkeys and relax but the one thing I wish we’d done was a catamaran snorkeling tour
Mount Liamuiga hike
Look for monkeys
Relax at the pool at Belle Mont Sanctuary Resort
Take the St. Kitts Train around the island
Do a catamaran snorkeling tour
2 – 3 Days in Nevis
Climb Nevis Peak
Visit Alexander Hamilton Museum
Wander Golden Rock Gardens
Visit Fort Charles
Go to Pinney’s Beach
Dine at a different restaurant every night
Why Nevis is Worth Visiting
If you like less touristy islands without the crowds, then you’ll enjoy Nevis. It’s quieter and greener than St. Kitts with fewer big hotels – though it does have a Four Seasons and a golf course.
Nevis is still an unspoiled gem featuring a volcanic landscape, tropical rainforest, historic sugar plantations, white sand beaches like Pinney’s Beach – and it’s the birthplace of Alexander Hamilton, one of the founding fathers of the US.
Best Things to Do in Nevis
These are some ideas of things to do on Nevis. I would have enjoyed a day on the beach – but my husband isn’t a fan. I feel like we got a good sense of the island by hiring a local woman to drive us around with stops over about four hours.
Hire a Driver and Tour the Island
Through our hotel we were able to hire a driver for the morning to see the sights. As much as I enjoyed hanging out by the pool and admiring the botanical gardens at the Golden Rock Inn, I didn’t want to leave feeling like I’d missed something.
Visit the ruins of Fort Charles
Located on the southwest coast of Nevis, the ruins of Fort Charles are all that is left of an abandoned British Fort from 1628. The fort was built to protect the city of Charlestown and its harbour – mostly because of the lucrative sugar trade. Nevis was more profitable to the British than all the other North American colonies combined.
Now it’s a scenic and peaceful place to wander. Enjoy great views across to St. Kitts and north to Charlestown.
The Fort Charles ruins frame Nevis Peak
Cannon pointing out to sea from Fort Charles on Nevis
View to Nevis Peak from the Fort Charles ruins
Wander the Streets of Charlestown
It’s worth spending an hour wandering the streets of downtown Charlestown and poking into some of the shops and markets along the way. It’s a colourful town with some ornate old buildings. We stopped for ice cream – pistachio for me, marvelled at the amount of locally grown ginger in the market, and wandered along a coastal walkway admiring the views over to St. Kitts.
A colourful town square in Charlestown
A pistachio ice cream enjoyed against a colourful Charlestown backdrop
Ginger is grown on Nevis
Visit the Alexander Hamilton Museum
Alexander Hamilton, one of the founding fathers of the United States of America, was born on the island of Nevis. The museum – next door to the Museum of Nevis History, is located in a handsome restored 17th century Georgian-style house. Visit the museum to learn more about the man and the history of Nevis in an intimate environment.
Statue of Alexander Hamilton outside the museum that goes by his name
Relax at Nevis Hot Springs
I’m not one to pass up an opportunity to visit hot springs. The Nevis Hot Springs surprised me by their high temperature – but then I looked over to nearby Nevis Peak – and realized just how close I was to the dormant volcano, the source of the geothermally heated water.
You don’t need that long for the hot springs but it is a relaxing stop and especially worthwhile if you are suffering from muscle tension (who isn’t these days) and arthritis. It’s $US 5 per person to get into the Nevis hot springs.
These hot springs on Nevis are HOT!
Explore Nevis Nature
Wander the Beautiful Gardens at Golden Rock Inn
There are two botanical gardens on Nevis – one at the Golden Rock Inn and the Botanical Gardens of Nevis set on five acres near the Montelier Plantation Nevis. On the advice of our driver, we gave the smaller gardens a pass.
With four nights at Golden Rock Inn we had plenty of time to appreciate the trees, shrubs, plants, and beautiful hardscape spread across the 40 acres of grounds where the inn sits at about 1,000 feet above sea level. The gardens were designed by Raymond Jungles of Miami together with the inn’s artist owners, Helen Marden and Brice Marden, creating a series of both intimate spaces and larger garden areas to explore.
The upside of staying here was the interesting lighting at night and all the birds that visited on account of the plants.
Gardens at the Golden Rock Hotel on Nevis are exquisitely maintained
It was a thrill to see the colourful purple-throated carib
Go Hiking on Nevis
Our plan had been to hike to Nevis Peak but a fog-shrouded mountain and a slippery trail had other plans for us. Instead we hiked a trail called “The Source” starting from Golden Rock Inn. It follows a centuries-old cast-iron pipeline through dense tropical rainforest over slippery ground to a series of small waterfalls.
We turned back about a half kilometre shy of our goal thanks to steep dropoffs beside the narrow muddy trail. I didn’t fancy getting pierced by a piece of bamboo – and the trail looked seriously dodgy in places thanks to a massive downpour. Still it was an interesting hike through the rainforest – with no biting insects to bother us.
Ocean view from The Source hike starting from the Golden Rock Inn
Seriously slippery trails beside a dropoff hidden by thick vegetation on “The Source” hiking trail
Historic Plantation Estates to Visit
Many of Nevis’s former sugar plantations have been thoughtfully restored and now operate as boutique inns or restaurants. Even if you’re not staying overnight, they’re worth visiting for their historic buildings, sprawling gardens, and sense of stepping back into the island’s colonial past.
Massive fig tree at the entrance to Montpelier Nevis
A handsome and historic sugar mill at Montpelier Plantation on Nevis
Where to Eat in Nevis
Drift Restaurant + V Gallery
Drift Restaurant on Nevis enjoys an amazing location adjacent to the water with a view over to St. Kitts. It’s also across the road from the local airport so you may see the odd plane coming in to land. The restaurant itself is in a beach house style building with original artwork on the walls. They serve lunch and dinner and reservations are a must.
It’s a great place to sit back with a glass of wine or a cocktail and watch the sun go down. Food is excellent, service slow.
Sunset view from the Drift Restaurant and Gallery on Nevis
Golden Rock Inn
Visitors to Nevis make a point of enjoying a meal at the Golden Rock Inn. Since we stayed here, we had breakfast every day along with a couple of dinners. I love the ambiance of the inn – looking out at the plants and water features. Their choice of colourful dining chairs just added to the experience.
The food and service here is excellent. I was a big fan of their crab cakes and green curried shrimp.
I loved the colourful accent pieces in the dining room at the Golden Rock Inn
Bananas
We were told we must visit Bananas – and I’m so glad we did. It offers tropical treetop dining above the historic Hamilton estate, by way of a torchlit pathway. It’s got a friendly vibe – and an interesting menu with lots of favourites like curries, back ribs, fresh fish, lobster, Buddha bowls, gnocchi and an excellent coconut cake for desert. Make a reservation for lunch or dinner.
The entrance to Bananas
Hermitage Plantation Inn
While we didn’t eat here, I understand that local cuisine in a 350-year-old house is the feature. I loved the setting when we visited the plantation and would happily show up here for dinner.
Looking out to the gardens from the Hermitage Plantation Inn
Where to Stay on St. Kitts and Nevis
Best Place to Stay on St. Kitts
Belle Monte Sanctuary Resort
We treated ourselves to three nights at the Belle Monte Sanctuary Resort.
I loved swimming laps in this pool at the Belle Monte Sanctuary Resort
Best Place to Stay on Nevis
Golden Rock Inn
We stayed for four nights at the Golden Rock Inn in the 19th century Sugar Mill – a stand alone two-story building. Breakfast is included with all rooms and their gardens and dining room are reason enough to visit alone.
The entrance to the old sugar mill – a two story hotel room at Golden Rock Inn
Hermitage Plantation Inn
At Hermitage Nevis in Figtree Parish you’ll find historic charm, comfortable accommodations, a swimming pool, and well-kept gardens. Breakfast comes with the room.
Cabins at the Hermitage Plantation Inn
Montpelier Nevis
Montpelier Nevis – a boutique hotel sits within one of the island’s original 18th-century sugar plantations, surrounded by 60 acres of lush tropical gardens with views of Nevis Peak and the Caribbean. It’s got a nice pool, a fig tree at the entrance that could tell a story or two – and the option to visit their beach, a 15-minute drive away.
View to the pool area at Montpelia Plantation Nevis
Final thoughts
John and I thoroughly enjoyed out week-long stay on St. Kitts and Nevis – and feel like it was the right amount of time. Our accommodation and the food exceeded our expectations and we were happy with the variety of activities we did – especially the hike up Mount Liamuiga.
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