Escape the crowds and experience Ontario’s backcountry at its quietest. Frontenac Provincial Park, just 40 km north of Kingston, offers peaceful lakes, scenic hiking trails, and canoe routes where you can truly enjoy nature – loons, whip-poor-wills, turtles, and more.
In May, John and I spent a week canoeing and hiking through its chain of quiet, interconnected lakes. We stayed two nights at three backcountry campsites, giving us full days to explore on foot and see the park from a completely different perspective.
The park is home to 22 pristine lakes, 120 kilometres of hiking trails and 54 backcountry sites across 19 locations. Wildlife is diverse with roughly 25 species of mammals (from tiny voles to the occasional moose) and more than 170 species of birds. Here’s what you can expect on an unforgettable multi-day canoeing and hiking trip in Frontenac Provincial Park.
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Campsite 19 from the water in Frontenac Provincial Park
Where is Frontenac Provincial Park?
Frontenac Provincial Park is easy to access from Ottawa, Toronto and Montreal. It’s about a 2.25-hour drive from Ottawa and just shy of four hours from both Montreal and Toronto. We broke up the drive from Toronto with a overnight stay in Prince Edward County, about an hour and 20 minutes away.
Campsite 16 on Clearwater Lake in Frontenac Provincial Park
Why visit Frontenac?
Founded in 1974, Frontenac Provincial Park is a 5,200-hectare natural environment semi wilderness park that is open year-round. It’s world renowned for its biodiversity – with its location in the Frontenac Arch, a part of the Canadian Shield.
The landscape is diverse with forests, wetlands, and rocky slopes. It’s the home of a large assortment of plants, snakes (9 species), birds, turtles, insects, and more. It also has a rich cultural history with the Indigenous People of Canada using the area for hunting, fishing and food gathering in the past.
The park also boasts 120 km of well-signed hiking trails, numerous canoe routes that are ideal for beginner paddlers, and a history of mica mining, logging and old homestead farms. And in winter you can hike, snowshoe or cross-country ski.
Frontenac Provincial Park headquarters where you can pick up permits and maps
How to get reservations and backcountry camping permits for Frontenac Park
Purchase a map of Frontenac Provincial Park online or in person in the park – as it shows the canoe routes, campsites and hiking trails.
Camping reservations – You can book campsites online or by phone (1-888-668-7275 in North America or 1- 519-826-5290 outside North America) up to five months in advance of your arrival date. The distance to campsites on foot is anywhere between 20 minutes and three hours – so choose accordingly. If you’re canoeing, factor in the time for portages.
Campsites are reservable year-round in Frontenac Provincial Park. Reservations are necessary over school breaks and in peak season – late June until September.
There is no need to check into the park office if you’ve got a backcountry reservation. You can head to your campsite – but carry a copy of the reservation confirmation letter.
Campsite facilities: Every campsite comes with a tent pad or platform, fire-pit, picnic table (except Campsite 16), outhouse, and food locker. With most campsites clustered together, you can usually see the neighbouring campsite. There are some one-off campsites if you prefer more privacy.
Campsite 15 on Big Salmon Lake is a beauty
Where to rent a canoe near Frontenac Provincial Park
Frontenac Outfitters located near the entrance of Frontenac Provincial Park is the place to rent a canoe or kayak. They also have foam pieces you can put on top of your car so you can transport the canoe to the starting point of your Frontenac canoeing trip.
If you’ve forgotten camping equipment, camping food and meals gas for your stove, clothes – basically anything you might need out on a trip, you’ll find it here.
Putting our lightweight rental canoe on top of our rental car at Frontenac Outfitters
Route Overview: A 7-day loop canoe and hiking trip in Frontenac Provincial Park
We stayed at the following three campsites.
Campsite #17 on Big Clear Lake
Very private
Lots to explore by canoe between Big Clear and Devil Lake
Great campsite for hiking; we did a 24 km hike that took us out and back via the Small Slide Lake Loop
Campsite #18 on Clear Lake
Roomy and far more private than the other campsites on the lake.
Great base for hiking
Campsite #6D on Little Salmon Lake
Fine but without a platform, we were in mud.
Not much privacy but good views
Perfect place to stay for a quick exit at the end of the trip.
Explored Birch Lake from here by canoe as a day trip
The start of our canoeing and hiking adventure in Frontenac Provincial Park
Day one: Canoeing Big Salmon Lake to Campsite 17 via Labelle and Big Clear Lakes
This was easy canoeing compared to most canoe trips we do – like a week long one we did in remote Woodland Caribou Provincial Park. It’s ideal for beginners as there are lots of campsites, even along Big Salmon Lake, if you want to avoid portages.
Started at the western end of Big Salmon Lake
Canoed the length of Big Salmon Lake, did a 491 m portage to Labelle Lake, followed by a short paddle across Labelle Lake and a final 190 m portage to Big Clear Lake.
Several kilometres of beautiful canoeing following the shoreline to a point and into a big bay on the left. Campsite 17 halfway down the bay on the south side.
Starting our canoe trip on Big Salmon Lake in Frontenac Provincial Park
Arrival at the portage to Labelle Lake from Big Salmon Lake
Portaging from Big Salmon Lake to Labelle Lake
Almost rounding the point on Big Clear Lake on route to campsite #17
Arrival at Campsite 17 on Big Clear Lake
Campsite #17 on Big Clear Lake in Frontenac Provincial Park
It was unseasonably cold in May when we visited Frontenac Park so what a treat to have a proper fire
Our food locker at campsite # 17 on Big Clear Lake
A pretty view across Big Clear Lake
Day 2: Hiking from Campsite 17 to North Slide Junction + Small Slide Lake Loop
Best day of the week with sunshine and blue skies.
Did a 24 km hike that included an out and back from campsite 17 to North Slide Junction + the 9-km Small Slide Lake Loop
Highlights included a gorgeous view down the length of Big Salmon Lake, the view of tiny Mink Lake, fresh spring green foliage, numerous clumps of colourful columbine and turtles galore
At southern end of Small Slide Lake Loop hopped on the Rideau Trail for a short stint.
Halfway up Slide Lake take a break at a couple of picturesque overlooks
Pretty hiking just out of Campsite 17
On route to Small Slide Lake
Airy viewpoint overlooking Big Salmon Lake
Pretty forest near Campsite 5 in Frontenac Park
The Mink Lake lookout – though the lake is hard to see
Arrival at North Slide Junction
Pretty section on the Small Slide Lake Loop in Frontenac Provincial Park
Photos of Campsite 5 and the Small Slide Lake Loop
One of the good views of Slide Lake
Little islands in Slide Lake seen from The Whales Back
Day 3: Canoeing from Campsite 17 through Black Lake to Campsite 18 on Little Clear Lake in Frontenac Provincial Park
An easy paddle and two portages (663 m + 503 m) to reach Little Clear Lake
Giant campsite with no one around
Hiked part of the Hemlock Lake and Lynch Lake loops
Beautiful spring flowers (wild phlox especially) around, lots of mud, no people
Canoeing from Big Clear to Black Lake in Frontenac Provincial Park
Portaging to Black Lake from Big Clear Lake in Frontenac Park
Arrival at Campsite 18 on Little Clear Lake in Frontenac Provincial Park
Our roomy campsite #18 on Little Clear Lake
Lots of variety on the Hemlock Loop hike
John walking through wild phlox on the Hemlock Lake Loop
Park like setting on part of the Hemlock Loop hike
Day 4: Day hike that includes the Gibson Lake Loop, Tetsmine Lake Loops and part of Hemlock Lake Loop
A full day of hiking covering approximately 22 km
Saw no one on any of the hikes
Passed the Rathkopf Fen – the only one in the park on the Gibson Lake Loop
Stopped to check out mica mines on the Testsmine Lake Loop
A study in green hiking the Gibson Lake Loop in May
The Crab Lake Mine – just some old pits at this stage of the game
John holding some pieces of mica – biotite and muscovite
Me on the Tetsmine Lake Loop on a cold spring day in Frontenac Provincial Park
Wet, muddy hiking on the Gibson Lake and Tetsmine Lake Loop
Day 5: Canoeing from Campsite 18 to Campsite 6D on Little Salmon Lake
A very short paddle across Little Clear Lake to a 856 m portage – and arrival at our campsite on Little Salmon Lake
A miserable day with lots of rain
Opted to hike the trail back to the launch site, get in the car and buy John a new sleeping pad as his had a hole we couldn’t fix
Fortified with a latte and brownie – then hiked back to camp and started a fire to warm up
The final part of the portage from Little Clear Lake to Little Salmon Lake in Frontenac Park
Our campsite at 6D is a mid of a mud pool on a rainy day
Our campsite set up at 6D on Little Salmon Lake on a rainy day
Little Salmon Lake with ominous clouds
Day 6: Portage over to Birch Lake and explore by canoe
Canoed across Little Salmon Lake
Portaged 1,138 m one way from Little Salmon Lake to Birch Lake
Over many hours canoed from the portage south to campsite #7 (not my favourite as it was dark), then hugged the north shore of Birch Lake on route to Kingsford Lake and campsites 11 and 19.
Headed back – stopping to survey campsite 8 (my favourite on this section), and then repeated the portage back to Little Salmon Lake
Beautiful sunset and lots of loon action
The 1138 metre portage from Birch Lake to Little Salmon Lake
Planning our canoe route on Birch Lake in Frontenac Provincial Park
Finished the portage from Little Salmon Lake to Birch Lake and getting ready to canoe Birch Lake
Heading southwest on Birch Lake towards Campsite #7
Canoeing on Birch Lake near Campsite #8
Very pretty canoeing on Birch Lake in Frontenac Provincial Park
Sunset over Little Salmon Lake
Day 7 in Frontenac Provincial Park: Canoe to the launch site on Big Salmon Lake
Started with a short paddle down the length of Little Salmon Lake
A 974 m portage to Big Salmon Lake and a very short paddle back to the launch site
Excellent recycling options – even for fuel cannisters at the launch site
Our final portage in Frontenac Provincial Park to Big Salmon Lake
You can recycle everything after your Frontenac canoe trip including used fuel containers
A Quieter Experience Compared to Algonquin
Paddling and hiking in Frontenac Provincial Park is quieter than Algonquin, with fewer crowds on lakes and trails. You can enjoy peaceful mornings with loons, and have entire lakes or trail sections to yourself. Canoe trips here feel relaxing – perfect for beginners or anyone wanting a quieter backcountry experience
We had Little Salmon Lake to ourselves in May
Wildlife and Birds
We didn’t see a lot of wildlife – one deer and a handful of turtles. But the birding was excellent since we were there over the spring migration. The highlight for me was hearing the Eastern whip-poor-wills and loons.
The only white-tailed deer we saw was near Small Slide Lake
We did see a lot of turtles when we were hiking the southeastern part of Frontenac Provincial Park
What to Pack for Canoe-Hiking Trips
In spring you need to be ready for all types of weather. Most of the trip was on the chilly side – and one day was just plain miserable.
My paddlers checklist – with 100 items – give or take gets into the details. The most important items for our chilly spring trip included the following:
Quick dry clothes – and lots of layers including long-sleeved merino wool tops, a down vest, a down jacket, and a bomb-proof raincoat along with a pair of gloves
A tarp
An axe, fire starter, lighter
Water purification tablets or filter (especially with beaver dams around)
Do not fill water bottles anywhere near a beaver dam
Navigating portages and trails in Frontenac Provincial Park
The park map is a tremendous resource as it lists the length of every portage and hiking trail. Combine that with excellent trail signage on the ground in the park, and you’ll find navigation to be very straightforward.
Trail – whether for hiking or portaging in Frontenac Provincial Park are very well signed
Weather, bugs, hazards, and trail conditions in Frontenac Provincial Park in spring
Hypothermia – With a combination of cold but not freezing temperatures along with rain and wind, you can run into hypothermia type of conditions in Frontenac in spring. If possible, get into a tent, remove all cold, wet clothing and do a gentle rewarming with dry layers and sleeping bags, focusing on the core. If the person is alert warm, sweet drinks can help. If severe, use your Garmin InReach Mini 2 to call for help.
Poison ivy – Follow the rhyme – “Leaves of three, let it be.” The leaves are usually glossy with toothed edges. New leaves in spring have a red tint to them. If you do come in contact with poison ivy, scrub the area with soap and water as soon as you are able to.
Bites and stings: Use bug repellent for mosquitoes. If its blackfly season wear a head net and possibly a bug jacket. A bee’s stinger is barbed, and a wasp is not. To relieve the pain of a bee sting, scrape overtop with your fingernail. Wash both sting types with soap, water and then an antiseptic. Cover with calamine lotion. According to The Happy Camper, rubbing an aspirin over the affected area is also a good idea.
Giardia – Beavers are present in Frontenac Provincial Park. To prevent giardia or “beaver fever” purify and treat all your water. I always carry water purification tablets, the 1-L Katadyn Be Free microfilter and the larger Platypus GravityWorks Filter for in camp.
Blacklegged ticks – These nasty creatures are responsible for transmitting Lyme disease. To avoid them, wear long sleeves and pants tucked in, use insect repellent containing DEET, do body and pet checks regularly. Remove ticks by grabbing close to the skin and pulling straight out. Consider packing a tick remover in high tick areas.
Trail conditions in spring: Count on wet, muddy ground and slippery logs. Trying to find a dry place for lunch was a challenge. Don’t forget an inflatable seat cushion that can be part of a pillow set-up in the tent.
Watch your footing on wet, slippery logs
Frontenac Provincial Park is so green and empty in May
More paddling trips in Ontario you’ll probably enjoy
Kayaking Georgian Bay from Killarney Provincial Park – Kayak directly from Killarney, navigating past stunning granite cliffs, sheltered bays, and islands galore.
A 3-Day Early Season Canoeing Trip in Algonquin Park – A shoulder-season canoeing adventure with fewer crowds, crisp mornings, and a heightened sense of wilderness in Ontario’s iconic park.
A Week-Long Canoeing Trip in Quetico Provincial Park – A classic backcountry adventure through remote lakes, long portages, with some of Ontario’s finest wilderness camping.
1000 Islands Kayaking: What a 3 Day Trip Looks Like – An overview of what to expect on a three-day kayaking trip through the 1000 Islands, including camping, daily distances, and the rhythm of paddling among scenic islands.
Kayaking Georgian Bay Over a Long Weekend – A quick weekend paddling trip circumnavigating Franklin Island and exploring the rugged coastline and clear waters of Georgian Bay.
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