Which country is squeezed between Suriname, Venezuela and Brazil?
Arriving from Paramaribo, this is my first impression of Guyana.
Until recently, most people couldn’t point to Guyana on a map. Some mistake it for Ghana, ca 6,500 km away, as the crow flies. But mostly it is overlooked entirely. Change is afoot, though – and it’s coming fast. Lately, Guyana is popping up everywhere in economic forecasts, conservation reports, and glossy travel mags.
Tourism: One of the least visited countries in the world. Only 300,000 visitors/yr. For now.
Guyana is the only country in South America where English is the official language.
History: Like many countries in the world, Guyana has been colonised by various Europeans. The Dutch were first in 1581, followed by Britain in 1796. The country was known as British Guyana until independence in 1966.
Culture: Chinese, Indian, Brazilian, Caribbean, and original Amerindian. African traditions, Caribbean rhythms, Soca and Calypso music.
Food: Portuguese pastries, Chinese chow mein, Caribbean comfort food, Amerindian pepperpot stew and cassava bread, Indo-Guyanese roti & curry.
Nature: 4/5 of the country is rainforest: savannah, grasslands, indigenous villages.
Wildlife: weird and wonderful. One of the world’s most biodiverse countries. 47,000 different species of wildlife. 47,000! Lots of giant ones: giant anteaters, giant river turtles, capybara (giant rodents), giant eagles, giant otters, goliath bird-eating spiders (presumably also giant), green anacondas (most giant snake in the world), arapaima (giantest freshwater fish in the world) … Also normal-sized (I think) caimans, bats, possums, praying mantis, puma, jaguar, iguanas, and monkeys.
Not the greatest beaches in the world, but 120-km-long Shell Beach is the best of the lot. And it comes with sea turtles!! You need permission from the Protected Areas Commission to visit Shell Beach.
The Parliament building in Georgetown
So what happened? What’s behind this sudden buzz?
Oil: The discovery that changed everything
Petroleum, that’s what!
Guyana used to be one of South America’s poorest countries. Enter 2015, when ExxonMobil made a discovery that put Guyana on the global map: massive offshore oil reserves. By 2030, the oil company expects to pump up 1,7 million barrels of oil every day. That’s OPEC levels right there.
As a result, Guyana has become a rising energy power, with the fastest-growing economy in the world, a GDP growth rate of more than 10%!
What does all this sudden wealth and attention do to the country, though? Transforming it, that’s for sure. New roads, new jobs, new opportunities, new airlines flying in, investors circling like hawks. But people also worry about how this might affect a small, fragile country. It’s a double-edged sword, this: wealth on one side, risk and uncertainty on the other.
The massive surge in government revenue could – and should – be used for development and social programmes. However, according to the World Bank, 48% of the population lived on less than 5.5 USD per day in 2022. More recently, the director of Guyana Oil and Gas Energy Chamber claims the poverty rate has fallen to less than 20% in 2025. Reliable stats are hard to find. Guyana is working to eradicate poverty, but that much? In only three years?
The Essequibo Dispute
To complicate matters further, Guyana and Venezuela have an ongoing decades-long boundary dispute over the vast territory west of the Essequibo River; about two-thirds of Guyana’s territory.
Backed by both international law and the International Court of Justice, Guyana has full sovereignty over both Essequibo and its offshore waters, where the oil discoveries are. However, Venezuela does not recognise the ICJ’s jurisdiction and claims Essequibo as a Venezuelan state.
This is resource-rich land to begin with, with large gold and diamond deposits. Adding the new offshore oil discoveries to the mix, has caused the geopolitical tension to escalate.
Wilderness
Oil boom and territorial conflict aside, Guyana’s greatest asset is its natural wonders. More than 80% is rainforest, and the wildlife has the land pretty much to themselves. This is one of the last countries where you can trek through primary rainforest all alone. It’s sometimes referred to as the Amazon you’ve never seen.
Oil-fuelled economic growth and pristine ecosystems – that’s another balancing act for Guyana there: how to harmonise development and sustainability?
Meanwhile, indigenous communities manage huge areas of tropical forest storing 19.5 billion tons of carbon, which is more CO₂ than human activities produce here. Climate heroes!
The Mighty Kaieteur Falls
Most famous in the wilds of Guyana, though, is the many waterfalls, with spectacular Kaieteur Falls taking the top spot. Kaieteur is only accessible via a five-day trek, or by small plane.
Finding transport is challenging. Flights depend on the weather, and must be filled up (12 pax), which means tours usually run on weekends. Our full days in the country are Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday. Tricky!
When we arrive in Guyana, we still don’t know whether we’ll get to see this remote natural wonder or not. But then, just after we land at Ogle airport, an email pops in. Three seats are available on a flight tomorrow! Yippee!! (I’ve copied Andrew’s trip report from the Every Passport Stamp Facebook-group at the end of this post, for details/how-tos.)
The next morning, Trans-Guyana Airways brings us 200km into the rainforest. Before taking off, we step on the scale, gear n’all. The crew decides where we are going to sit, to get the right balance in the little propeller plane. (A Cessna 208B Grand Caravan, ’cause I know you wanna know.)
If you’re lucky, you’ll get a window seat, and have stunning views of the deep, rich, lush green rainforest and mist from the falls. If you’re extra lucky, you’ll see a rainbow over the falls, and Mount Roraima, on the Guyana/Venezuela border. The flight takes about one hour.
Kaieteur airstrip
Our pilot, Robert and our guide, Francine
Kaieteur National Park has a small visitors’ centre, where we can buy a few souvenirs, and learn about the falls from information boards on the walls.
The first people to see the falls were the Patamona, an Amerindian people native to the Pakaraima Mountains of northern Brazil and here in Guyana. They called the falls Kayik Túwúk, Old Man’s Falls. Francine, herself a Patamona, tells us this is still an important spiritual area for them.
Hidden deep in the rainforest, Kaieteur is the world’s tallest single-drop waterfall, plummeting 226 metres in one unbroken cascade. That’s twice the height of Mosi-oa-Tunya (Victoria Falls), and Niagara Falls is a mere kitchen tap in comparison.
What makes it truly magical, though, is the setting: no massive viewing platforms, no power lines, no roads, no crowds. In fact, the only human presence out here is the 12 of us and Francine. Us – and thundering water, rainforest mist, rare golden rocket frogs and Guianan cock-of-the-rock birds.
Also, no fences; we are all responsible for ourselves. That’s as it should be.
The easy hike out to the falls is in three stages, to three different viewing points, all spectacular. The first lookout is 15 minutes from the airstrip, and the hike takes about an hour in total.
Afterwards, we have lunch in the visitors’ centre; sandwiches brought in with the plane (and included in the cost of the tour).
Georgetown: charms and challenges
Most who travel to Guyana come for Kaieteur Falls and the interior. Some give Georgetown a miss, but I suggest you give it a day or two, to get a feel for the country: the good, the bad and the quirky.
So, how do I even begin to describe this oil boomtown…
The High Court, with the striking but dilapidated, neo-Gothic City Hall from 1889 in the background
Tree-lined avenues with new hotels and office towers alongside historic colonial architecture, modern malls and chaotic, crammed markets – all with a Caribbean flair. Also, opportunistic crime, an underground economy based on drug trafficking, everyday hustle…
Colonial-era buildings – some beautifully maintained, some derelict – tell stories of a complex past. Still, the vibe is down-to-earth. And if you have batteries to unload, you are welcome in the house on the right there.
Georgetown is not pretty, but it is real. And raw. Revealing, and rough around the edges. There’s a sense of being in transition here. Some say it is devoid of charm. I wouldn’t go that far, but it is a challenging city to wander around, partly because poverty is very visible. Tangible even. Aggressively so.
Much of the city lies below sea level, protected by a seawall from Dutch colonial times, which means flooding is a constant threat. Climate change has made this reality even harsher. The infrastructure seems to be struggling to keep up with the country’s rapid economic changes.
We stop by Amigo’s Bar & Grill along Waterloo Street. Without guns. Obviously.
Crime is rampant, and travel advisories do not beat about the bush.
Crime levels are high, and police capacity is low. There are frequent armed robberies, hold-ups, carjackings and other violent crimes, often involving 2 or more attackers. Passers-by can get caught up in gunfire even if they are not targets because police are armed and shoot back… Muggers can attack in broad daylight, often holding their victims at gunpoint or knifepoint…
Well… at least they aren’t saying ‘do not go!’
Scared off yet? Don’t be. Just remember to pack your common sense. I have added some safety do’s and dont’s further down here.
Things to see and do in Georgetown
Promenade Gardens and Independence Park
We begin our ramblings in Promenade Gardens. It’s a quiet place to wander, or sit and read, or just relax – with flowers and tropical birds. There is a statue of Gandhi here, and a Victorian Era pavilion. But there is more to these gardens, of course. A horrible history, no less. This peaceful park was once a public execution site.
During the Demerara Revolt of 1823, more than 10,000 enslaved people rebelled, hoping to gain full emancipation. Who wouldn’t? The rebellion lasted two days and was non-violent, but the reaction from the colonial powers was anything but. Several hundred enslaved men and women were summarily executed without trial.
But something came of it. The Demerara Revolt gave momentum to the anti-slavery movement in Britain. To the colonists’ dismay, working hours for enslaved people were regulated (6am to 6pm ) and weekends off. The landowners were no longer allowed to whip the women. Enslaved people were allowed to marry, own property, and be freed. It took another 10 years before slavery was finally outlawed in Britain with the Slavery Abolition Act of 1833.
St. George’s Cathedral
From the early 1800s, this dazzlingly white, Gothic structure is one of the tallest wooden churches in the world.
If houses of worship is your thing, here are three more:
1. Christ Church, just across the street from Promenade Gardens, 2. St Andrew’s Kirk (Scottish, and one of the oldest buildings in town), 3. the Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception (Brickdam)
Stabroek Market
You can buy everything from fresh fragrant fruit to broken jewellery in this crazy, crowded, colourful 18th century market. Also, pickpockets abound and robberies happen on a daily basis, so this is a place to be particularly aware of your surroundings. Vendors warn us to keep our phones out of sight.
Demerara bridge
A new Chinese-built 2,650 m-long bridge across the Demerara River opened on 31 August 2025, just 12 days ago, replacing what used to be the world’s longest floating bridge. You can cycle or walk across, or hop on a cruise – sunset or otherwise – that takes you up close.
Guyana National Park – and manatees
Also in the city, a 25-min walk from Promenade Gardens, is Guyana National Park, an urban green space, with joggers, cyclists, dog-walkers, birdwatchers, and manatees! They live in a man-made pond, introduced there to help control seaweed growth. There are manatees in the Botanical Gardens, as well.
They are elusive, these aquatic cows. If you have time and patience, they may come up to you. May!
Roy Geddes Steel Pan Museum
Saving the best of Georgetown for last, we take a taxi out to the Rasville area (ca 15 minutes from the city centre), to what surely must be Georgetown’s quirkiest site.
Roy Geddes is 86 years old, and retired from touring with his band The Silver Tones. He and his wife have transformed their home into a museum dedicated to steel pan music.
It is a delight to wander amongst the colours and the whimsy, indoors and outdoors in this unusual place.
Eating and drinking in Georgetown
We tried these restaurants and cafes:
Cara Lodge – very good food in a charming heritage house from 1840
Grand Coastal (our hotel) – also good food
Aagman – Indian fusion. Vibrant decor and good food.
Oasis Café – breakfast/lunch spot w/fresh salads and sandwiches, tropical juices and good cappuccino
Fresh – chill, creative health food using local ingredients
Fireside Grill n’ Chill – a fairly small, breezy, open-air steak and seafood place
And these bars/clubs:
The Original Sheriff Bar – on Sheriff Street, Georgetown’s entertainment hub. The original The Original Sheriff Bar was completely destroyed in a fire in 2016. However, a new one with the same name opened in June this year opposite Sanjay’s Jewellery. Loud music, a Tesla Cyber Truck on show, and scantily dressed girls dancing around a swimming pool. Friendly armed bouncers. An oligarch kinda vibe.
Palm Court – on Main Street. Live music and/or karaoke, fun cocktails and illuminated trees, for dancing and socialising late into the night.
Be street smart: Georgetown dos and don’ts
Like many fast-growing cities, Georgetown comes with risks. As opposed to Cayenne and Paramaribo, safety is a real concern here. On our first walkabout in town, I was very nearly run down by an aggressive young guy, clearly high as a kite. At bars and clubs, armed robberies is a real danger, so don’t be surprised to see the bouncers carrying AK-47s.
Do:
Stick to well-lit, busy areas after dark.
Use official taxis or ride-hailing services. If you don’t have a phone number or app, ask a waiter, bouncer, etc, to call one for you.
Keep valuables out of sight in markets and crowded areas.
Ask locals or hotel staff about which neighbourhoods to avoid.
Don’t:
Walk alone late at night in unfamiliar districts.
Flash expensive jewellery, cameras, or stashes of cash.
Leave bags unattended at bars, rum shops, or minibus stops… in fact, don’t leave them unattended anywhere.
Don’t wander off drunk, and stay clear of drugs. Seriously! Guyana has long been a transit point for narcotics, and local use is growing. Laws are strict — possession carries a minimum sentence of 3 years. You do not want to spend even one day in a Guyana prison.
So why should you care about Guyana?
For investors, Guyana is a huge opportunity. But since you’re stopping by this blog, I’m going to assume you’re a traveller. And since you’re reading this particular post, you might be a thrill-seeker looking for the next edge of the world. The next big thing before it hits mainstream, perhaps?
Guyana is an adventure frontier for sure. But it won’t stay under the radar much longer. Airlines are adding more routes. Eco-lodges are opening. And with oil money flowing, tourism infrastructure is bound to follow. But right now, it’s still raw and rough. Still wild. Still authentic.
An oil boomtown, a rainforest sanctuary, a cultural melting pot, a rising global player. That’s a lot of stories happening all at once here. Time to join the conversation?
Trip report: Kaieteur Falls, Guyana
[July 2025]
TLDR; fact remains you really are at the mercy of whether the tour operators reach their min passenger threshold for the flight to take off.
Our experience, 3 pax, started trying to book 1-2 months prior:
Collating the most recent EPSers reports I emailed 4 companies (Roraima, Dragon, Air Services, Evergreen). All responded eventually. We pursued a booking with Roraima, who were initially responsive, whilst clear that confirmation relied upon min pax threshold being met (ranges between 8-12 depending on company).
Tours generally only run at weekends due to demand. Whilst our availability was unfortunately only Mon-Weds.
A week before our intended trip (we still weren’t on the ground in Guyana) I emailed Roraima and the other 3 companies in one last ditch attempt. 3 replied – as expected no tours meeting the minimum, Roraima didn’t respond at all.
However, [yesterday, 1 day before our intended tour],we had a follow up email from Evergreen saying they now had a tour available today [Monday]. As luck would have it, the email came through around the time we had just landed at Ogle airport from Suriname – so we turned the taxi around and went back to pay at their office nearby.
Options: cash, or Mastercard (4.3% surcharge). Evergreen offer ways to pay via Mastercard remotely involving an authorisation form & sending photo of ID along with it on WhatsApp – no idea if this is possible with other operators, no idea how easy it is as we paid in person.
From speaking to other guests on the tour it sounds like two other guests only booked yesterday, which unlocked the tour for us all as it pushed us over the 12 pax minimum. All fellow passengers were Guyanese, I think we were lucky that today is a public holiday, perhaps increasing demand unusually for a Monday.
Can’t fault Evergreen. They delivered the trip as promised, and I appreciated their speedy communication (on a Sunday) via WhatsApp once confirmation of the trip running came through.
Take outs:
– you don’t need to place ‘fake’ bookings with several operators – as some have suggested previously. But definitely start dialogue with several companies early on.
– be persistent. A tour could be unlocked at the very last minute as in our case. The wheels of bureaucracy turn slower than in neighbouring countries like Suriname.
– the falls are definitely worth the time, emails, WhatsApp’s and $. Pleasantly untouristy, e.g. no guard rails in the look-out points, only having to share the view with your fellow passengers from the aeroplane.
Aside from the falls we were lucky enough to see Golden Rocket Frogs and Guianan Cock of the Rock birds.
We’re not quite done with this unsung part of the planet yet.
Look out for the final chapter: Trinidad!
All photos by Andrew Morland, Tom Brothwell and myself.
Why is everyone suddenly talking about Guyana? is a post from Sophie’s World