Tucked between the Amazon and the Atlantic, Paramaribo is a delightful fusion of Dutch colonial charm, Caribbean rhythm, and South American soul. The historic inner city has UNESCO World Heritage status, and you know we like that here on Sophie’s World.
Saying farewell to French Guiana, we cross the river in a wooden pirogue, and arrive in Suriname in no time. For less flimsy transport, there’s La Gabrielle, a car/passenger ferry. (Be aware that you cannot take rental cars across this international border.)
Albina
Albina is the landing point for the ferry and for the numerous pirogues crossing the river from the neighbour country. Border control is perfunctory.
Just out the door of the ferry terminal are several bars and a market – and suddenly, everyone speaks Dutch. Or Spanish. Venezuelans wanting to get away from the crisis at home, come for the relative stability and employment opportunities.
From the river, Albina looks like a pleasant enough town, but we’re keen to move on. A quick Parbo, then we find a car to take us to, well Parbo.
Picturesque Paramaribo
Isn’t it a cool name, Paramaribo? Makes me think of pirates. Captain Jack Sparrow types. But that’s only my imagination, because Paramaribo’s connection to piracy of old was minimal. The same cannot be said for the modern-day version, I’m afraid. Several Guyanese fishermen were killed in a pirate attack off the coast of Suriname in 2018.
Still – Paramaribo! It’s fun to say. Try it! With rolling r’s.
Greenheart Boutique hotel
We arrive in the early evening at our lodgings, and what fabulous lodgings they are! From being greeted with homemade coconut popsicles, to the rooms, to the cosy, little pool, to the breakfast bar where I work in the morning hours, to the central location (walking distance from most everywhere), to the wonderful staff and the elusive turtle Woody! Cannot recommend it enough. (Nope, nothing sponsored).
Palmentuin
Searching for a suitable dinner spot, we pass through Palmentuin, a serene urban space from 1685, with palms, tropical birds, and capuchin monkeys. Now at dusk, there are palms aplenty, but neither birds nor monkeys grace us with their presence. Nor can it be said to be serene.
It appears we have turned up on Keti Koti. Freedom Day is when all of Dutch Caribbean, including this former Dutch colony, celebrates the abolition of slavery back in 1863. Tonight, the palm garden is full of people of all ages, having fun to the tune of loud music. Sadly, we are too late for the Bigi Spikri parade, featuring traditional costumes n’all.
We also get our first encounter with Paramaribo’s rowdy party bus, driving through the streets, around and around. Seems to be a nightly occurrence.
Religions live side by side in Paramaribo
Paramaribo is probably South America’s least known capital. But this city is not just a gateway to the Amazon, it is a destination in its own right. Dutch colonial history, Asian flavours, Caribbean energy – feels like I am in Europe. With a tropical flair. I could stay a while.
Wandering around the historic city centre, I discover it is also a surprising city:
A mosque and a synagogue as neighbours!
Christianity is present too, here represented by the tall St. Peter and Paul Cathedral.
And a little further out is this striking Hindu holy house.
Paramaribo’s Onafhankelijkheidsplein
Bit of a tongue twister, eh? Try saying it 3 times fast. It’s Dutch for Independence Square.
The large, central square is the political heart of Suriname.
1. The Ministry of Finance, 2. the Presidential Palace, 3. the National Assembly, and 4. a row of flags we never figured out.
Fort Zeelandia
It seems every corner tells a story of cultures colliding and blending over the centuries. A two-minute walk from Independence Square is Fort Zeelandia.
Surinam (then without the ‘e’ at the end), was originally a French colony, and back in 1640, the French built the original wooden fortress. A decade later, the English took over, reinforced the fortress and called it Fort Willoughby. Another decade or so, and the Dutch kicked the English out – and voila, Fort Zeelandia.
In more recent times, the fort has seen its share of horrific history…
Not long after independence in 1975, Suriname descended into corruption and ethnic violence, and in 1980 a military coup marked the start of years of dictatorship and brutality. Political prisoners were sent to Fort Zeelandia for imprisonment and torture. In 1982, the military abducted, tortured and arbitrarily executed 15 young people who opposed the military regime: 15 brave journalists, lawyers, scientists, a union leader, a university teacher, military officers, and a football player turned politician; they all spoke out against injustice and lack of democracy.
Paramaribo’s wooden wonders
Parimaribo’s wooden heritage is unique in South America. Streets are lined with white-painted houses that look like they belong in a European storybook set amongst palm trees.
Officers quarters by Fort Zeelandia, next to the river
Waterkant: the riverside
Shopping and markets
Paramaribo has several markets. Here are three we visited: one for arts and crafts, one for daily life, and one for spiritual traditions.
Creative: If you are looking for souvenirs, Readytex has a large selection of Christmas tree baubles, fridge magnets and much more. It is also an art gallery, showcasing works by Surinamese and Caribbean artists.
Practical: The Central Market along Waterkant, overflows with tropical fruits, spices, and fish from the Suriname River.
Spiritual: One of the most intriguing cultural experiences here, is the Maroon Market, also known as Djoeka Wojo – the Witches Market. Vendors, mostly Maroon women (descendants of escaped, enslaved Africans), sell herbal remedies, bush medicines, and ritual items used in Afro-Surinamese religious practices, such as Winti. It’s a window into Suriname’s traditions and beliefs.
Mysterious powders, unknown liquids, dried plants from the rainforest, seeds, nuts, charms… it is a curious mix of pharmacy and sacred space. Some locals come here to shop for everyday cure-alls, others seek ingredients for ceremonies and protective rituals. We are buying calabash bowls.
Photos are generally a no-no here, but Andrew manages to charm his way to take a few. I snap a quick one of this back wall, honouring musicians, political activists and folks fighting the good fight.
Abraham Lincoln, Malcolm X, Fidel Castro, Mahatma Gandhi, Martin Luther King, Che, Bob Marley, Emperor Haile Selassie, Marcus Garvey, Lucky Dube, and Barack Obama – as well as Surinamese freedom fighters Anton de Kom, J.A. Pengel and Tata Colin.
Where to eat, drink and be merry in Paramaribo
OK, let’s get on to the important stuff – food and fun. The cuisine in Suriname is a mix of Indian, Javanese, Creole, Chinese and Dutch – in short, flavours from around the world. Local must-try’s: roti, nasi goreng, saoto soup, peanut soup and all kinds of kip (chicken).
Paramaribo has restaurants and bars in abundance. We are in town for all of 5 nights, and have plenty of time to sample quite a few, and even return to some. Here you go:
Zus & Zo is where we begin our explorations of culinary Suriname. Do you like satay? I do! And their Sate van Zus – delish! The homemade ice tea likewise. Happy to recommend this place. In fact, we come back a few days later. It’s about a 90-second walk from Palmentuin, artistic, and with a cosy outdoor area. They also have simple, affordable accomms, and organise tours around Suriname.
Kip Creole (stewed sweet&sour chicken), also recommended
Souposo: Just 300 metres from our hotel, Souposo is the go-to place for, you guessed it – soups. Typical Surinamese ones, like peanut, okra and saoto – chicken soup with lemongrass, similar to Indonesian soto ayam.
Delicious hearty peanut soup
Mighty Racks: If meat is your thing, look no further than this barbecue hotspot. Ribs, chicken wings, all kinds of grilled animal muscle. The venue is big, the menu is big, the portions are big. About a 10-minute lazy saunter from Palmentuin.
Mirosso: A Paramaribo institution, we hear. It’s out in Blauwgrond, ca 15 min away by car. Famous for affordable Javanese food, especially bami and nasi dishes. Huge portions, couldn’t even finish half of it.
Waterkant
On the Suriname River, Waterkant is Paramaribo’s oldest street, a chill, relaxed area with several cocktail bars and restaurants, and often live kaseko or Caribbean soca or reggae music. A nice place for an evening stroll, and to grab a Parbo beer if the mood strikes you. We tried two restaurants along Waterkant:
E’tembe Rainforest restaurant gets rave reviews; I’m not entirely sure why. The food was nothing to write home about and the atmosphere was, well, lacking. A bad day, perhaps? My favourite feature is the long wooden bridge to the entrance, and the riverside location. And those views…
River views from the table at E’tembe
Roline’s de Waag is located inside a gorgeous 17th-century weighing house. Can’t tell you about the food, as we only came for drinks. We only discovered it on our last night in Paramaribo and were sorry we hadn’t seen it sooner. Friendly staff, craft cocktails on a spacious, pleasant patio, and cool, soft jazz playing. Just a really nice place. I didn’t want to leave.
’t Vat Sidewalk Cafe: We spotted this place our first night in town – and came back every night. A local favourite by all accounts, a five-minute walk from Palmentuin. Casual restaurant/bar with food, snacks, cold beer (Parbo, of course), and creative cocktails. Large open-air terrace and a lively vibe. Service is kinda slow, except when Rachel is in charge. Nice hangout for drinks and people-watching.
You don’t mess with Rachel
Every night, on the way back to Greenheart, we pass more lively bars and dance clubs.
Exploring beyond Paramaribo: jungle, rivers, wildlife
One of Paramaribo’s best perks is proximity to nature. The city is not in nature, like Oslo. But within an hour, you’ll find yourself surrounded by rainforest, rivers, and wildlife.
Peperpot NatuurPark
Just a 25-minute drive from Paramaribo is Peperpot Nature Park. Built in the 1700s as a coffee- and cocoa plantation, it was abandoned in the 1980s. Luckily, people thought better of it and converted it into what you see today: a 700-hectares park (about 1800 acres for you imperialists), with easy walking/cycling trails through lush rainforest and wetlands. A haven for birdwatchers and for those of us who love trees.
If birdwatching is your thing, be sure to bring binoculars to get a good look at toucans, woodpeckers, and more than 250 other species. I’m more interested in mammals, so I look for sloths, caimans, agoutis, and not least, the primates that roam the park: squirrel monkeys, howler monkeys, capuchins – they are all here, some more elusive than others.
Go early in the morning when wildlife is most active.
Nieuw Amsterdam
A further 20 minutes from Peperpot – or a short dugout canoe journey across the river from Paramaribo – is the 18th-century Fort Nieuw Amsterdam. The Dutch built it here, at the confluence of the Suriname and Commewijne Rivers, to protect the colony against naval attacks. Later, it was used as a prison. Today it is an open-air museum where cannons still face the water.
We are the only ones about this afternoon. It’s quiet. A bit eerie.
The gunpowder house
One of the most haunting chapters of the fort’s past is its role in slavery. Enslaved Africans who resisted or attempted escape were often held here before facing brutal punishment or execution, often as a warning to others.
Plantation owners were allowed to discipline their slaves, i.e. beat and torture them. After slavery was abolished (1863, remember), the colonial government was in charge of the abuse.
Wandering through the property is an evocative experience. The punishment yard and dungeons still stand, reminding us of a time of cruelty and oppression. But also courage. Countless enslaved men and women continued to resist and even maintain their culture and traditions in the face of a system that sought to break them.
Restored buildings have exhibits on Suriname’s colonial past: plantations, slavery, and Maroon resistance.
Dolphins
Dolphin spotting is a popular outing. Sunset dolphin cruises usually set out from Leonsberg in Paramaribo, near the mouth of the river. But we are in Nieuw Amsterdam, on the other side of the river. Stopping for drinks at the terrace of little Het Bastion hotel, we’re wondering if we can track down someone with a boat, so we can get up close with the cute cetaceans.
That turns out to be easy enough; we simply ask the receptionist if she knows anyone. 10 minutes later, a friend of hers comes along and picks us up.
Off we go, towards the river junction.
It takes a little while, but soon we are surrounded by the lovely, elegant creatures. It is indeed a special experience – relaxed and magical at the same time.
The Guyana river dolphins are smaller than ocean dolphins, with a distinctive long beak, and pink bellies, They are small, friendly – and very quick. Soon, they surface playfully. They approach, swim along the boat, and before we know it, they are in the air for a few seconds, just metres away. Capturing them with a phone camera is challenging.
Now you see me, now you don’t.
This is also bird-spotting territory: scarlet ibis, herons, kingfishers…
Idyllic scenes along the shore.
Lazytime in Paramaribo
It’s our last day in Suriname, and we decide to do nothing. And we do it at Royal Torarica, a snazzy resort five minutes from Palmentuin.
Hanging by the pool, funky drinks, massage…
Paramaribo practicals
Best time to visit: Aim for the dry seasons (February–April and August–November) for comfortable weather. That said, we were here in early July, and that worked well, too
Money: Surinamese Dollar (SRD) is the local currency. Oddly, most ATMs in Paramaribo do not accept VISA cards, and we found only one that accepted MasterCard. Best to bring cash – EUR or USD.
Languages: Dutch is the official language, but English is widely understood. Sranan Tongo, a local Creole, adds to the soundscape.
Getting around: Walking is easy in the city centre. For trips further out, we took taxis or used a rental car.
Safety: Paramaribo felt safe, and I wouldn’t mind walking alone, even at night. Here as everywhere, common sense is your best friend.
Moving westward – to Guyana and a spectacular waterfall.
Watch this space!
All photos by Andrew Morland, Tom Brothwell and myself.
Historic Inner City of Paramaribo is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Here are more UNESCO World Heritage sites we have visited around the world.
Top things to do in Paramaribo: A travel guide to Suriname’s capital is a post from Sophie’s World