My first encounter in Marrakech is this lovely building.
And what a vision it is, Marrakech railway station. Traditional Arabic architecture, tiled facade, marble interior, all the light…
Welcome to Marrakech
We have arrived in Marrakech after a long journey through Mauritania, visiting desert oases and the ancient libraries in Chinguetti, travelling atop a giant heap of ore on the Iron Ore Train for 13 hours in blistering heat, and exploring the enigmatic country Western Sahara. A lot of sensory experiences, so we decide to simply relax in Marrakech. All nice and easy.
For the next 4 days then, we will just amble about the medina, browse the souks (looking for egg holders and a lamp), and try a couple of the legendary hammams. For the rest, we’ll eat, drink and be merry. Simple as!
Tom has found a gorgeous riad at the edge of Marrakech medina; easy walking distance to everything, yet far enough from the centre to be away from the noise.
Highly recommended, Ksar Anika.
Marrakech Medina
When you see the striking terracotta-coloured sandstone buildings, you’ll immediately understand why Marrakech is known as the Red City. And nowhere is this as clearly visible as in the medina, the old town. Not surprisingly, the 12th century Medina of Marrakech, with its endless stretch of narrow, winding alleys, arched doorways, hidden courtyards and lively squares, is on UNESCO’s list of World Heritage sites, those that need special protection, so future generations can enjoy them as much as we do.
The medina has surprises around every corner. In the souks, artisans, traders, and crafters have been plying their trades for centuries. In the hammams, you get stillness and a good scrub-down, and the chance to slow down and reconnect with yourself as the chaos of the world outside fades into the background.
The senses of the medina
The medina engages all the senses. The scent of leather and of cumin, saffron, cinnamon and cloves; spice vendors encourage us to sniff their aromatic wares. The sights of colourful fabrics and hand-woven carpets, shiny lanterns, delicate jewellery: it’s all so visually dazzling. The taste of dates and the ever-present mint tea. The feel of summer’s heat on my skin. The sounds of bargaining – haggling over prices in a process I suspect is as much about the game as it is about the transaction.
The pace of life seems to be slow and energetic at the same time. Sounds odd, doesn’t it? Yet chaos and calm both seem to reign together here in these 1000-year-old surroundings. Locals wander about, deliberately yet low-key. Children play in the streets. Traders engage in lively bartering sessions with tourists eager to buy, but reluctant to negotiate.
Don’t be! Bargaining is integral to the Moroccan shopping experience. It’s all part of the fun. (My mum would have loved it, she even bargained in shops at home.)
Djemaa el-Fna
The most iconic spot in the medina is Djemaa el-Fna, gathering place since 1062 CE; the busiest square in Africa; lively by day, even livelier by night.
We see fortune tellers, snake charmers, musicians, dancers and henna artists. Monkey trainers and tooth pullers are rumoured to hang about here as well. As are pickpockets. (None ‘bump into’ us.) In the old days, Djemaa el-Fna was also a venue for public decapitations. Thankfully, times have changed.
The souks
The souks are the lifeblood of the medina, a riotous celebration of craftsmanship and commerce, and where centuries-old traditions are kept alive. Organised by craft – leather goods, jewellery, metal work, spices, textiles – the alleys are filled with vendors calling out to potential buyers, peddling intricate lamps, handmade pottery, anything you want, really – and things you didn’t even know you wanted.
And they are truly a maze, these souks. Each alley leads to another. Google maps won’t help you here. Or at least, it doesn’t help me – but then we aren’t exactly BFFs anyway, GPS-girl and I.
Here are some of them:
Souk des Bijoutiers – edgy jewellery
Souk des Babouche – brightly coloured slippers
Souk Haddadine – metalworkers (pots, trinkets, jewellery)
Souk Chouari – woodworkers (hand-carved furniture, wooden lanterns and bowls)
Souk des Teinturiers – hand-dyed wool and baskets
Souk Cherratine – leather
Souk Semmarine – textiles, shawls, kaftans
Souk Jeld – vinyl
Souk el-Attarine – spices and fragrance
Bab-el-Khemis – a large flea market at the northern gate of the medina, with antiques, sofas, mattresses, TVs, Nokia flip phones, you name it. A veritable treasure trove.
Brought home this little brass lamp, loving the cool visual effect.
The hammams: invigorating, relaxing, social
After navigating – and haggling your way through – the lively souks, what better way to unwind than with an hour in a traditional spa. These bathhouses are an important part of Moroccan culture. Centuries of tradition right here. Here’s the process:
If you’re a mixed group, you split up – there’s a male and a female section and the two don’t mix. In the female section, I begin with a steam session in a warm, humid room, getting all nice and tender. Then a bath attendant comes along and gets to work with black soap – or more an olive oil paste, really – and a kessa, an exfoliating glove. The most rigorous cleaning my skin has ever had.
Next up, with no prior warning, she pours a bucket of water over my head. (Not my favourite part, I’ll admit; I even avoid getting water in my eyes in the shower). But after all that: a massage. Ahhh! A lovely, comfortable one, nothing like a Thai massage, which can be slightly brutal.
Finally, it’s time for a bit of hydrating in a comfy chair in a lounge, sipping mint tea. I am refreshed and rejuvenated. I might even have dropped a few years. Feels like it.
We try Hammam Mouassine (Rue Sidi el Yamani) and Hammam Ziani (Rue Riad Zitoun el Jdid). Both are good. Ziani gets a special mention, though, because of the three lazy dogs hanging out in the lounge. Is there anything more relaxing than watching a dog, well, relax?
Both are also traditional communal hammams inside the medina, where you’ll get a ritualistic experience complete with cleansing, exfoliating and relaxing – in public. It’s a proper authentic encounter where you join locals of all ages. In Mouassine, I meet a family of two sisters and their children – two teenage girls and a baby – as well as the grandmother. An enjoyable social event.
There are also private, more intimate hammams in boutique hotels and riads, offering additional treatments – facials, aromatherapy, etc. More luxurious, but probably not as entertaining.
Museums, palaces, temples and gardens
The medina is also home to the walled Kasbah (the former royal complex), as well as other palaces and museums, but since we are in the relaxing part of our holiday, we skip them.
For the most part, that is. After visiting Hammam Ziani, Andrew and I stumble past Bahia Palace. Have to pop in. Just a brief look.
Bahia Palace was built in the 19th century, and is 2 hectares (5 acres), but only a small part is open to the public. Inside, we see silk panels, stained-glass windows and oceans of blue, white and yellow tiles. Outside are lovely courtyards and gardens.
On another random ramble through the medina, we end up in Mellah, the old Jewish quarter, with souks (fairly quiet ones) and a couple of synagogues. I like the focus on all the three monotheistic religions in Slat el-Azama synagogue. In Marrakech, they all co-exist peacefully.
Koutoubia Mosque: A striking landmark
Koutoubia is Marrakech’s largest and most famous mosque, and a symbol of the city’s Islamic heritage. With its 77-metre-high minaret, it is an architectural masterpiece, and its design has inspired the construction of other mosques across Morocco and beyond. Sadly for us, non-Muslims cannot enter, but the surrounding gardens are open to the public.
Koutoubia Mosque, visible from almost anywhere in Marrakech. See if you can spot it further along in the post.
Food and drink in Marrakech medina
Marrakech dining is all about the characteristic rooftops, with fantastic views over the medina and the city, not to mention the sunsets! Lots of delicious food to be had, as well, and a fun & friendly atmosphere. We set out to try a good many of them.
Dardar Rooftop
First night in town, and it’s time for a proper birthday celebration at our first Marrakech rooftop.
And what an excellent rooftop it is: good food, creative cocktails, cheerful ambiance, great views. Credit to Tom’s nephew, Will, for the recommendation.
La Pergola
Football on the rooftop – England vs. the Netherlands.
– then dinner in the beautiful indoor courtyard.
Un Déjeuner à Marrakech
On another rooftop terrace, high above the medina, Un Déjeuner à Marrakech comes with a fun 1950s vibe: an old-fashioned telephone, a transistor radio and other retro memorabilia. Food is good, too.
Kosybar
Kosybar is a restaurant, bar & café in the medina. We only stop by for drinks – there is a limit to how many dinners one can eat, after all. Fab views of Place de Ferblantiers (Tinsmiths Square) from the terrace.
Babouchka Club
A curious, dystopian night club with skimpily dressed young girls, and what I assume to be Russian oligarchs – but that could be my prejudice. Many bouncers (or are they bodyguards?). Cool name, but not my scene (if that wasn’t clear). Admission: 300 dirham.
Kabana Rooftop
Last, but not least, is Kabana Rooftop: we were here twice – and would probably have gone back again, had we stayed longer.
Yet another long night/early morning on a fun rooftop concludes our summer adventures in West Africa.
A la prochaine fois, l’Afrique
All photos by Andrew Morland, Tom Brothwell and myself.
The Medina of Marrakech: souks, hammams, food and fun is a post from Sophie’s World