Discover 2 Quirky Ways to Experience the Grand Canyon

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Uncover unique and quirky ways to experience the Grand Canyon like never before with the Grand Canyon Railway and glamorous glamping.

Grand Canyon National Park has so many facets that it’s an entirely different experience each time you visit. Whether you go in summer or winter, see the North, South, or West Rim, hike down into the canyon or admire it from various lookout points, or stay overnight in the park or nearby, it offers countless ways to make epic memories.

I’d been to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon a few times, but this year, I went twice—in late April and late August—and had two distinctly different and quirky adventures. Whether you’ve been to the Grand Canyon multiple times or it’s your first visit, I recommend both.

In April of 2024, I stayed in Williams, Arizona, and took the Grand Canyon Railway to the South Rim for a day trip. A few months later, I stayed two nights at Under Canvas, a glamping resort about half an hour south of the park’s South Rim. I’ll share the pros and cons of each and how to get the most out of both ways of visiting the canyon.

Getting to the Grand Canyon

The best way to visit Grand Canyon National Park from Phoenix is by car. Many visitors to the state plug the trip into a longer itinerary that might include the northern Arizona cities of Prescott, Cottonwood, Jerome, Sedona, and/or Flagstaff on the way there.

You can also drive to Williams, Arizona, about an hour south of the South Rim park entrance, and ride the Grand Canyon Railway train to and from the park. It takes longer and costs more, but it’s entertaining and memorable.

The best time to visit the Grand Canyon is in the spring or fall when it’s less crowded and temperatures are milder. Summer on the South Rim can be hot (in the 90s or even 100s) and bring monsoon storms, while winter is cold enough for winter coats (and sometimes it closes due to snow). Storms notwithstanding, stargazing conditions are best in the summer—you can (and we did) see the Milky Way with the naked eye from our glamping resort.

Note: Private vehicles, with certain exceptions, aren’t allowed on most roads along the South Rim except for Desert View Drive. You have to park and take shuttle buses, which are wheelchair accessible, or ride bikes. Most parking lots are full by noon, so arrive early. View the official website for information about accessibility and pets.

Things to Do in Williams, Arizona

If you take the Grand Canyon Railway, spend a few hours in Williams, Arizona, a historic tourist town along the old Route 66. It’s packed with charming old buildings, some dating from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and is home to the Grand Canyon Railway & Hotel.

My friend Jennifer and I perused shops selling jewelry, clothing, hats, novelty items, and more. Fans of vintage car culture won’t want to miss the Route 66 Museum & Gift Shop and Pete’s Gas Station Museum. I also enjoyed sipping wine at the Grand Canyon Wine Company tasting room. While I passed on the Poozeum, a collection of fossilized dinosaur poop, it does hold a scatological fascination for some.

Where to Eat and Stay in Williams

Dinner options in Williams include Italian, Mexican, Thai, a brewpub, diners, steakhouses, and the Fred Harvey Restaurant buffet near the hotel and train depot. We splurged on upscale meals of filet mignon and shrimp skewers at the Red Raven Restaurant and enjoyed the food and throwback ambiance.

Lodging in Williams ranges from budget motels to major chains to historic inns—including Arizona’s oldest hotel, the Historic Grand Canyon Hotel, built in 1892. That’s not to be confused with the Grand Canyon Railway Hotel, which offers modern accommodations adjacent to the depot and package rates with a room and train tickets.

We chose a lower-priced yet highly rated room at the Hampton Inn by Hilton Williams, a two-minute drive from the depot. While older hotels in town might have more character, this one, which opened in late 2022, offered the gleaming cleanliness and luxurious comfort of a newer property.

Insiders’ Guide to the Grand Canyon Railway

The Grand Canyon Railway is a memorable way to experience the Grand Canyon. Follow the tips below to ensure the best experience.

Grand Canyon Railway Basics

First, buy train tickets online early because they sell out. Then, pick them up at the historic depot the morning of the trip or the day before and browse the expansive (but expensive) gift shop.

Prices for train seats are listed online, and in 2024, they ranged from about $70 to $240 for adults and about $36 to $190 for ages two through 15. Children two and under are free, and two classes of cars are only for ages 16 and up. We opted for the Luxury Dome and felt it was worth the upgrade due to the superior views and adults-only vibe.

The train departs at 9:30 AM and arrives at the canyon at 11:45 AM (8:30 AM and 10:45 AM in November and December). The ADA-accessible train welcomes service animals but doesn’t allow emotional support animals or pets.

Be sure to arrive early and walk up the tracks to a set of bleachers surrounding a replica Western town facade, where the experience begins before boarding. Riders are treated to a corny but cute “cowboy shootout.” These hoodlums appear again on the trip back, which is a hoot.

On the Grand Canyon Railway Train

The train is a gorgeous machine, originally built with diesel locomotives and spiffy historic cars, but now converted to run on recycled oil. It chugs through 64 miles of mostly flat (read: not terribly scenic) high desert and scrub, but our chirpy passenger attendant, who doubled as our bartender, made the trip worth the price. A consummate performer, she regaled us with comedic tales and history. The mellow singer/guitarist serenaded us on the return afternoon ride, warbling oldies like Roger Miller’s “King of the Road.”

In the morning, a small buffet of juices, fruit, muffins, donuts, and other snacks was laid out.

Pro tip: Even though it’s not the most gourmet spread, fill up so you don’t have to wait in line to get something to eat in the park if you’re heading back the same day. You’re only there for a few hours, so your time is better spent seeing sights.

A significant advantage of the train is that it chugs straight into Grand Canyon Village and avoids the lines of vehicles waiting to enter the park. The return trip included a Champagne toast, soft drinks, veggies and dip, Chex mix, and other snacks, so you can nosh again then. Alcoholic drinks flowed freely among our fellow passengers on both legs of the trip but weren’t included in the price.

Grand Canyon Railway Extras

Jennifer and I paid extra for the convenient Grand Canyon Railway bus tour in the park. It offered narration and a couple of overlooks, including peeks at the Colorado River; we even saw some folks rafting. (Our tour wasn’t ADA accessible, but the Grand Tour offers that option). If I did it again, I’d skip the bus tour, spend the afternoon taking free park buses to various overlooks, and stay the night in the park or nearby to have more time.

Those with young ones, take note: In November and December, the Grand Canyon Railway offers a memorable trip to the “North Pole” on The Polar Express. I hear it’s a grand adventure for kids of all ages, but especially those who are still enchanted by Santa Claus, who awaits with gifts. The train leaves at 5:30 and 7:30 PM and lasts just over an hour.

Glamping at Under Canvas Grand Canyon

My husband, Eric, and I returned to the Grand Canyon on a multi-day northern Arizona trip over Labor Day weekend. We stayed about 30 minutes south of the South Rim entrance at Under Canvas Grand Canyon.

The company has 13 “upscale, safari-inspired accommodations,” as it describes them, near locations boasting natural beauty, such as national parks and adventurous destinations. It gets fabulous reviews and accolades from media such as Travel + Leisure, Condé Nast Traveler, and the New York Times.

Stargazing at Under Canvas

First, let’s talk about the upsides—and there are many. Under Canvas is one of the most magical places I’ve ever stayed, and I’ve traveled extensively. If you don’t mind the rustic aspects, you’ll be well-rewarded.

What’s so special about it? This location and the other four in Arizona and Utah were the first resorts in the world to be DarkSky-certified by DarkSky International, a global authority on light pollution. Knowing this, we reserved the Stargazer Tent, which has a clear panel above the bed for observing the night sky.

Note: Under Canvas has ADA-accessible tents, but they may or may not meet individual needs.

On the first night, we were stunned; it felt as if we could reach up and touch the stars. Constellations bedazzled the black backdrop, and the hazy river of the Milky Way was brilliant. On the second night, cloud cover thwarted our view, but that’s nature for you. Regardless, if the Stargazer is available, book it.

Food, Drinks, and Entertainment

Food and drinks were another delight at Under Canvas. After checking in, we stashed our bags and made a beeline back to the spacious outdoor dining and firepit area to enjoy a charcuterie platter with a glass of wine (for me) and a craft beer (for him).

The presentation and quality of all the dishes we tried were exceptional. They came on spartan metal camp trays, but everything was delectable—particularly the chimichurri-dressed skirt steak and asparagus, breakfast burrito, and Hawaiian roll French toast, the latter of which was on the kids’ menu but gladly given to me with a smile.

Note: No food is allowed in the tents so that bugs won’t be enticed, but we saw other guests enjoying food and drinks they brought, including bags of chips and bottles of wine, at the outdoor tables. Also, pets are welcome but must remain with their people.

Entertainment, activities, service, and camaraderie are also top-notch. The first night, we watched a local singer/guitarist perform a range of rock and blues and then made s’mores on a firepit. Breathing in the fresh air under the stars instead of holed up inside a stale hotel was a treat.

The next night, we made s’mores again while chatting and drinking wine with newlyweds from England on their honeymoon. (Many other international guests were there, too, as we deduced from hearing various languages.) Yoga, bingo, coloring cornhole, and tons of board games were available, too. 

Is Under Canvas For You?

I hesitate to mention the downsides, which hopefully won’t deter you from this breathtaking experience, but Under Canvas might not be for everyone.

As the name implies, you stay in sturdy tents without electricity, central heat, or air conditioning. It was chilly early in the morning. However, there’s a wood stove and battery packs for charging fans, lanterns, and cell phones. You pull a chain for the shower and hold it down (or, like I did, ask your spouse to hold it) so the water keeps running.

The tents have zippers, but you will see bugs. There’s no wifi, though we had a strong cellular signal (so we could keep our Wordle streaks going). You might get roused from a deep sleep at sunrise, as I did, by a cacophony of Cassin’s vireo.

And it’s not cheap: We paid just as much or more to stay at Under Canvas than at a hotel in the park or Tusayan; the total was just over $400 a night with an AARP discount.

Note: Under Canvas is only open from mid-April through late October.

What to Do at the Grand Canyon

Even if you’re not up for hiking the Grand Canyon—something that takes planning and several days of strenuous hiking—there’s much to do while visiting the Grand Canyon.

Renting Bikes at the Grand Canyon

Unlike my previous trip on the Grand Canyon Railway, Eric and I had more time to explore the Grand Canyon than in April. About a week before we left, he suggested we tour the park on bikes rather than riding the often-crowded park buses. I can’t stress enough what a delight this is; e-bikes make it easy even if you’re remotely fit.

I reserved e-bikes ($75 for five hours) online from Bright Angel Bicycles near the visitors’ center. We started at 9 AM and rode to Yaki Point, back past the bike shop and visitors’ center, and to Mohave Point, stopping at lookouts. Thanks to the bikes’ turbo boost, we could’ve made it to Hermit’s Rest but had to return for a lunch reservation at El Tovar.

The rush of seeing the canyon without the obstruction of a window or the commotion of fellow bus passengers was priceless. Feeling the wind, hearing birdsong, and smelling the junipers and pines made me feel much more connected to the splendor of the canyon and its environs.

Eating and Exploring at the Grand Canyon

We returned the bikes and grabbed soft drinks at the bike shop, which also sells sandwiches and more for your ride. Then we drove to Grand Canyon Village and enjoyed a sit-down lunch at the gorgeous El Tovar dining room, where rough-hewn beams and Native American murals evoke a sense of history and tradition.

My beef stroganoff and Eric’s steelhead trout tostada could not have been more satisfying, and service was punctual and friendly.

We also admired Indian arts and crafts at Mary Colter’s Hopi House, which shouldn’t be missed, but we didn’t have time for much more because we had to be in Tusayan by 4:15 PM to catch the sunset tour with Grand Canyon Jeep Tours & Safaris. It’s the only company licensed to drive into the canyon via the back roads through the Kaibab Forest—a big plus so you don’t get caught in the lineup to enter.

Tip: Book this or other tours directly through the company instead of via Under Canvas to save a few bucks.

Our guide, Werner, took us to several lookouts that we didn’t visit on our bike ride because they were too far away. He imparted a wealth of information about the area’s wildlife, history, and geology while keeping it fun.

On our drive, we saw deer and elk, and he passed around photos of mountain lions, javelina, and other Arizona critters. Toward the end, a monsoon blew in and the winds whipped us, so we didn’t see a sunset. Again, nature is unpredictable.

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Is One Day Enough at the Grand Canyon?

One day isn’t nearly enough to fully experience the Grand Canyon. The in-and-out Grand Canyon Railway tour is a decent “beginner trip,” but Jennifer and I wished we’d stayed overnight. Eric and I were in the park from 8:30 AM to 7:30 PM, but didn’t do the Yavapai Geology Museum, music festival, cultural demonstrations, or “night sky” educational events. I recommend at least two full days and three nights in the park—more if you do any hiking.

However, one day at the Grand Canyon is better than none. Both quirky trips offered spectacular views, fascinating information, and lively entertainment. The train gave us a tiny slice of the canyon, but it’s relaxing and easy, particularly if you’re with kids or older folks. The glamping resort was a refreshing change of pace from frenetic hotels and crowded restaurants, and the e-bike ride was glorious. They’re each great ways to get a different perspective on this natural wonder.

We invite you to explore Wander With Wonder for more of our favorite things to do at the Grand Canyon and more destinations we love to explore in Arizona.

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