Ca. 90 minutes by ferry from Newfoundland is a little piece of France. Not French Canada, but France proper.
At 47°N 56°W, we’re a whopping 4700km from the French mainland – and a mere 25km from Canada. This little enclave is the last remaining bit of what was once a vast French empire in North America.
It is an interesting mix of French charm and rugged, windy shores, this place. In fact, you could be forgiven for thinking you have been transported to Bretagne. But you have not. You are in Saint-Pierre et Miquelon.
I am weirdly drawn to coastal towns in the new world, towns with an edge-of-the-world vibe. They are a bit rough, and frequently chilly and windy. You see the choppy waves from the top of hills, often steep. Sometimes, the houses look like they have been built quickly, there is a plank town feel to it, a settler kind of place. Several towns in maritime Canada feel like that to me. As does Valparaiso. (I reckon Ushuaia does, too. Cannot wait to find out.)
Now, imagine such a pioneer built, timber board town with a French flair. Et voilà: You have Saint-Pierre.
Saint-Pierre et Miquelon
The Suroit brings me to Saint-Pierre on the first day of September. It is a Sunday, and the very beginning of autumn, season of winds, of movement, of mystery. My favourite.
The ferry from Fortune in Newfoundland crosses the Bay of St. Lawrence almost daily. Almost. There is no ferry on Mondays, it turns out. This affects my visit, since almost everything in Saint-Pierre seems to be closed on Mondays, as well.
Why does France have a corner in North America?
France, through one Jacques Cartier, simply took possession of this archipelago in 1535, because that is how it was done back then. But since Britain and France were both playing the power game up in these parts, the Brits would occasionally occupy the islands. For the next few centuries, they went back and forth between French and British hands, until 1816, when France took over for the final time. Considering this was just after Wellington beat Bonaparte on the fields of Waterloo, it is surprising the Brits let the French keep anything at all. They must have had some seriously skilled negotiators, the French.
The Tricolore has flown over these islands ever since. In a 1958 referendum, 98% of the islands’ residents voted against independence, and they remain a France d’outre-mer, an overseas territory of France.
Fish – and whisky
Now, Jacques may have been the one to name the island after the patron saint of fishers, but he was not the first to arrive on these shores. French and Irish folks had been coming for quite a while, catching cod in the Grand Banks, one of the richest fishing grounds in the world. But the islands were first settled in the late 1600s, when 700 fishing families arrived from Bretagne, Normandie and Basque Country. The present residents are their descendants.
The history of Saint-Pierre et Miquelon is strongly connected to fishing. It has been the lifeblood of this archipelago all along – and still is to a great extent – although various events in the 20th century have forced the islanders to restructure the local economy, not least a cod moratorium in 1992, imposed by Canada, as a consequence of over-fishing. Tourism is becoming increasingly important.
It must have been a rough life. Fishing is hard work even today, and often dangerous. That was doubly true centuries ago: the oppressive fog, the harsh storms, the mighty currents, the treacherous rocky shores. Since 1816, nearly 700 boats have shipwrecked in these waters. Most of them are along the shores of the sandy Langlade isthmus.
Memorial to fishers lost at sea
Saint-Pierre harbour
The Saint-Pierre et Miquelon archipelago
Saint-Pierre et Miquelon comprises 8 islands and islets, a total of 244 km², with Saint-Pierre and Miquelon as the major two. An estimated 5,800 people call this little corner of France home. Most of them live on Saint-Pierre – and in Saint-Pierre – the administrative and commercial centre and capital city.
And this is where I spend a few autumn days, amongst colourful houses along narrow streets, in a distinctly French atmosphere.
The architecture does not look typically French to me, but not quite the same as in neighbouring Newfoundland either. Many of the buildings are from the mid-1800s.
You will notice the vibrant colours. A local I chat with tells me this is a tradition from the old days: so the fishermen coming home from long days at sea (possibly followed by a long stop at a bar), would recognise their homes – similar to the story of the colourful houses in Burano.
Night-time wander through the streets of Saint-Pierre
They are not big on advertising here…
Is it a shop? A restaurant? Someone’s house? All of the above?
… most barely have signs on the buildings, so it is not always easy to tell.
My favourite photo from Saint-Pierre is this one:
Need clothes for a 6-year-old? Help yourself!
Saint-Pierre et Miquelon: culture and cuisine – France in the new world
Saint-Pierre town has shops, restaurants, and museums that reflect the islands’ rich history and culture. Unfortunately, I arrive early Sunday evening and leave Tuesday morning. And with everything closed on Mondays, well, the town is not exactly buzzing.
Not sure it buzzes on other weekdays either. This is not Paris; there are no pavement cafes, no grand monuments or Grands Magasins. But even though I am thousands of kilometres from the mainland, there is no doubt I am in France. The residents speak French, they are citizens of France (and the EU), and the currency is the Euro. Even the electric plugs are standard European.
The most tell-tale sign of all, though, is the cuisine.
Le Cafe Solidaire, just by the cathedral – cosy breakfast place. With a sign!
Croissants, baguettes, crepes, galettes – all are easily available. As are fine wines and delicious cheeses. But the starring role belongs to all the gifts from the ocean.
The abundance of fish, and especially cod, is what attracted the French settlers here – and this unassuming everyday fish is still a staple, both in the cuisine and in the culture of Saint-Pierre et Miquelon.
The cuisine is so much more than cod, though. The chef at my lodgings creates magic with Coquilles Saint-Jacques. I devour them so fast I completely forget to take a single photo. Hands down the best scallops I have ever had. And I have eaten my fair share of scallops.
At Le feu de braise (also with a sign!), the waiter persuades me to try something that is not even on the menu: salmon with coconuts, in a curry sauce. Not bad. But their plain and simple filet de saumon grille is perfection.
Saumon au curry à la noix de coco
Those opening hours
Restaurant opening hours in Saint-Pierre is a story on its own. Lunch is served strictly between 12.00 and 14.00, so do not come traipsing around at 11.30 or 15.00. And you might as well eat, as shops are closed during lunch hours anyway. Dinner begins at 19.00, and you had better book a table, otherwise, you might as well forget about it. Or so they say. Strangely, as I sit down at my pre-booked table at Le feu de braise at precisely 19.00, it is only half-full. But as the night moves along, people drift in, as if they do not understand the concept of being on time. Yep! I am in France.
If you are dying of hunger and you missed the lunch interval, there is still hope.
Things to see in Saint-Pierre
La Batterie de la Pointe aux Canons and the lighthouse
Once there was a fort here at the Batterie de la Pointe aux Canons, built in 1690 to defend the islands from the Brits. 12 years later, the Brits destroyed it.
After the end of the US War of Independence, the leader of the Saint-Pierre et Miquelon colony wanted to turn the islands into a fortified military base, but Louis XVI said no. Much later, long after Louis had his head chopped off, France sent funds to build a small defensive battery here. Today, there are four canons in this little park. Fortunately, peace has reigned in Saint-Pierre and Miquelon, so the canons have never been needed for defence. They have only been used to fire salutes on national holidays and to greet arriving ships.
You can wander around the four canons, and touch them…
– and the Model 24Q torpedo from 1924.
Museums
The islands’ tourism bureau recommends visiting L’Arche Musée et Archives and Musée Heritage, the two museums on Saint-Pierre. Both would no doubt be interesting to explore. Sadly for me, the Arch is closed in 2024 – and the Heritage is closed on Mondays, which means I miss out on a deep dive into the history of the islands… fishing, smuggling and other exciting pursuits – even a guillotine shipped in from France to execute a poor fellow in 1889. His sin: killing a man whilst drunk. The film La Veuve de Saint-Pierre (Widow of Saint-Pierre) from 2000, starring Juliette Binoche and Daniel Auteuil, is inspired by this story.
Fermé
At least Saint-Pierre Cathedral is open…
Charles de Gaulle donated the stained glass windows
Not Miquelon –
The island of Miquelon is larger but with a much smaller population. It is a hiking paradise, with rugged landscape, forest, cliffs, windswept beaches, stunning views, and lots of wildlife, including wild horses! Also, if you are into bird watching, Miquelon and neighbour island, Langlade, are prime spots, especially during the migration season when thousands of birds stop over.
Trouble is, there is only one daily ferry between Saint-Pierre and Miquelon, leaving at 09.00 and returning at night.
It is pouring cats and dogs! An all-day hike in the pelting rain does not seem all that tempting, so with a bit of a heavy heart, I decide to skip Miquelon. Those wild horses, though….
– and not Île aux Marins
I have the same trouble with Île aux Marins. Once a bustling fishing community and home to 700 residents, this tiny island is now uninhabited, a ghost town! There is eight historic buildings, a church, a cemetery, the former homes of the original settlers – it is practically an outdoor museum, which would be very interesting to explore. And, there are rumours of parts of ship wrecks on the beach.
Île aux Marins is a 10-minute boat trip from Saint-Pierre with Le p’tit gravier. But whaddyaknow: not on Mondays (argh!) My only view of this intriguing little island then, is from the ferry deck on the way back to Canada.
Tuesday morning and Le P’tit Gravier is back in business
Saint-Pierre et Miquelon practicals
Getting there and getting around
You can fly from various cities in Canada, or from Paris in summer (5 hours) with Air Saint-Pierre. Or you can take the almost-daily SPM ferry between Fortune in Newfoundland and Saint-Pierre – the crossing takes 1½ hours and costs 45€ one way/73€ return (as at September 2024).
Getting around Saint-Pierre town on foot is easy. The town is small, compact and very walkable, even in the rain. You could actually walk around most of the island if you wanted; it is only 26 km2. Alternatively, you can rent a bike or a car, or take a taxi. I walked. Not around the whole island (that rain!), but for a couple of hours, getting some steps in – past horses grazing, a beach, fishing boats out in the bay, and all-round great views.
Saint-Pierre sleeps
Accommodations are a bit hard to come by at a moment’s notice, and I imagine even more difficult in the high season (northern summer). I took a chance and booked ferry tickets without having a room sorted. It took a whole lot of désolé, nous n’avons pas de chambres disponibles, before I finally got lucky.
Hotel Robert to the rescue, also known as Hotel du Vieux Port, which tells you the location is ideal. It is a 3-minute walk from the port. And those Coquilles St Jacques! Also, Al Capone used to stay here!
That plank town feel
Finally: plan, peeps!
As you will have noticed, I did not have great timing here. I tend to travel a bit, erm… impulsively, shall we say – and this trip was no exception. Normally, it works well, leaving room for surprises, mostly fun ones. However, if there is one place that requires planning ahead, this is it. (On the plus side, that gives me a good excuse – several good excuses – to return.)
But do as I say, not as I did: plan ahead! And book ahead! July or August are the best times to visit, I hear: July for Bastille Day, and August for Fête des Basques, in memory of the Basque settlers. Both sound like fun and lively happenings.
Goodbye from the ferry port
À la prochaine fois, Saint-Pierre et Miquelon – onwards to the place where Vikings once roamed!
Disclosure? Nope, nothing sponsored, nothing to disclose.
Saint-Pierre et Miquelon: a little piece of France in North America is a post from Sophie’s World