When checking flights for our recent trip on the Iron Ore Train, we chose to go through Casablanca; flights (from Europe) are relatively reasonable. And to ensure everything would work out without stress, delayed bags and the like, we decided to spend a few days in the city with the iconic name.
Now, what to do with 3 days in town? Pre-trip research indicated disturbingly many think Casa isn’t all that. It is a big city, 3.5 million people in the urban area alone, with skyscrapers, traffic, noise; in short, a hectic, cold concrete jungle, with serious social extremes, a city without charm and without soul. So they said.
Well, I am here to disprove all that negativity. After 3 days, my conclusion is that Casablanca has a lot to offer, in sights, sounds and all round fun. I could easily go back, (possibly even to that slightly seedy nightclub where we meet up. Read on!)
Without further ado, here are
11 things you’ll love in Casablanca
1. La Corniche
I like corniches, those long promenades along the ocean, perfect for a lazy stroll on a hot day. Ah, the gentle sea breeze, the sound of lapping waves, the ocean views, the people watching. Casa’s corniche has eateries/drinkeries, night clubs, cocktail bars, juice bars, and street performers at night. And sunsets, of course!
Beach art
At one end of the corniche is
2. Phare el-Hank (lighthouse)
Phare el-Hank has guided ships safely to port from this rocky promontory since 1919. It sends a mighty beam, reaching 30 nautical miles out, from its 51-metre-high tower. What this lighthouse must have seen through the last 105 years!
Phare el-Hank up close
You would surely get an amazing view after slogging up the 256 steps, and the lighthouse is open to visitors. Or so they say. But not for us. Not today. There is no one here to let us in. Rumour has it, it has been closed since Covid.
3. Hassan II Mosque
Also along the corniche, is Hassan II Mosque. I reckon this must be the mosque with the most stunning location in the world, right there on the Atlantic Ocean. As for further records, Hassan II has the tallest minaret in the world – 210 metres, and is also one of the largest mosques in the world, with room for 25,000 inside and another 80,000 in the courtyard. (Wembley has room for 90,000. Just sayin’.)
If you want to enter and you are not Muslim, the only way in, is on a 45-minute tour, offered several times a day. We did not (on account of so much to do, so little time) – and missed out on a whole lot of vastness and grandeur: a retracting roof that lets the sunlight in, cool marble floors, intricate tile work, giant chandeliers and gold leaves in the ceiling – and, most regrettably, seeing the ocean from inside a mosque.
4. Tahiti Beach: unwinding in style
Along the corniche, we also spot a few resorts down by the beach.
This needs checking out, so we stop by Tahiti Beach Club, a chic hang-out for stylish Casawis since the 1940s along Ain Diab Beach: pristine sandy shores, 8 swimming pools, surf school, sun loungers, cabanas, children’s playgrounds, gourmet restaurants, even a conference venue –
– in short, a posh place, with an entrance fee to match.
They are not too happy with picture snapping here (which is understandable), so all you’ll get here is fish frying in the embers and my mint tea.
Continuing along the water, you do not want to miss
5. The lively fishing port
Casablanca’s fishing port is on main street, close to Casa-Port train station. It is a bustling hotbed of activity, and a vital economic lifeline, supporting thousands of local fishermen and traders who bring in the goods every day. I like the port’s dynamic atmosphere, and the lively chit-chat and laughter amongst those who make their living from the sea. So interesting to get a glimpse of their daily lives. And they are happy to chat with us.
The fishing port with the Hassan II Mosque in the distance
6. Marché Central
Since we’re talking about fish, you may want to have a look at Casablanca’s fish market at the lowkey Marché Central, near the Central Square. Stalls overflow with fresh fish and seafood, as well as horse meat and amlou (the ubiquitous Moroccan almond butter infused with argan oil), woven baskets, flowers and more.
Nearby are restaurants where you can have your chosen seafood cooked to order.
Feeling sorry for the poor creatures, not gonna lie.
From one market to the next, here is
7. The old medina
In contrast to the modern metropolis that Casablanca has become, the old medina is less polished, but also more charming. From the 1800s, it has white-washed, narrow streets and alleyways, each one telling a story.
There is an open-air market, and artisans’ workshops housed in ancient stone buildings with decorated doorways. As with most medinas, you’ll find a mish-mash of pretty much everything: spices, clothes, antiques, wooden statues, hand-made soap, 1001-nights type lamps, vintage memorabilia, etc.
Photogenic doors and a local lad/future football star –
– and this beaut
The old medina is compact and fairly easy to navigate; you’ll find it between the fishing port and the mosque, across the road.
8. Quartier Habous – the new(er) medina
The Habous Quarter, also known as the New Medina, was built by the French in the 1930s, in a mix of French colonial and traditional Moroccan architecture. Expect souqs with all the usual suspects – spices, food, everyday items, traditional arts and crafts, footie t-shirts, various knock-offs, etc.
Next to the quarter is
9. Mahkama du Pacha
Once this was the pasha’s courthouse, now it is something that sounds far less interesting: government offices. The building is a great example of ancient Moorish building techniques, with tiles, carved stones, wood, stucco, marble, and calligraphy. Sadly, most of that is inside, which you can only enter with a guide and with written permission – and/or possibly with a bit of baksheesh. We didn’t.
Also next to the quarter is
10. The Royal Palace
One of four royal palaces in the country, this is yet another building you cannot enter, but only get a glimpse of through the heavy gates.
Lush gardens.
And very many flags.
I have already mentioned the grand mosque. That other religion has some noteworthy prayer houses, too.
11. L’eglise Notre Dame de Lourdes
Our Lady of Lourdes is a European modernist church from 1954, with stained glass windows bringing in the light in technicolour. There is a replica of the holy grotto at Lourdes in the garden where you can light candles. It all provides a serene space for reflection in the middle of a busy city, I’m guessing. But I don’t actually know; we could not get past the gates. Getting to be a refrain that.
Love both these structures; can’t decide which looks the most fabulous
12. L’eglise du Sacre-Coeur
Also very cool, is the 1930s Cathedral of the Sacred Heart. Gothic, mixed with Art Deco, one of my very favourite architectural styles. And so white, it almost hurts your eyes. These days, it is no longer used as a church, but instead a venue for cultural events, exhibitions, filming location and the like. We are lucky and bump into a caretaker who lets us in for a peek. Yay!
… aaaand, we’re in!
Next to Sacre-Coeur is
13. Parque de la Ligue Arabe
The French colonisers are responsible for this large green, gorgeous, palm-fringed, flowery, water-sparkly, symmetrical space from 1918 – the whole 30 hectares of it (ca 75 acres for you metric-challenged ones). 100 years later, the renovation cost 100 million dirham (ca €24 mill /USD 27 mill).
The Arab League Park isn’t the only public space in town. There’s also
14. Place Mohammad V
Casablanca’s central square has elegant Moorish architecture from the Twenties (not these 20s, but the roaring ones), with white and gold facades, a fountain – and pigeons. And a statue of King Mohammad V, of course, key player in Morocco’s fight for independence. Around the square are some marvellous buildings, like the Palais de Justice (left), and the Wilaya (Hotel de Ville – with the clock tower), reflecting the city’s colonial past with the Art Deco/Moorish inspired style.
Also on Place Mohammad V, the Art Nouveau central post office is in operation as an actual post office.
Another main square/busy roundabout, next to the old medina is
15. Place des Nations Unies
Surrounded by cafes, shops, more palm trees, pigeons and interesting architecture – such as an old colonial clock tower and a geodesic dome above an underground passage – this square represents the world. Watch out for the trams.
16. Art Deco, Casablanca style
Walking around Casablanca, you will spot cool design all over the place. We are in the Art Deco capital of Morocco, after all. In the 1930s, the city was practically a canvas for French architects experimenting with Art Deco styles, blending it with traditional Moroccan design. Here are a few Art Deco buildings I like:
From left to right: the Bendahan Building, a house on Blvd de la Resistance, the Imcama Building, and Casa Mon Amour
So, that concludes the 11 things you’ll love in Casablanca – and then some. Let’s just call it 11+.
– But… wait! That heading! You promised Casablanca Days and NIGHTS. Give!
– Well, we are past 11 things already. I don’t know…
– !!!
– Oh, all right, here we go: Rick’s Cafe, ’cause it is iconic and cannot be skipped, and some of our favourite spots to go for
Food and fun in Casablanca
17. Rick’s Cafe
This is more than just a cafe, of course. In this lovely traditional riad, Rick Blaine’s famous nightclub in the 1940s film Casablanca, has been recreated: arcades, balconies, grand piano, Art Deco decor n’all. Of course we want to visit (and pretend the movie wasn’t shot entirely in LA). Unfortunately, the owners have decided to take a holiday just when we are in town. Unfortunately for us, that is. I know enough restaurateurs to appreciate that holidays are hard to come by – and well deserved.
Closed.
No memories of Rick or Ilsa for us. No Ingrid Bergman or Humphrey Bogart. The closest we come to anything Casablanca inspired, is this sign on the wall in the restaurant in our hotel (Sofitel Tour Blanche).
18. La Bodega
Lively Spanish style tapas/sports bar, with live music and salsa dancing. Energetic vibe and very good food. When we were there, they were getting ready for a Red Bull-sponsored Bikers’ Night. They expected 200 bikers in, so we made sure to get out in time.
19. Bondi Coffee kitchen
Aussie-owned trendy café in the Gauthier district, known for artisanal coffees and organic, healthy, locally sourced, very good food. Perfect for brunch on those days you can’t be bothered to get up in time for breakfast.
20. Le Kimmy’z
A stylish cocktail bar/lounge, and also restaurant, with good food and creative drinks. Very lively atmosphere with live music, DJ performances and dancing, some of it on the bar counter. We are in Casa whilst the UEFA EURO 2024 is happening, so there’s also footie on big screens.
We spend many hours at Le Kimmy’z, practically our regular hang-out in Casa.
21. Casa Fish
Casa Fish is located on Place Ahmed El Bidaoui, a cute little square by the Old Medina, specialising in fresh goodies from the nearby fishing port. There is a great rooftop area with so many colours, it is impossible to be in anything other than a good mood here.
22. Kick Off
Where else to get a proper look at the England – Slovakia match than in a proper football pub? Various comfort food is on offer (burgers, beer and the like)
Looks like England is winning
23. The night club in Hotel Volubilis
Up for a stab at Casa’s nightlife? Then look no further.
Flying in from different countries, we meet up around midnight in a random place the guys have found. It is loud, shady and very interesting.
Here is what reviewers say: ‘A blend of traditional Moroccan ambiance and modern entertainment,’ ‘eclectic music, lively dance floor, wide range of beverages’, ‘very, very noisy’, ‘dim lighting and plush seating’, ‘intimate yet energetic atmosphere’, ‘smelly, musty and heavy on the cigarette smoke’, ‘nightly fights outside’, ‘strange men constantly coming in and out’, ‘a memorable experience’.
Oddly, it is all true. (Except the fighting. At least, I didn’t notice any.) And I will add friendly, chatty staff. All in all, an intriguing experience.
Casablanca practicals
Casablanca’s tramway is new, efficient, clean and cheap. We did not try it, as we walked almost everywhere. We did try the little red petit taxis, another budget-friendly option, and practical at night. They work like Uber Pool and has room for 3 passengers. Perfect when you are, well, 3.
There are lots of walking tours available, with various themes, and many of them are free. Those tours can be useful to get your bearings in a new place. That said, we ended up finding our way around on our own, it’s a fairly straightforward city to wander.
From the city centre to Casablanca Mohammad V International Airport, you can take the express bus (1 hr), a taxi (35 min), or the train (45 min).
Bonus (I think): The Tyre Lion – In Terminal 1 at the airport, there is an odd sculpture of a lion, made entirely of recycled rubber.
Casa-Port railway station, the Tyre Lion in Terminal 1, and this little guy hiding under the chairs there.
Photos by Andrew Morland, Tom Brothwell and myself.
Casablanca Days – and Nights is a post from Sophie’s World