Just a couple of hours from Abidjan, Assinie has long been Côte d’Ivoire’s favourite coastal escape, and Coucoué Lodge captures everything people love about it. Between the calm lagoon and the Atlantic Ocean, this place almost feels like a private tropical village. Palm trees sway, boats drift quietly by, sunshine on my shoulder, salt in the air… you get the idea.
First impressions
We have ended up in Côte d’Ivoire to leave. Well, sort of. This is where the cheapest homeward flights depart from, so this is where we wrap up this West African journey.
I will have to return to Côte d’Ivoire for a closer look later. But for now, since we are here, we want to experience at least a little bit. And since it is the end of the trip, preferably something not too strenuous, especially since I have been out of sorts, coughing and sneezing and freezing (in 40°!) for almost a week.
Arriving at Félix-Houphouët-Boigny International Airport (what a tongue-twister) late in the afternoon, I’m happy to find a well-stocked pharmacy at arrivals, and I come out with cold meds, good advice, and feeling cared for. And with new glasses, since I forgot the old ones on board. Again!
Traffic in Africa
We decide to skip sightseeing in Abidjan, and set off directly for Assinie.
I’ve been pleasantly surprised about traffic this time in Africa. Cotonou gets a special mention. In Benin‘s major city/de-facto capital, cars actually stop for red lights, motorcyclists wear helmets, and walking feels as safe as in Europe. But here in Côte d’Ivoire, it’s back to the no rules/no consideration that seems to be the default in most of Africa. (I’m looking at you, Entebbe. And many others.) I’m reminded once again that terrorism is not the biggest danger in Africa. Traffic is.
Coucoué Lodge
I can feel it the minute I enter the lobby: peace, quiet and a lagoon stretching before me. Right away, I am stepping into a slower rhythm.
Bringing the outdoors in
The path to my bungalow is framed with lush greenery. Other bungalows are tucked away in the gardens, hidden almost.
Inside, it is spacious, charmingly rustic, and facing the water. No ultra-modern minimalism here at Coucoué Lodge, folks. It is old-world classic and relaxed.
Pools, food & lazy afternoons
There are two swimming pools: one is social and lively, the other is calm – ideal if you want to lounge about with a book. Something for every mood. Afternoons here tend to stretch out beautifully. A swim maybe, a drink or two, maybe a nap under a palm tree…
Dinner is in the overwater restaurant built on a pontoon. Very nice, especially at sunset. On the menu is Ivorian specialties, grilled seafood, and much more. And lovely views over the lagoon.
This is also where you have breakfast, by the way –
– or long, drawn-out cups of morning tea, with a view.
Spot the boat out there on the lagoon?
Lagoon-to-ocean, free of charge
One of my favourite unexpected details is the boat transfer across the lagoon to the beach side.
Because the lodge sits along the lagoon, the Atlantic beach is just across the water. Instead of walking around or having to arrange for a car to take me, I simply hop onto one of the lodge’s small boats, and within minutes I’m gliding across to the sandy oceanfront. The boat ride is quick, scenic, free for guests, and adds a touch of adventure to a simple beach day.
The Atlantic Ocean is just the other side of the palms here
There’s just something about stepping onto a boat in beach wear, crossing a calm lagoon, and hopping off into soft sand with the sound of crashing waves ahead of you.
Atlantic beach beauties
On the other side of the lagoon is a bar and a beachside restaurant, where you can dig into wood-fired pizza or grilled fish, with your feet in the sand.
Location, location, location
This is not a super snazzy, ultra-luxury resort. Nothing flashy here, no polished perfection. But if you, like me, are looking for a friendly, lively atmosphere, scenery, and relaxation, Coucoué Lodge Assinie delivers.
And the setting – lagoon on one side, ocean on the other – it just can’t be beat!
Assinie has a rhythm, and at Coucoué Lodge, you get to live inside it.
And now I’m going to find a place of my own to watch the sun dip into the lagoon –
– and try not to think about the looong way home.
All photos by David Røgler and yours truly.
Disclosure? Nope, nothing to disclose here. All expenses have come out of my own, ever slimmer, wallet.
Coucoué Lodge Assinie: lazy days at the lagoon is a post from Sophie’s World