You know I love old libraries. But how about bookshops?
Amongst some truly gorgeous ones I have seen, El Ateneo Grand Splendid is in a class of its own.
Wandering around in Buenos Aires a January day two years ago, I was not expecting a bookshop to stop me in my tracks, but that is exactly what happened.
In the heart of Buenos Aires’ snazzy Recoleta barrio (neighbourhood) stands a place where literature, architecture, and history converge in spectacular style. We are inside an old theatre. And not just any theatre, but a seriously glorious one. More than just a bookshop, El Ateneo is an experience,
From grand theatre to literary temple
Originally opened in 1919 as the Teatro Grand Splendid, the building once hosted opera performances, ballet, and tango shows during Argentina’s cultural golden age. Legendary performers, including the country’s very own Carlos Gardel, graced its stage. When the theatre was transformed into a bookshop in the early parts of this century, the renovation did not eradicate the original splendour, but rather preserved it.
The moment I walk in, I see books, books and more books! All filled with stories waiting to be discovered. Did I just step into a dream?
This is a shop unlike any other. Ornate, gilded balconies wrap around the space, bookshelves have replaced the old audience seats, and a frescoed ceiling watches over it all. It feels more like wandering through a cultural landmark than shopping for books. And I suppose that is just what it is.
I wander up to the balconies for a bird’s-eye view of the main floor – and spot… a cafe?
Behind the crimson curtains that once framed live performances on the stage, I can now have a coffee, whilst looking out at the shop and at the ceiling. A moment of quiet enchantment!
Even non-readers stop and stare
What makes El Ateneo special is not only the books for sale, but what the shop represents: Buenos Aires’ deep literary identity. This is a city of writers, readers, and philosophers.
And are there any spooky stories? Well, some say it still carries the ghosts of performances past. Staff and visitors sometimes mention an uncanny feeling late in the evening, especially on the upper balconies, though nothing officially documented. If there are spirits there, they seem content to linger quietly among the books and velvet curtains.
A Bookstore Designed to Be Explored
People mill about, but without stress. Despite the monumental surroundings, it feels oddly intimate. Welcoming, rather than intimidating. This is one of those places where you want to stay longer.
Not that into books? El Ateneo is still worth your while. It is easy to explore, and genuinely memorable. Hard as it is, I leave without buying a book (carry-on only), but with a big smile and about thirty-five photos on my phone.
I love the idea that bookshops can still be magical in a digital world. El Ateneo reminds us reading is not only about information or entertainment, but about place and atmosphere, about connection. It also reminds me that stories – and beautiful buildings – are meant to be lived in.
If you are in Buenos Aires, don’t skip this place.
World at a Glance is a series of short articles here on Sophie’s World, portraying curious, evocative, happy, sad or wondrous, unexpected little encounters.
El Ateneo Grand Splendid: possibly the most beautiful bookshop in the world is a post from Sophie’s World