Niger: Markets, mosques and the mighty Niger River
The Sahel, July 2025
From Burkina Faso, we move on to Niger.
Of the 4 countries on this journey through the Sahel, Niger is the one I have been warned against the most. Even intrepid traveller friends have been saying don’t go.
Diori Hamani Airport (NIM): clean and green
Imagine my surprise then, when it turns out to be the calmest of them all.
Most of the former French colonies in West Africa want western countries to stay out of their business, and France in particular. Even through colonialism ended in the 1960s for most of them, the clammy hands of the West have been present, through companies these days, robbing the countries of their natural riches, particularly minerals. In West Africa, Burkina Faso’s young leader is a role model. They all want a Traoré – to help keep African resources in Africa. And Niger is no exception.
In fact, Niger has taken the anti-French sentiment further than most: the French embassy has been closed since January 2024, and French citizens are not allowed to enter the country. All the warnings I have received about travelling in Niger have included some version of ‘they might think you are French, and show no mercy.’
Niamey
Our fixer in Niger is Abdoul, a friendly young man with great ambitions. He speaks English effortlessly, and brings us to Niamey’s English club, where students of all ages meet to practice speaking the language. We all discuss our own experiences learning English, as well as the topics of the day.
Today’s discussion topic: friendship
Niamey is a quiet city on the Niger River. It’s not your typical holiday hotspot, by any definition, but that’s what makes this sun-drenched capital special. I feel like I’ve had a peek into something rare. And real. Raw authenticity. And serene sunsets.
It certainly isn’t chasing tourism, this city. We don’t see any other Europeans (that we can identify at least).
Grand mosquée de Niamey – the Ghadaffi Mosque
We stop at the Grand Mosque, a striking structure with its golden dome and slim minaret. It was built in the 1970s and paid for by none other than Muammar al-Ghadaffi, then leader of Libya, Niger’s neighbour to the north. It is probably the most beautiful building in Niamey, a landmark as well as a house of worship, from where the call to prayer echoes across the dusty skyline.
Boubou Hama and Niger’s National Museum
The national museum is named after Boubou Hama, teacher, writer, politician, and the first President of Niger’s National Assembly (parliament) after the country’s independence from France. This old-style museum has several pavilions and a curiously interesting mix of history, science, economics, music, nuclear energy, artisan manufacturing and sale.
There is also a tragic little zoo here, where the animals barely have space to move. No other word for it than torture. Seeing it feels like being stabbed in the eyes. A refurbishment promised in 2021 would see better living conditions for the animals, but as of July 2025, it has yet to happen. I’d advise staying away from this traumatic sight.
It is home to Niger’s national museum of African Art, and to a collection of ethnological, archaeological and cultural artefacts, including traditional houses in various architectural styles.
Next to the museum is a cultural centre, and a centre for linguistic and historical studies.
What appears to be an impromptu theatrical performance is going on outside the museum.
There is also a crafts market, where you can watch artisans work and buy their goods.
Painters, leatherworkers, sculptors, and potters at work in the museum grounds
Uranium in Niger
The two most interesting exhibits deal with uranium and dinosaurs.
Huge uranium deposits were discovered in Niger in the 1960s, and the country is one of the biggest uranium producers in the world. That’s some significant riches there. With that kind of mineral wealth, a logical question would be: why is Niger the world’s 9th poorest country?
The French state-owned company Orano has owned and operated Niger’s main uranium mines for 50+ years. Just a month ago (in June 2025), as yet another way to sever ties with France, Niger’s military government accused Orano of irresponsible, illegal, and unfair behaviour – and took over the mines, handing control to the Nigerien state-owned company SOPamin.
It will be interesting to see what happens next.
Pavillon de l’uranium
Dinosaurs!
Several species of dinosaur have been found in Niger, out in the vicinity of the fairy-tale city of Agadez, and I know two little kids who would have loved the dinosaur exhibit at the museum (as well as at the departures area at Niamey airport).
Tree of Ténéré
Curious fact: In the museum grounds, is the remains of the Tree of Ténéré, once famous as the loneliest tree in the world, one of only two trees shown on a scale 1:4,000,000 map.
The acacia tree stood in the Ténéré part of the Sahara, and was a landmark on the caravan route through the desert for 300 years. Sadly, it was knocked down by a drunk truck driver from Libya in 1973. The remains of the dead tree was then brought to the museum here in Niamey and set up in a shrine. Its former location in the Sahara is marked by a metal tree.
Colours of nature in Niger: green trees and red earth
Monument du Rond point NIGELEC (The Nigelec Roundabout)
This monument in the middle of one of Niamey’s main traffic roundabouts, holds, as far as I have been able to find out, no historic or cultural significance, but is simply a landmark. It is named after the National Electricity Company of Niger, whose offices are nearby.
I’m weirdly drawn to this egg-shaped sculpture, so here you go: Monument du Rond point NIGELEC, seen from 4 different directions.
I am also weirdly fascinated by these hijab-clad women at a playground.
Swings at sunset
Marché aux Animaux
Next, we go to Niamey’s animal market. The air is thick with dust and the low hum of bargaining voices. Children run barefoot between the pens, herders shout out prices, goats bleat, donkeys bray. It’s like a chaotic soundtrack, oddly captivating.
It’s not for the faint of heart, this market, all gritty and raw. People from all over Niger come to trade livestock in this buzzing, earthy atmosphere. This is the way life works here in the Sahel, and has for centuries.
Vitali’s goat feast is about to happen at last. The guys send photos of a number of goats to ChatGPT, and ask which one looks to be the best. Vitali chooses the goat and Abdoul takes care of the rest.
I can’t even watch!
Along the river
Africa’s third longest river, the Niger, starts its journey in the highlands of Guinea. On its way to the ocean in Nigeria, it passes through Mali and Niger, where it divides Niamey in two. Bridges connect the two sides, including the Chinese funded Pont de l’amitié Chine-Niger (China-Niger Friendship Bridge). As of 2025, like many other nations around the globe, China is Niger’s major trading partner.
We wander on to the bridge for some unusual river views.
And as the sun begins to dip, we take a boat journey along the river.
Hippopotamuses and various types of crocodile live in the river, but all we see today are birds skimming the surface. The golden hour light reflects off the calm water as we drift past fishermen in dugout canoes and children laughing on the riverbank. From the water, Niamey looks peaceful, and the air is just breezy enough to be sleep-inducing.
Nap time on the Niger River
Back at our lodgings, Abdoul has sent Vitali’s goat to the kitchen. It has been properly prepared, stuffed with rice and spices, ready for the feast.
I’m not much of a meat eater, but these guys seem to be enjoying the goat feast.
A few reflections on Niger
In Niger, we only visit Niamey, as anywhere out of town is deemed too unsafe, due to armed rebels. Sounds almost unreal in this quiet atmosphere. Still… the Ennedi Massif and Niger’s expansive desert landscapes, the nomadic Tuareg people and the 1001-Night-markets of Agadez will have to wait for another time.
Favourite eats
In Niamey, we stopped at Cote Jardin. Love these cosy, colourful West African garden restaurants.
This journey through the Sahel covers Mali, Burkina Faso, Niger and Chad.
All photos by Mario Marcosano and myself
Journey through the Sahel: Niger is a post from Sophie’s World