Monica Meadows Trail Guide

For at least six or seven years, the Monica Meadows trail in the Purcell Range sat high on my hiking wish list. I didn’t know much about it, only that it was said to be an unforgettable, very beautiful hike.

Beautiful is an understatement. The Monica Meadows trail, especially in larch season at the end of September is mind-blowing. Beauty is everywhere – in the meadows, around the lakes, along the ridge, and over to the glaciers that make up the Macbeth Icefield. Even as the trail switchbacks up to the meadows, there’s magic in the understory.

The downside is that the hike is popular – even though it starts at the end of a sometimes gnarly 40-kilometre drive on a forest service road – 90 minutes to two hours from Kaslo. If you live in the Nelson – Kaslo – New Denver corridor you can do Monica Meadows as a day hike. Everyone else should consider making it into at a two-day trip or more, especially with all the good hiking nearby.

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The glory of the Monica Meadows trail in larch season

Driving instructions to the trailhead

I really stressed about getting to the Monica Meadows trailhead. Going solo, I knew the 40 km approach on forest service roads would be long and rough. I made it, but chose not to tackle the final 3.5 steep, gnarly kilometres. I was prepared to hike the extra distance (and elevation) to spare myself any grief. In the end, I lucked out with a hitchhike both up and down and while I probably could have driven it, I have zero regrets that I didn’t.

Overall, the Glacier Forest Service Road (FSR) is in good shape. There are a couple of narrow places where I was thankful a car wasn’t coming in the other direction and a few deeper drainage ditches, primarily around bridges as you got higher. The road was incredibly dusty when I drove it – so visibility can be an issue if you’re following a vehicle .

A minivan made it to the top, so some 2WD vehicles can handle the road. You’ll need to decide if yours is one of them. Be sure to gas up in Kaslo before you drive up.

Kaslo to Argenta Road turnoff

From Kaslo drive north on Highway 31 passing through Lardeau. In another 6.1 km turn right (east) onto Argenta Road and set your odometer to zero. In half a kilometre cross a bridge. At 1.2 km continue straight through a 4-way intersection and then almost immediately cross a bridge over Hamill Creek. Continue on Duncan Lakes Road, passing a turnoff to Glacier Creek campground at 11.3 km.

A right onto Glacier Creek Forest Service Road (FSR)

At 12 km go right on signed Glacier Creek FSR (see picture below). Pass a signed fork for the MacBeth Icefield trailhead at 22.5 km, continuing straight.

Left turn to Monica Meadows at intersection with Jumbo Pass

At 36 km reach another signed junction and stay left for Monica Meadows. The next 1.5 km is a bit rougher but very doable. There is a large parking area at the bottom of the final 3.5 km stretch of road to Monica Meadows. That’s where I parked my car. There is also a sign warning that the road ahead is very rough.

It’s slower going the last 3.5 km with more drainage ditches and steep switchbacks. Reach the Monica Meadows trailhead at 41.4 km. The elevation here is 1,810 metres or 5,938 feet.

Be a good person

I chatted with a couple on the ridge above Monica Meadows and they told me that they and countless others were held up because of a very slow driving mini van. There is no excuse for that as there are loads of places along the access road to pull over and let someone pass. Please do it. It will take just a few seconds and save everyone a whole lot of frustration. I personally hate having people on my tail – and make it a practice to pull over.

Look for signage at the start of the Glacier Forest Service Road

You have about 5 km to go when you reach the intersection with Jumbo Pass

Parking was at a premium at the Monica Meadows trailhead – with people still starting up at 3 PM

Location map

Monica Meadows trail summary

Distance: 10 km return

Elevation gain: 653 metres or 2,142 feet

Time needed: 4 – 5 hours depending on how many lakes you visit and how much time you spend enjoying the stunning scenery.

Level of difficulty: Moderate. I saw lots of families doing it with kids as young as about 6 or 7.

Best time to hike: Mid-July after the snow has melted to late-September. Wildflowers put on their best display from mid-July to mid-August, while late September dazzles with golden larches.

Dogs: Allowed. Most people did not have them on a leash, but since it’s a fragile environment please leash your dog.

Wildlife: This is grizzly bear country, so make noise and carry easy to access bear spray. I use a bear spray holster so I don’t set it off accidentally.

Don’t forget: Pack the hiking essentials and practice the seven Leave No Trace principles – especially important in this fragile environment. Be sure to pack out everything you pack in and let someone know where you’re going and when you plan to be back.

Map: I use Organic Maps – a free offline hiking app. The paper map is Duncan Lake 82K/7. Order from a specialty map or outdoor store.

Backcountry camping: Yes. See below for more information.

Mind blowing beauty at the first lake

Monica Meadows hike description

The Monica Meadows trail starts off steeply from the north end of the parking lot. Climb seven switchbacks gaining 400 metres (1,312 feet). They start off long and shorten as you get closer to the shoulder. Along the way admire dramatic views of the Horseshoe Glacier.

The hiking gets easier as you continue around the shoulder to reach a basin at 2.3 km, roughly an hour up from the parking lot. You’re into the good stuff immediately if its larch you’re after. They’re everywhere.

Look out for a signed junction at 2.7 km that leads to the backcountry campground. There is a pit toilet there if you need to use one.

Continue on logs through the wet, very fragile subalpine meadows. After another 15 minutes of hiking reach the alpine zone and Monica Meadows.

You can do one of two things. Head immediately for the ridge or take off on a smaller trail to the lakes. There is a small cairn at the intersection.

Incredible views on the Monica Meadows trail near the end of the switchback about 30 – 40 minutes into the hike

The understory is a riot of colour – and the views are marvelous early on the Monica Meadows hike

The beauty of late a late September hike on the Monica Meadows trail

Side trip to the lakes

I chose to visit the lakes first though I didn’t go all the way to the end.

The trail is easy to follow to the lakes – with much of it on rocks. In about seven minutes you’ll reach the first lake. It will stop you dead in your tracks – whether it be because of August wildflowers or September larches.

You can continue to two more lakes deeper in the basin and closer to Mt. Amon Ra. You’ll have to rock hop across a stream to get to the second lake. If you’ve got the time, plan to continue to the end of the trail. Simply retrace your steps to the main trail and either head back to the trailhead or go right and up to the ridgecrest.

There’s an obvious trail to the lakes off the main Monica Meadows trail

Rock hop across this outlet stream to continue to the second and third lakes below Mt. Amon Ra

I feel fortunate to have scored a perfect September day – and even though the parking lot was full people were spread out, so I often walked out of sight of anybody

Head to the ridgecrest

After retracing your steps to the main trail turn right and start climbing gradually, passing a small tarn in short order. The final section of trail is steep but not difficult to negotiate.

Continue out to a set of rocks at the top of the ridge to admire the view. You can see Mount Lady MacBeth, Mount Macbeth and the Horseshoe Glacier.

The trail runs across the spine of the ridge from which there are views to the east of Mt.Amon Ra, Osiri and Mt. Isis – where those with good eyes can pick out a small natural arch.

Pass a small tarn on the way up to the ridge

Heading through Monica Meadows on the way up to the ridge

Lots of hikers enjoying a perfect warm September day on the Monica Meadows trail

Views from the ridge above Monica Meadows

Looking across from the ridge to the expansive MacBeth Icefield

The top of the ridge is a popular spot to eat lunch or simply to revel in the beauty of the mountains

A word of caution exploring the meadows

Monica Meadows are sensitive and easily damaged. To minimize the impact of your visit stick to the trail especially the wooden beams in the wet areas. If the trail disappears, try to stick to rocks and dirt. As a last resort walk on the quick-to-recover grasses and flowers rather than the low-lying heather you see around.

There were a lot of off-leash dogs on the day I hiked up to Monica Meadows. Rather than let them run loose, keep them leashed and on the trail.

Stick to the wooden beams when walking through the fragile areas in Monica Meadows

The trail is wide enough that it’s easy to avoid the fragile environment

Hikers sticking to the trail

Camping in Monica Meadows

Reach the turnoff to the campground 2.7 km from the trailhead. It took me one hour to get here.

Backcountry camping is permitted up at Monica Meadows. There are four pads like the one pictured below, a throne-style open air toilet and rough benches around a fire pit. Tread lightly as this is a delicate area.

Reservations are not required and camping is first come, first served.

Camping at Monica Meadows in larch season would be a treat though you need to minimize your footprint

Where to stay before the hike

I was fortunate to stay just outside of Kaslo at Wing Creek Resort. I had a cabin with amazing sunrise views over Kootenay Lake. If you’re up for a 10-minute walk to the water you can have a swim and enjoy their beautiful private beach.

The beach on Kootenay Lake at Wing Creek Resort

My cabin at Wing Creek Resort just outside of Kaslo

Another option would be the highly rated Kaslo Hotel on the main street. It’s got a friendly and very good onsite restaurant.

If you’d rather camp, visit Glacier Creek Regional Park for first come first served option at $15 per night.

The Kaslo Hotel

Thank you to Nelson and Kootenay Lake Tourism for hosting my stay in the area.