Sometimes, chance can lead you to the most interesting experiences. This is a little story about Nyonié. And elephants.
Footprints in the sand: who walked here?
Nyonié
2 April 2025
I’m in Gabon, kinda random.
Searching for flights to RCA (the Central African Republic) for an upcoming trip, it occurred to me that I could use some of those frequent flier points I have lying about. Trouble is, Skyteam award fares are few and far between. Flights to – or from – Bangui? Non-existent.
What about neighbouring countries then? Perhaps even neighbouring countries where I haven’t yet been. Suddenly a much bigger world opens up. I end up flying in to Equatorial Guinea, 4 days there, then on to Cameroon for 3 days, and onwards to RCA. Going home is a bit more challenging. In fact, the only option back to Oslo, is from Libreville, 2 days after leaving RCA.
2 days in Gabon, then. Need to fill those with something that will give a tiny taste of the country. A fixer in Libreville is contacted. A tour around in Gabon’s capital, perhaps? And can he help with the documents needed to get a visa?
He can – and he does. And then some. Louis is his name (let me know if you would like his WhatsApp), and he suggests that instead of spending those two days in Libreville, how about getting out in Gabon’s gorgeous wilderness instead?
Yes!! You don’t have to ask me twice. Absolutely want that. In Africa, the cities are rarely the draw.
Libreville morning
The plane from Bangui arrives in Libreville at night on the last day of March. Louis is waiting at arrivals and we head straight to a not-exactly-wonderful hotel. Taking total blame for that; I had neglected to organise accoms here in Gabon, so this was a last-minute one. I’ve already forgotten the name. Just as well.
After a few hours’ sleep, we’re at the port, waiting for transport across the Gabon Estuary. I have no idea what’s coming, though I think there was something about animals. A safari, perhaps? Been too busy focussing on RCA and have barely read what Louis has said. Also, have to admit I rather enjoy not knowing what’s around the corner.
Nyonié, he says. It includes a little boat trip, a bumpy ride in a 4×4, and sleeping in a cabin by the beach. And – there will be elephants!
Early morning in Libreville…
On the way to the port
My favourite – and least favourite thing about Africa: wildlife – and plastic rubbish
A French mother and daughter is here, too, also waiting for the ferry.
What will it look like, this ferry? Big? Small?
There it is: a bright red little thing, ads for JP. Chenet along the sides, with room for us – and supplies.
Soon we’re on our way across the estuary.
The boat trip out to Nyonié takes 45 minutes, we’re told. It’s more like twice that. But nice to be on the water, so no probs. At the Matek-Mavi Pier, a 4×4 is waiting, ready to load humans, cases of beer and World Cola, and lots of freshly baked baguettes.
Site touristique de Nyonié – Chez Béti
45 min later, along a very bumpy road (it’s rainy season), we arrive at a camp and are shown to our ocean-facing cabins. I settle into mine, i.e. throw my stuff in, then have a look around.
Nyonié is a coastal village here in Gabon’s Estuaire province, and we are at a very cool, very relaxed camp by the Atlantic, far from, well, anywhere.
A group of people are hanging about in a bar, enjoying free-for-all drinks and snacks, and chatting away. Some are playing board games. Almost everyone is French-Gabonese or ordinary French. One of them has a Nikon with a massive lense. He was up at the crack of dawn and captured a hippo coming out of the water onto the beach. Everyone is oohing and aahing at his photos. Perhaps we will see a hippo tomorrow morning, then. Exciting!!
Meanwhile, cuteness overload here at the camp in Nyonié.
Just below us is a long, white sandy beach that we have all to ourselves, the ca. 15 guests at the camp. This looks promising!
Sadly, my bikini is in the bag, still lost in the Air France universe. All I know, is that we’re not in the same country.
Soon, a bell rings. Lunch is served.
Quiche! So good I have two pieces. I shouldn’t have. Turns out the quiche is only the starter! This is a French lunch, after all. There will be a main course and dessert. And wine: JP. Chenet, of course. Everything is delicious! And no wonder, Nyonié is run by Béti, a friendly, cheerful chef from Pays Basque.
The main course is roasted chicken with haricots verts, and dessert is slices of fresh pineapple. Everyone is sitting at the same table. Conversation is light and easy. It’s all very cosy, like a family lunch.
4-wheel drive safari in Nyonié
After lunch it’s time for a safari in the 4×4.
We cruise through the terrain, past lone withered old trees, and the verdant, grassy savannahs surrounding Nyonié.
This would be a wonderful drive, even without the promise of wildlife.
(White, shapeless t-shirt courtesy of Air France. Eek!)
We’re mainly looking for elephants. And after about 45 minutes …
… who is that, hiding in the bushes over there …
Soon we see many! Single elephants, families …
Love seeing these majestic animals roam freely around
We have to be very quiet, only talk in a whisper. ‘Don’t climb up on the seat, that might scare them’, we’re told, ‘and they will charge.’
We spend a few lovely, lovely hours like this, driving across a delightful landscape of fields and rolling hills, through pleasantly cool forest. We spot elephants, water buffalos, birds of every kind…
Much too soon, the sun is setting.
Back at Nyonié camp
Time to head back for dinner.
Same family style meal
Basque fish soup, cauliflower au gratin and sea bass with almonds, all delish! For dessert, apple beignets. Have not had beignets since I was last in New Orleans – 12 years ago now! After dinner, the self-service bar is open, but tomorrow begins before sunrise, so no long boozy night for those who want to join a pre-dawn walking safari. Of course we want to join!
It is hot, even at night, but no problem. The cabins are simple, clean and well-kept. And they have air condition. I sleep like a baby. Must be all the fresh air. Much too soon, there is a knock at my door. It is 05.30.
Day 2 – Walking safari
Off we go, in search of elephants in the wild. We might be able to get even closer on foot than we did yesterday.
There are 4 of us, and a guide carrying a machete, mostly to clear a path. His name is Aime.
Can you see me?
Following the tracks
And suddenly, around a bend, there they are. A family group!
Slowly, we approach, cameras at the ready (not me, as I lost my phone in Bangui).
Suddenly, it seems the elephants notice us. The capo is not pleased. Hey, he says. Do not come near!
Soon, a stricter warning is in order. He roars, and comes rushing towards us.
Pretty clear warning there. Better listen.
Run to the bridge, says the guide. No need to tell me twice. Apparently, elephants will not cross a wooden bridge – like a cow won’t cross a cattle grid. They don’t see very well, elephants, and will only spot us about 10-20 metres away. But what they lack in sight, they make up for in hearing and sense of smell.
One of us leaves the bridge to get a few more shots. Uh-oh, papa says, and charges. Away with you!
We leave the group in peace, and move on. Quickly.
Not so fast, says Aime, preserve your energy in case you have to run later.
Soon we are at what seems to be an abandoned little village near the beach.
Elephants are all around us!
Well, hello there! And there! And over there!
Worst case, there are buildings we can hide in, should we need to…
The single elephants are sedate. They probably know we are there, but don’t seem to care.
Then: Another group!
Ooops, are we too close?
Let’s move, says Aime. There’s no wooden bridge here, so on to the beach.
Running on the beach takes on a whole new meaning with an elephant right behind. But its intention is obviously to chase us away, not to trample us. Elephants are not predators. They are just protecting their young.
We continue along the beach, hoping to get a glimpse of a hippo. But it’s probably too late in the day. Must be around 07.00 by now.
No hippos to be seen this morning
But it was clearly here
No cause for complaints, though. Getting up-close with so many elephants in one morning is nothing short of awesome! In every sense of the word.
Back at Nyonié camp
Breakfast is ready when we come back: coffee, baguettes and jam. Perfect!
Then a shower. I am covered in sand, and wet through from the run.
The rest of the morning is devoted to swimming, wandering aimlessly on the beach, play board games, take a nap, or do nothing at all. I decide to write up some notes (that you are now reading). And that’s about where I am now. Sitting in the bar, typing away and drinking World Cola.
Suddenly, we hear a chopper overhead. It’s military. And flying low. The soldiers are friendly, waving at us. We’re told they are looking for fishermen that have been kidnapped by pirates here in the Gulf of Guinea.
It is from De Gaulle army base in Libreville, one of France’s last military bases in Africa, run in partnership with the Gabonese army. The French Army has been here since 1975, but in Gabon, as in other former French colonies, France is being pushed out by countries eager to distance themselves from the former colonisers. Today, only about 200 French forces remain at the army base, mostly to help train the Gabonese military.
We will have lunch in a while. Then, it’s back on the bumpy road and in the little red JP. Chenet boat to Libreville, where we’ll have a quick look around town, before the night flight home.
Update
Another lunch, another feast of deliciousness from Béti, and it’s back to the estuary.
The boat is full this time. We’re moving at speed, and my face is getting sprayed every 30 seconds or so.
This unexpected little adventure that I had not given much thought to ahead, has been the absolute highlight of this jaunt through what turned out to be 4 African countries! New experiences, new friends… It is hard to leave. But leave we must.
Libreville, part 2
Louis meets us at the port back in Libreville. We have about 4-5 hours before the flight, enough time for a brief look at Gabon’s capital.
My shoes are completely soaked after running in the waves this morning. First order of the day: find a shoe shop.
City Sport Libreville at Centre Commercial Mbolo, for all your sporting good needs.
In Libreville, Louis takes us to Village des Artisans, a market with Gabonese arts and crafts, souvenirs, little jewellery shops, etc.
We then continue to two unusual and interesting churches. L’eglise St-Michel in the Nkembo neighbourhood of Libreville has impressive frescoes around the main entrance, and 35 wooden columns decorated with dramatic carvings of Jesus fighting the devil, as well as local legends. Room for 3,000 people, indoors and outdoors.
About a 10-minute walk away, Notre-Dame de Lourdes is from 2015, and has blue ceramic tiles that reminds me of Portuguese azulejos.
Both beautiful in their own way
In 2023, the Gabonese military, led by General Brice Clotaire Oligui Nguema, ousted President Ali Bongo, whose family had ruled Gabon since 1967. The first presidential election since the coup is scheduled for 12 April – in 10 days.
At Rond-point de la Démocratie (Democracy Roundabout) is a sculpture with the seals of the country’s 9 provinces. Spot the peace dove? Before the 2023 coup, this was known as the 12 March Roundabout, and a statue of former president Bongo stood here.
If you look closely at the election poster, you will notice the letters C’BON. The campaign slogan is a play-on-words for C’est bon – and it also happens to be Nguema’s initials.
So – that’s all we have time for in Libreville. As the sun sets, we head for the airport.
Not bad sunsets in Libreville either
All photos by David Røgler.
PS
6 April 2025: My bag that travelled around in Africa without me, has finally arrived at home, 3 days after I did. I’m definitely charging my new trainers to Air France.
12 April 2025: Although Gabon is rich in oil, gold, timber, and manganese, the vast majority of the population live in poverty, with food shortages, frequent power cuts, and high unemployment. In the election today, General Nguema, leader of the 2023 coup, won by a landslide – ca. 90% of the vote. It remains to be seen whether this will lead to real democracy, and better living conditions for all – or if it will remain the same, under a new brand.
Nyonié: Up-close with forest elephants in Gabon is a post from Sophie’s World