Malabo, Equatorial Guinea
26 March 2025
Hello, hello and greetings from little Equatorial Guinea.
All these Guineas…
Equatorial Guinea? Which Guinea is that again?
Of the world’s 5 Guineas, 3 are in Africa, all on the west coast of the continent. From north to south:
Guinea Bissau, once Portuguese Guinea – capital: Bissau
Guinea, formerly French Guinea – capital: Conakry
Equatorial Guinea, formerly Spanish Guinea – capital: Malabo
I mention a word or two about the why’s, the how’s and the history of the Guineas in this post.
All three have retained the languages of their former colonisers. In Equatorial Guinea, that means Spanish is the official language, even after the country gained independence in 1968; the last of Spain’s colonies to do so.
As the country has joined CEMAC (Communauté Économique et Monétaire de l’Afrique Centrale), French is also an official language, and everyone I have met during the days here, speaks French very well. Being a CEMAC country also means the currency is the Central African franc CFA, fixed to the Euro and guaranteed by the French Treasury.
Equatorial Guinea
I said little Equatorial Guinea. Small to medium is more correct: it is 28,000km², about the size of Belgium. But it feels small, as it is so spread out. The country has three main components. From north to south, there is Bioko Island with the capital Malabo, the mainland, and the island of Annobon. All are quite a distance apart – and also a few countries apart. Between Bioko and the mainland is Cameroon, and between Bioko and Annobon is São Tomé and Príncipe.
Curiously, despite the name, no part of the country is actually on the equator. Bioko and the mainland are north, and Annobon is south of that 0° latitude imaginary line. But it is in the neighbourhood of the equator. Close enough.
Malabo
This is my first visit to Equatorial Guinea, and my original plan was to hire a car and explore Bioko. For various reasons (including, but not limited to, Air France not being able to send my bag along with me, and later sending it to the wrong country), I have ended up with less time to look around than I had intended. So with the limited time, I have focussed on Malabo.
Like so many other parts of the southern world, Bioko was discovered by a Portuguese seafarer, one Fernando Pó, back in the 15th century. Not unexpectedly, the island was named after the discoverer. Fast forward 300 years, to 1778, when Portuguese and Spanish royals got together and exchanged Bioko for large bits of South America (think Brazil). Thing is, though, Spain didn’t care so much about Fernando Pó, and leased it to Great Britain, who used it as a base for hunting slave traders. And it was the Brits who founded present-day Malabo in 1827, naming it Port Clarence. This is where they settled the slaves they freed, until Britain founded Sierra Leone as a colony for the formerly enslaved people.
16 years later, the Spanish took the island back, and re-named the city Santa Isabel in honour of Queen Isabella II. Proceed a further 140 years, to 1973, when a campaign was afoot to replace colonial names with African ones, and Santa Isabel was renamed Malabo, after the last local king.
What to do and see in Malabo
Malabo has colonial architecture from the Spanish past, lively markets and scenic waterfronts. During these days in Malabo, I think I have managed to get a feel for the city, and see the major sights. Those not fenced in for maintenance, that is.
How is Malabo different from other African cities? Well, it is quiet, and small, with ca 65,000 residents. Not sure where they are, though. At times, it feels like I’m the only one about. It is also clean and green, and most people follow the rules, not least the rules of traffic. Big yays for that!
How is it similar? Life is slow here in Malabo. Things take time and people move slowly in the African heat.
Paseo Maritimo and the old and new ports of Malabo
Best to just follow suit, so I take a slow wander along the tree-lined Paseo Maritimo, the seafront promenade.
Along Paseo Maritimo
From the Paseo, I can see the old and the new ports.
A few years ago, I happened upon a Spanish series called Two Lives, a soap opera of sorts, with an historic twist. I watched enough episodes to make me want to see Equatorial Guinea.
It is about two women, living in different eras: Julia in present-day Spain, and Carmen, her grandmother, who lands in Spanish Guinea in the 1950s. I particularly remember the scene where Carmen arrives at the port here in then Santa Isabel. Looking over to the old port, I can almost see her disembark.
The old port, seen from La Luna restaurant
The new port doesn’t conjure up quite as romantic an image, but no doubt more useful ones. Major exports used to be cocoa, coffee and timber. But everything changed in 1996, when oil was discovered in the Gulf of Guinea.
The new port, seen from Paseo Maritimo
Equatorial Guinea has one of Africa’s highest GDP per capita. You’d think everyone’s needs were provided for.
Alas, it isn’t so. Wealth inequality is extreme. Poverty is extreme. 70% of the population lives on 1 USD a day. Out of 189 countries, Equatorial Guinea is in 145th place. So where does all the money go? You tell me.
Quirky fact: If you look at a list of presidents of Equatorial Guinea, you would expect quite a few names. After all, the country has been independent for 57 years. But – you will see only 2: Francisco Macías Nguema, and his nephew, Teodoro Obiang Nguema Mbasogo, who has ruled the country for 43 years, the longest serving non-royal head of state in the world.
Monuments in Malabo
Moving along (slowly), I am looking for the Monument to the Founding Fathers, honouring the key figures in the fight for independence. But I can’t find it, and nobody seems to know what I mean. However, I do find other interesting sculptures:
From left to right: 1. Don Quijote and Sancho Panza in the middle of a roundabout, 2. one I haven’t been able to find much information about (let me know if you know it) and 3. Plaza de la Mujer, representing women and their importance in Equatoguinean society (currently being renovated, so I had to wiggle the camera in through a gap in the fence).
God…
I would like to see the Santa Isabel Cathedral, but that is not easy. First attempt, yesterday, is thwarted because the president (or was it the first minister?) is about to go for a drive and the area around the cathedral is closed off.
First attempt: this is as close as I get
But I am nothing if not determined. Today is a new day. I jump in a taxi and head towards the cathedral anew. But again, the area is closed off. This time, if I have understood correctly, it is the president’s son who is in his office (in the general vicinity).
I ask the taxi driver to stop and wait for me, so I can at least walk over and get a photo of this famous church. But it seems I have to earn it. After a few metres, I am stopped by an armed guard. Where do I think I’m going?
Eh… to the cathedral. I would like to take a few photos. Please? He consults a colleague. It takes a worrisome amount of time, but finally he comes back and says OK. I walk on, but am soon stopped again. This one is not so nice. No, absolutely no walking over to the cathedral. ‘But… please, pretty please! I am leaving tomorrow.’ I look towards the two from before, hoping they catch my glance.
They do! They wave their guns and speak rapidly in Spanish. Finally, the not so nice one gives in. He points me to a man in black, sitting on stone steps a few metres away. ‘You speak with him!’
Full of hope, I continue to said man in black. He is not smiling. Timidly, I ask if I can walk to the cathedral to get a few shots. ‘What do you mean, walk to the cathedral?’ he says. ‘The cathedral is right here.’
And sure enough, it is right behind my back. I have been so focussed on all these uniformed men and their guns, I have not even noticed it was this close.
And here it is, the 19th century, neo-Gothic/Romanesque Catedral de Santa Isabel de Malabo, with the two soaring 40-metre-high towers, stained-glass windows n’all.
Second attempt: this photo cost me a bit of stress, so better enjoy it.
Just across the street, is a quiet little square with a fountain.
Would have preferred a photo the other way, with the cathedral in the background, but didn’t want to push my luck
… and Mammon
As the 4th richest country in Africa, it is no surprise that there are banks galore, including this golden palace of CCEI Banque GE.
Parque Nacional de Malabo
It is my final evening, and I enter Parque Nacional de Malabo – a national park in the city. It is a lovely place to wander.
The park is mainly tropical forest, but it is also home to endangered red colobus monkeys and Okoume forest monkeys. Sadly, they are hiding today.
Remember I said it feels like I am the only one about here in Malabo? Well, here in the 8 km²-national park, I really am the only one. After the two men collecting the 500 CFA entrance fee, I don’t see a soul for the next couple of hours. Feels like I’m in an enchanted forest.
This gorgeous green space is my favourite experience in this unusual city.
What did I miss on Bioko?
A lot, that’s what. Next time, I would like to
hike to the top of the highest peak on the island, 3011-metre-high Pico Basile. The hike goes through rainforest and ends up with views of Bioko and neighbouring islands. Alternatively – or additionally – the Pico de la Nieve trail looks interesting as well, with volcanic landscape and monkeys along the way.
see Bioko’s famous waterfalls, especially Ureka, with its springs and cascades – and its caves, particularly Cueva de la Virgen with stalactites and stalagmites.
hike in the Moka Valley, the highlands just outside of Malabo, and see how coffee has been grown at the plantations here for centuries.
meet some of the Lekwong people in the more remote villages on the island and take part in (if I am allowed) their traditional dances, and taste some mbongo, a spicy stew.
try some of the other traditional dishes, including sopa de mariscos (seafood soup), yuca con pescado (cassava with fish), and maybe even a little boza (a type of fermented millet drink).
hang out at some of Bioko’s beaches, either the black volcanic sands of Playa de Arena or the golden stretches of Playa de Ureka. Preferably both.
visit the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and take a tour through the different ecosystems; rainforest, mangroves, coastal wetlands, and see Bioko Monkeys and the endangered sea turtles.
take the short boat ride out to Isla de Galapagos, Tortoise Island, get up close with the giant tortoises and learn all about the conservation efforts there.
time the next visit to October, to coincide with the Fiesta de la Independencia, celebrating independence from Spain on 12 October 1968. There are vibrant parades, music, dancing. African countries do festivals very well, so this would surely be heaps of fun.
There are actually people here
PS Annobon
That’s about a week right there. And there’s more to Equatorial Guinea than Bioko, such as the mainland, and Annobon, which I am particularly curious about. Why? In 2022, the ca 5,000 residents on the island of Annobon declared unilateral independence from the rest of Equatorial Guinea. It has not been easy for them. That speaks of a defiant spirit, and I find that intriguing.
And that’s all the time I have this round. Onward to Cameroon, still ‘unburdened’ with luggage. Oh well, at least I won’t have to wait at the carousel in Douala.
Hasta la vista, Equatorial Guinea
Malabo: oh so quiet is a post from Sophie’s World