Off to Mogadishu, I said. Couple of days’ beach hols! Good with a bit of warm weather now in February.
Mogadishu? you said. Not exactly your standard beach holiday destination. A bit nonchalant about it, aren’t you?
Well, you know this project of mine: the whole world! And you know I’m intrigued by the more curious corners on this planet. Doesn’t get any more curious than this, does it… It will be an interesting experience. I’m excited about it. Besides, Somalia could probably do with a bit of tourist income. Got everything figured out: drivers, guides, n’all.
Eh… bon voyage, I guess!
Why, thank you! I’ll tell you all about it.
Be safe!
Always!
And so, here I am, back home, safe and sound, telling you about it!
Things to do in Mogadishu: Exploring Somalia’s dynamic capital
Mogadishu is an ancient city, locally known as Xamar or Hamar (but nothing like the Norwegian city of Hamar). For more than 1,000 years, traders have travelled between Mogadishu and cities all across the Indian Ocean. Capital of various sultanates, then of an Italian colony, and later a British, Somalia finally gained independence in 1960. Trouble has been brewing ever since, including a still ongoing civil war. But make no mistake about it, Mogadishu is a resilient city.
Mogadishu in the 1960s (photo on the wall in the restaurant of Heritage Hotel)
David, Mel and I arrive from Rwanda, after a failed attempt at visiting the gorillas in Eastern Congo. Failed, because M23 decided to invade Congo’s Kivu region just then. But not entirely failed. Visiting the gorgeous animals in Kahuzi Biega National Park would have to wait, but we decided to at least have a look at Bukavu. It would be relatively easy to run to the border, which is literally next door. But more on all that in another post.
Our flight from Rwanda takes us through Addis Ababa, where we meet up with Ellen. Together, the four of us head to the gate. Mogadishu next!
So why visit a city immersed in civil war?
Where to even begin answering that!
We are all excited about visiting this intriguing city. But I won’t deny there is also a slight unease involved. Now, excited clearly wins (let’s say 75/25), but as we are a bit apprehensive, we have decided on a short first visit, only 2 days. David stays on for one more day, and thinks the rest of us are a bit chicken.
The first thing I spot, is our all white Ethiopian Airlines plane. No name, logo or markings indicate where it is from. I hear this is to appear like a UN aircraft, for safety reasons. It makes sense, but I have not been able to verify it.
Mogadishu at last!
Aden Adde airport through the porthole. Mostly UN and various NGO planes on the ground.
So here we are, in the pirate capital of the world. Immigration is smooth and problem-free.
In Somalia, we have put our fate in the hands of Jamal Abukar, who runs a local tour company, promising to show us the real face of Somalia. And it begins just after passing through security at MGQ, where we are met by two drivers, two guides – and two armed guards.
We are taken to our lodgings, the Green Paradise hotel, before we head out to have a look at this enigmatic city. No time to waste.
Around a shabby facade and behind an inconspicuous door, is a green and lovely courtyard – and my disco pink bedroom.
The old fishing port
We begin in the Hamar Weyne district, home of the old fishing harbour and the fish market. Somalia has Africa’s longest coastline, 3,333 km along the Indian Ocean. Of course – and in the words of Shania Twain – that don’t impress me much. Norway’s coastline is 83,000 km, second longest in the world, behind Canada. But I digress.
Fishing has been an important livelihood for centuries here in Somalia, and is still one of the country’s main exports. For a while, pirates at sea made fishing a dangerous job. However, piracy has been in decline over the last decade, so it is safer these days.
Mogadishu’s old fishing port is in the middle of the city and has been a lively hub for trade and cultural exchange through the centuries. This is where the day’s haul was brought in.
Just behind is a beach, once an important social space as well as a place of commerce. Business and pleasure.
This beach is my first look at the ravages of conflict. Neglect, destruction, crumbled buildings, debris scattered across the sand – all poignant reminders of decades of turbulence.
At one end of the beach is Mogadishu’s lighthouse, or what remains of it. I have to imagine what it looked like when it was built in 1903. Two years ago – on 5 May 2023 – it collapsed from the top, and now stands as a sad reminder of the architectural loss, and even more, the loss of 4 young boys who were killed by falling bricks whilst sleeping.
The fish market
We walk the short distance to the bustling Hamar Weyne fish market, where people are chatting, exchanging news and stories, all whilst haggling over fresh catch, just as Somalis have done for centuries.
You’ll find a great variety of fish here: tuna, kingfish, stingray, snapper, blue marlin, swordfish, and, not least, shark.
It’s a controversial topic. Shark populations around the world are in rapid decline. And they grow slowly, which makes them particularly vulnerable. On the one hand, illegal overfishing leads to depletion of the population. On the other, many still rely heavily on shark fishing to make a living.
They may look scary, but sharks are essential for keeping the marine ecosystem in balance.
Historical landmarks in Mogadishu
We stop by Daljirka Dahsoon, tomb of the unknown soldier, constructed in memory of the many nameless men and women who have given their life whilst defending Somalia.
Then, the 14 October monument, a bit inconspicuous amongst the tuk-tuks. The column was raised as a memorial to one of the deadliest attacks in Somalia’s history, the suicide bombing on 14 October 2017, where ca 600 people lost their lives. The memorial is a powerful reminder of the tragic loss of life and also the strength of a country committed to overcoming its challenges.
Left to right: Hawa Tako Monument (symbol of resilience), SYL Monument (struggle against colonialism), and statue of Muhammad Abdullah Hassan (poet, religious, political and military leader, and known in the British Empire as the Mad Mullah)
Where to eat in Mogadishu
Time for lunch – in one of Mogadishu’s green spaces, a peaceful park, suitably named Peace Park, Beerta Nabadda, with lush greenery and walking paths. It is a tranquil oasis in an otherwise hustling, bustling city.
The food is delicious: a huge platter of chicken, beef and freshly caught tuna, served in the blue gazebo.
The camel market
No rest for the wicked. Time to move on – to Mogadishu’s little camel market. There is another, much bigger one at the outskirts of town. I have seen many camel markets lately, but quite enjoyed this little one, home of milk providers only.
Girl power!
Somali camels are productive, yielding ca 4 litres of milk per day.
This little one, though!
Next up: another beach
Specifically Abay-Dhahan beach, a coastal environment ca 17 km south of Mogadishu. We are here just to hang out and relax.
I did say beach holiday, didn’t I…
But let’s move from a wet environment to the exact opposite:
The Red Dunes of Somalia
The Red Dunes are a stunning natural landscape, an otherworldly sight, especially at sunset. The climate is arid, vegetation sparse, and the terrain rugged.
As opposed to more famous sand dunes around the world, these remain almost untouched. That’s likely to change, I suppose. As Somalia gradually becomes more stable, tourism will increase and it will be easier to exploit the country’s natural resources.
Dune bashing is still in its infancy in Somalia.
I’m grabbing that flag
Music, fun, food and friendship
In the evening, we are invited to meet our guide’s friends and family to experience local culture in Mogadishu.
Starter: Popcorn with dates – and papped whilst getting some camel milk tea.
Credit for these 4 photos go to Dalmar Plus
Finally, after a very long day filled with experiences, sights and sounds, we end with a night-time look at Mogadishu from above.
Views from the rooftop of Green Paradise Hotel, shiny landmark mosque included.
I am asleep before my head hits the pillow. All that fresh air.
Day 2: beach, market, mosque
Rise and shine! Can’t dally about. We are leaving this evening – and there is still much to discover!
Lido Beach: a symbol of resilience
We are at the beach! Again!
But not just any beach! One of the best beaches in Somalia. The most famous – and infamous – of them all!
In the 1930s, when the Italians ruled the land, Lido Beach, locally known only as Liido, was a snazzy resort beach. For a long time, it was a cherished location for Somalis, a favourite hang-out for families and friends looking to spend a day by the seaside.
As a result of Somalia’s civil war, the beach fell into disrepair. Today, efforts are afoot to revive the area and bring back its former glory. Security has improved and tourists are ever so slowly returning to Mogadishu. Here on Lido Beach, local businesses are starting up once again. In the evenings, locals come for picnics and barbecues, and there are occasional music festivals. The government and local authorities are working on improving infrastructure, including better roads, hotels, and restaurants around the beach. In short, Liido has become a symbol of recovery and resourcefulness, and is expected to play a pivotal role in Somalia’s tourism revival.
But, we can’t hide from reality. Lido Beach is also infamous, due to several attacks by Al-Shabaab, a group affiliated with Al-Qaeda – the latest of which took place in August 2024. And just 2 weeks ago, on 25 February 25, trigger-happy security guards killed a teenage boy and wounded several others whilst trying to clear the beach ahead of a visit by the Ethiopian PM.
For us, it’s a quiet Sunday morning. Locals are out fishing, others are setting up shop. Kids are swimming and playing games on the beach.
Ambling along the golden sand, we notice there’s a bit of a swell. Looks fun!
Rocky Mogadishu boat trip
Local markets in Mogadishu
Mogadishu has several markets, and you can find pretty much anything you need – and don’t need: peanuts, beans, rice, petrol, medicine, clothes, jewellery, fridge magnets, fake university diplomas, forged passports (Somali and others), counterfeit money… the list goes on. In short, if you can’t find what you’re looking for in Mogadishu’s markets, it probably doesn’t exist.
The largest is Bakaraa Market, famous – or again, infamous – for heavy fighting during the Battle of Mogadishu, after a US Black Hawk helicopter was shot down in 1993.
We visit another: Hamar Weyn market in Mogadishu’s old town.
Locals claim this man and his stand has the best coffee in town. No argument from me.
Ali Jimale Mosque
On the way to the airport, we stop briefly at Ali Jimale Mosque.
5,000 people can pray here, most of them in the vast prayer hall. Probably a gorgeous space. But I cannot say for sure. You see, people with female bodies are relegated to the upper floor, and we were only allowed to view it through the mesh. This guy, however…
Mogadishu practicals
Travelling to Mogadishu will be a unique experience. It will also be challenging, given the current conditions. Stability is increasing, but the security situation remains fragile. This is the situation as of February 2025:
Despite my joking about a beach holiday, you’re obviously not going to Somalia in search of sun, sand, sea, and cerveza. You are going because you want to get a feel for one of the most dangerous countries in the world, and the people living here. You are going because you are adventurous. This blog is about the world’s curious corners, and Mogadishu certainly fits the bill. But Somalia isn’t for everyone.
You are of course aware of government warnings, advising extreme caution or avoid travelling to the country at all. If you decide to go anyway – as we did – you are well advised to find a local contact/fixer to make sure you stay in safe areas and have security personnel along, who can navigate the city safely. We used Dalmar Plus, a local travel agency. Hereby recommended.
Before you decide to travel to Mogadishu, it is important to remember that being here comes with an element of risk. It is equally important to be aware at all times. Ultimately, I am the one who is responsible for my safety. Kidnapping, armed conflict, shootings, general crime, and acts of terrorism can happen. But as we have seen, that is also the case in many other places, even in countries which have always been considered very safe destinations, including most European countries. If terrorism can happen at a youth camp on a tiny island in a Norwegian fjord, one of the most peaceful places on the planet, it can happen anywhere.
Spot the camera up on the wall? They are everywhere around town. And our friendly, easygoing armed guards have our backs, as always.
You also need to be aware of logistical challenges, road blocks and check points. There are many.
Getting there and being there
Not many airlines fly to Mogadishu; we flew Ethiopian Airlines. Air Blue flies from Nairobi. Somalian-owned Daallo Airlines flies from Dubai and other cities in the Middle East.
You will need a visa, which is not that hard to obtain compared to many other countries. Apply for the eTAS (electronic visa) here. You will need to upload a letter of invitation from a company and that company’s registration document, a scan of your passport, and a passport size photo. They are a bit strict regarding the photo. I had to try with 3 or 4 photos, before it was accepted.
Cover up: Women are not required by law to cover up. But do it anyway. Somalis are generally very friendly, but there is a risk of getting dirty looks on the street if your hair is not covered. People we met, appreciated us making an effort to respect their culture.
Somalia is a Muslim country, and there is no alcohol. But you already figured that, didn’t you?
Like China, Somalia is a cashless country. All payments are done by mobile app.
Photography: Do not, under any circumstance, snap photos when police or other uniformed personnel are nearby (and they are almost always nearby), even if you intend to take a picture of a building. If they think you have taken a photo of them, even inadvertently, there will be consequences.
Mogadishu: City of Resilience and Opportunity
Mogadishu is ever so slowly regaining its place as a vibrant city filled with history, culture, and stunning nature. Whilst it is important to remain aware of the current situation, those who travel here will find warm and welcoming people, eager to share their story and heritage. Somalis are also strong and resilient. I suppose you have to be, living under such challenging circumstances. Living in Somalia means living in the moment.
Despite the challenges, and perhaps surprisingly, Mogadishu has turned out to be one of the most interesting cities I have ever visited, and I will definitely return and explore more of the country.
Mahad sanid, Somalia.
All photos by Melissa G. Mitruen, David Røgler, Ellen Sjølie, and myself unless otherwise noted.
Magnetic Mogadishu is a post from Sophie’s World