Not exactly turbocharged in Taipei
Cat and I were recently in Fujian in China, on a very interesting and very personal journey, which I may get back to in a later post. Today, however, I thought I would share a bit about Taipei. We were only in town for 32 hours, and on top of that, C was a bit under the weather, so it really will be only a bit.
Taipei’s Liberty Square with the National Theatre and Concert Hall
On the way back from Fujian to Shanghai, we stopped in Taipei – to get a quick look, a first impression of a contested land. China claims the island is part of the People’s Republic of China – PRC, whilst the Taiwanese claims they are an independent country, the Republic of China (ROC). As a result of the dispute, Taiwan is not a UN member state.
You already know I lean towards the little guy, so I won’t get into the politics here – other than to say that I enjoy visiting contested territories. Whether it is Karabagh, Kosovo, Palestine, Western Sahara or here in Taiwan – wherever they are in their journey for freedom – there seems to be a certain spirit of defiance. I like that. So I expected this should be an interesting little stopover. Furthermore, I fondly remember my mum’s uncle, who was a ship’s captain, talking about his experiences in Formosa, as he called it.
Things to do in Taipei
It goes without saying that this little Taipei itinerary will be far from comprehensive. But let’s get on with things to do in Taiwan’s capital, beginning with some nighttime fun.
Taipei Night Markets
The stalls at Taipei’s famous night markets, peddle everything from high tech items, creative souvenirs, trendy clothes, handmade crafts, shoes, make-up, and offbeat knick-knacks. However, they are most famous for Taiwanese street food – Michelin recommended street food, even – offering a unique opportunity to sample a wide variety of local grub. You can try all sorts of traditional treats, including (but by no means limited to) fried chicken, bubble tea, stinky tofu, dumplings, and, one I’m particularly curious about for next time: crispy, savoury coffin bread. Hopefully it isn’t fatal.
And how about some tea eggs?
There’s hustling and bustling and colours and music and dynamic life all round, reminding me of the Christmas markets in Central Europe, but with a tropical, Asian flair – and neon. And these are all year round. In short, the night market scene is an essential part of the Taipei experience.
There are several of these markets, each with their own specialities in terms of food and other fun stuff: Shilin Night Market is the largest and best known. And Raohe Street Night Market, I hear, is a food lovers paradise.
One day, I’ll go back and explore those two and a whole lot of the others. This time, we settle for just one, and wander off from our lodgings. Luckily, we end up in Ximending, which turns out to be one very cool area.
Ximending
Ximending Night Market is a lively maze of street food stalls, arcades, souvenirs, and quirky finds. Fun place to shop, eat, and people-watch. The area is also full of fashion boutiques and colourful street art. We almost have to buy an extra bags for all the Christmas presents, but manage to cram it in. Barely.
Taipei’s Rainbow Six Crossing
Rainbow zebra crossings are all the rage almost everywhere these days. Even my little hometown has one. They’re nice, aren’t they, brightening up otherwise grey and often gloomy streets. More importantly, they send a message of inclusion, and Ximending is an area where this is in particularly high regard. Lots of gay bars in the area, where non-gays are welcome as well.
Taipei’s Rainbow Six Crossing, just outside Ximending metro station, is the city’s most Instagrammed spot. Can’t miss it.
Lewd food
We decide to forgo street food, and instead…
With a name like that, have to check it out…
The owner originally had an ice cream shop, selling ice cream swirls served in miniature toilets. That turned out to be a big success. ‘Let’s take this scatology one step further,’ he must have thought. And as Modern Toilet is becoming a chain, both in Taiwan and further afield, he must have been on to something.
You’d think something so disgusting would be a hard sell. Yet… here we are.
Some of the food items on the menu have gross names. A Constipated Turd Sub Sandwich with Taiwanese Urine Beer, anyone? And maybe some Molten Chocolate Brownie Poop Balls for dessert, with a Dark Piss Americano Coffee?
Grossed out yet?
The chairs are proper loos (not operating ones, obviously), and the tables are glass-topped sinks, with, erm… things in them.
Pull up a loo, why don’t you
Spot the dangling lights? The shower heads? The wall art? Happy to report our food is good, though. And is presented with non-disgusting names on the menu.
But enough with the toilet talk – and goodnight Taipei!
Top of the morning to you, Taipei
We have a flight to Shanghai in the evening. Despite that, we have a fairly slow morning. Important to get the necessary rest when not in top form.
Taipei 101
We begin the day at the city’s most iconic of Taipei’s tourist attractions, the 508-metre-high Taipei 101. When it opened on New Year’s Eve in 2004, this was the tallest building on the planet. Six years later, it was overtaken by Burj Khalifa (which, at 828 metres, still reigns supreme), and has fallen steadily down the list of the tallest skyscrapers in the world, and has now even dropped to 11th tallest.
508 metres, Sophie. 508!
Highest or 11th highest, Taipei 101 is an experience to be, well, experienced. It is an iconic structure, one of the marvels of modern architecture, and a symbol Taipei’s rapid growth and technological prowess including what was once the world’s fastest lift – we’re talking 60.6 km/h. 37 seconds is all it takes to practically fly from the 5th to the 89th floor. Panoramic views of Taipei’s skyline, and surrounding mountains and forests from the observation deck.
Snazzy, sizeable shopping mall in the first few floors of Taipei 101
At night, Taipei 101 comes alive with clever colourful lighting, casting a mesmerising glow across the city. So they say. And I believe it. But sadly, we fly out as darkness falls, so no Taipei 101 in technicolour this time. The fireworks show on New Year’s Eve is one of the largest and most spectacular in Asia.
Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall
Another iconic Taipei landmark is Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, a monumental tribute to Taiwan’s former president, set in 240.000 m2.
Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, one of the most famous historical sites in Taipei
The huge white structure has four distinct sides, and it takes a bit of time to walk around it. Notice the octagonal roof? The number 8 is important in Chinese culture, a symbol of good luck and abundance.
Chiang Kai-shek was 89 when he died. Guess how many steps are in the two stairways at the main entrance.
Bit hard to count, eh?
At ground level is a library and a museum devoted to Chiang.
Here he is, talking to the people – and here are his official state cars, both Cadillacs, 1955 and 1972, respectively.
Upstairs is a statue of the man himself,
– and outside are gorgeous gardens, with the National Theatre and Concert Hall,
– as well as Liberty Square.
Taipei’s Liberty Square, front and back
PS: A 15-minute changing of the guard ceremony takes place every hour on the hour, between 09.00 and 17.00 – that’s nine – 9 – times per day! Don’t ask how we missed it, cause I couldn’t tell ya.
What else?
High tech and old-world charm seems to go hand-in-hand here in Taipei, all quite effortlessly. There’s lots I want to see next time, including:
The National Palace Museum: the world’s largest collection of Chinese art and artefacts, 700,000+ pieces, spanning 8,000 years. Ancient jade carvings, calligraphy, porcelain…
The UNESCO-listed Bao’an Temple, one of the best-preserved examples of Taiwanese architecture.
Longshan Temple in the old district, the oldest and most famous of Taipei’s temples. dedicated to Guanyin, the Buddhist goddess of mercy. Sounds like a lovely sanctuary from busy city life.
So does Da’an Forest Park, 64 hectares of greenery in the city, and –
Yangmingshan National Park and Beitou Hot Springs, a short drive/metro-ride from the city centre: public hot springs in a natural, open-air setting, hiking trails, city- and mountain views. Cherry blossoms and azaleas in spring!
Food with kitsch and kink: Turns out, Taiwan has more than just toilet-themed restaurants. There’s a jail restaurant, a hospital one, a sex one (that may or may not be permanently closed), a paper-themed one (all cardboard), a 1940s one… the list goes on.
Last, but not least, Taiwan has lots of tech start-ups, exploring the latest in gadgets, robotics and digital solutions at Taipei Computer Association and the Innovative Taiwan Excellence Pavilion. Sounds like a fun outing.
Ending with more colour: Roaders, our fun little Taipei hotel/social hub. (Nope, nothing sponsored.)
A Tiny Taste of Taipei is a post from Sophie’s World