I have finally managed to visit Kish, folks. Here’s how that went down.
Wednesday 13 Nov: Stepping off Ethiopian Airlines at OSL in the early hours, after exciting and tightly packed days in Burundi and Comoros. Head straight for a day at the office. Get home. 5 minutes later, stumble into bed. Sleep for 12 solid hours.
Thursday 14 Nov: Getting restless. Hm… where can I go? This on-again, off-again project of mine – to visit every country in the world – is getting seriously, well, on-again! Next week is hectic, so I only have the weekend. Where haven’t I been, that is nearby? As I open the laptop, in pops a message from fellow extreme traveller, Bjørn, exploring the Middle East at the moment. He’s off to Kish this weekend.
In 2009, whilst waiting for a flight home, I wrote a little reportage from Dubai Airport’s Terminal 2. Back then, unlike the rest of the fancy-schmanzy DXB, Terminal 2 was a shoddy place, with flights going to strange destinations on fishy airlines. Ariana Afghan Airlines to Kabul, Qeshm Air to Qeshm, Kish Airlines to Kish… Who had even heard of Kish? Or Qeshm?
I simply had to go and see these mysterious places! And I have been on my way a few times since 2009, but strangely, something has always gotten in the way, the latest in October, when my plan to visit Kish was thwarted, due to the current Israel/Iran hostility. Wouldn’t have expected a belligerent Israeli prime minister to be a something, but there you are.
Seems things have calmed down a bit. And Kish is near(ish). Back at the laptop, I check flights to Dubai. Hm… Emirates has a sale. 5 minutes later, tickets in (virtual) hand. I’m nothing if not impulsive efficient. I let Bjørn know he will have the pleasure of my company this weekend. Lucky guy!
Friday 15 Nov: Late afternoon flight to Dubai. Night in an airport sleeping pod.
Saturday 16 Nov: Early(ish) morning @ DXB, Terminal 2
Only have to look up 4 this time: Multan, Lar, Taif, and Kozhikode (in Pakistan, Iran, Saudi Arabia, and India, respectively)
The flight from Dubai takes about 50 minutes with FlyDubai. Kish Airlines would perhaps have been more exciting, but last minuters can’t be choosers.
Welcome to Kish
Just after passport control, is a man with a bunch of yellow scarves wrapped over his arm. He hands me one, and I’m aware enough to understand I should probably put it on.
Not partial to enforced headwear, or enforced anything, really. But when in Rome… And I do like the colour.
But where is Kish, you ask? And what is it?
Kish is an island in the Persian Gulf, in the Strait of Hormuz, 19km from mainland Iran. A very strategic location, connecting Iran with other parts of the Middle East and India. Even East Africa. Not surprisingly, Kish has been a significant trade hub for centuries.
People have lived on Kish ever since the ancient civilisations of Persia. Over the centuries, it has been under the control of various empires, including the Sassanids and Portuguese pirates explorers, who occupied the island in the 16th century.
Today, Kish is a free trade zone – and visa free for stays up to 14 days. Iran wants to position the island as a rival to Dubai or Doha, so in addition to easy entry, there are various projects afoot to attract foreign investment and international trade. There’s a separate stock exchange (i.e. petroleum bourse) for Kish, and banking services are very flexible. Full foreign ownership is allowed, and there are various legal guarantees, not to mention a 15 year tax-exemption.
The island is a popular tourist destination – Iranian tourists, for the most part. Crystal-clear waters, warm tropical climate, expansive sandy shores… all you need for a beach holiday right there. For us non-Iranians, it means an easy glimpse of Iran – perhaps the easiest.
Also, laws are much more relaxed than on the mainland. I started out with good intentions, wearing the yellow shawl, and, you know, being demure n’all. It was very windy, though, and it kept blowing off. Finally, I didn’t care anymore – and noticed other women not wearing much in the way of head gear either. All without attracting any form of reprimand, or even attention.
Things to see and do on Kish Island
We decide we want to see Kariz Underground City, the Historical Cistern, Harireh Ancient City, the Guardian of the Sea, and the Greek Ship. With no time to waste, we find a car rental office, conveniently located just behind the hotel.
Bit of paperwork. The guy has to fill the car up with petrol, and we have to take him back to the office. But then we are on our way.
Browsing the map does not do much good. Neither of us are well versed in Persian script…
…but the SatNav works well. And Kish is an easy, little island to drive around, less than half an hour between the eastern- and westernmost points.
Kariz Underground City
Kariz is a remarkable structure built more than 2,500 years ago. Just like Augsburg, it is a sophisticated water management system, with a network of subterranean canals – qanats – used to transport freshwater from aquifers deep beneath the island’s surface. They were much needed, these qanats, in such an arid desert environment where rain is rare.
Kariz is indeed a testament to the ingenuity of ancient Persian engineers, and their ability to adapt to harsh environmental conditions.
Historical Cistern
The old cistern is a 4-minute drive from Kariz, and is also about that life-sustaining water. This was one of Kish’ traditional water reservoirs. The structure consists of large underground chambers designed to collect and store rainwater, which was then accessed via a system of wells and tunnels. More ancient ingenuity at work here, including thick walls to prevent water from evaporating, and an innovative ventilation system to keep the water cool.
According to info at the site, ‘indigenous knowledge on rainwater harvesting and surface water management’ explains why (and presumably how) people have managed to live on this island for centuries, despite the challenging climate.
Harireh Ancient City
A further 3 minutes away is Harireh, an ancient, abandoned city from the 5th century CE. Wandering around here, it is hard to imagine this as a thriving urban centre and trade hub. Harireh is thought to have been part of a larger network of maritime trade routes connecting the Persian Gulf with the Arabian Sea and beyond.
Excavations here have uncovered all sorts of structures: houses, mosques, public buildings, as well as well-preserved frescoes and pottery. Why was it abandoned? Inquiring minds want to know. Well, we can only guess. Natural disasters could be an explanation. Or simply shifting patterns of trade?
But the abandoned city is not all. In addition to the ancient ruins, you can see a very old tree. A symbol of resilience and continuity, perhaps? You know I love trees, and this one, old and tired, well, it’s almost a little mystical, isn’t it…
Did you hear my wish, old tree?
Guardian of the Sea
This iconic 7-metre high bronze human is brazing the elements, whilst watching over the sea and protecting Kish and its maritime surroundings.
Designed and constructed by Iranian artist Parviz Tanavoli
The sculpture is inspired by an ancient Persian legend, where the guardian is a powerful divine being, who watches over the gulf, preventing storms, shipwrecks, and any dangers that threaten those at sea. It is an artistic representation, you might say, of the relationship between the islanders and their belief in the divine force that protects them. And why not? There’s a lot of power in belief.
The Greek Ship
Just like in Juba, the most famous attraction here in Kish, is an old shipwreck that ran aground many years ago and has simply been left to rust.
I suppose the Guardian of the Sea must have been watching over the sailors on the MV Salamina, the large Greek cargo ship that ran aground here sometime in the 70s (details seem to be blurry on the exact year). The ship was navigating the Persian Gulf when it experienced mechanical failure, which led to it drifting off course and eventually grounding on the island’s shore. Despite various attempts to salvage the ship, it remained stranded, and over time, it became a part of the landscape.
During daytime, that rusted frame creates a striking contrast with the turquoise waters of the Persian Gulf and the sandy beaches. At sunset, people gather here. Quite photogenic, that old rusty boat. A photographers’ favourite.
Where to eat on Kish Island
I only have one option for you, folks. I’m sure there are other good ones, but, you know, limited time here and so on…
Havari is a solid choice, though. A bit lacking with choices of drink, but the food is great (seafood is the main player here). The hard-working staff goes out of their way to make sure we are happy with the service, including running our to the shops to get the drinks we want (lemonade, sodas and the like, strictly no alcohol. It is Iran, you know).
(Having a bit of fun with the name, though. In Norwegian, havari means breakdown and is a word most often used to describe a breakdown at sea.)
Goodbye Kish
Sunday 17 Nov: Goodbye Kish. Overnight downtown Dubai. At the women’s security check at Kish airport, is the only time I’m told (nicely, mind) to put on more clothes than the t-shirt I’m wearing. No bare arms. Fortunately, I have a jumper tied around my waist. After security, no one cares.
Monday 18 Nov: homeward bound.
Kish practicals
Visa: All tourists can stay on the island up to 14 days without a visa.
Getting there: Kish Airlines and Fly Dubai will get you from Dubai or Abu Dhabi in ca. 50 minutes, often faster. I heard rumours of a ferry, this may or may not be in operation. Just fly.
Getting around: Kish is a compact little island, only 91 km2. There is no public transport, but taxis are cheap. Renting a car is easy, and driving is easy. You could even walk, if you are feeling energetic in the heat.
Water activities: Did not try it myself, but snorkelling and scuba-diving are rumoured to be fantastic. Most other water sports are available as well. Men and women have separate beaches; unfortunately most of the snorkelling, etc, seems to be happening from the mens’ beaches.
Visiting other islands in the Strait of Hormuz: Qeshm is another free-trade, visa-free Iranian island. As far as I can see, per now (January 2025), no regular international flights or ferries operate between Qeshm and other countries in the Persian Gulf, but several do from Bandar Abbas on the mainland. Qeshm has a unique landscape, including mangrove forests and the world’s longest salt cave. In fact, the island is on UNESCO’s tentative world heritage list. Possibly even more interesting than Kish, in other words. I’ll have to get back to you on that. Stay tuned.
Accommodations: We used 1stquest, a travel portal for lesser-known destinations. I’m giving them a mention here for good service, both now and when I had to cancel a month earlier.
Shopping: Kish is intended to compete with Dubai, so you will find malls and shopping centres galore here on the little island. I travelled with a small pack, so couldn’t let myself be tempted.
Dress code: Although the moral code is more relaxed than in mainland Iran, women are encouraged to dress conservatively. Men should not wear shorts, but can otherwise dress seemingly how they want. Man or woman, use your common sense, and adapt to what the locals do. Headscarves are provided free of charge for women on arrival at Kish airport.
Alcohol is not available on the island. That would be taking the more relaxed laws too far.
Kish Island: Iran light is a post from Sophie’s World