I have an intriguing little titbit of a country for you today, folks. A country with some obvious in-your-face problems – but also with huge potential. The Moon Islands.
In November, Syria was on the agenda for some of us. But then things happened there. Travels had to be deferred. So what to do with the time set aside?
How about Comoros, suggests David. Mel and I jump right in. We are all three on a quest to see the world, and decide to meet up on Grande Comore, arriving from all over the place.
Not heard of Comoros? You’re not alone. Other island nations in the Indian Ocean are much better known. Most everyone has heard of Zanzibar, Madagascar, Seychelles, Mauritius… but this archipelago off the southeastern coast of Africa, remains a bit of a secret. As a result, not many visitors find their way here. During our stay, the only foreigners we bump into, are here for work: sailors, aid workers, and the like.
And Moon Islands? The name Comoros derives from the Arabic word for moon: qamar.
Pristine beaches, crystal-clear waters – and plastic pollution
You know that image of a white beach with sand as soft as powdered sugar, stretching along turquoise waters, fringed by flourishing vegetation and coral reefs? Well, it is right here! Palm fronds waving in the gentle breeze. Hardly another soul about. Not a single sun lounger or parasol in sight. Just you and the sound of the waves. Total tranquility.
Never have I seen beaches more beautiful than those on Grande Comore. Never have I stepped in softer sand, or seen the ocean sparkle like sapphires quite like here. Not a scrap of rubbish pollute the view.
Plage de Mitsamiouli – even more gorgeous than a photo can convey
<Rant>
Sadly, the lack of rubbish is not extended to other parts of the island. Not even to all the beaches. As in many African countries, plastic bottles and other refuse are deposited anywhere, simply because there is no rubbish disposal system. No recycling centre, no waste collection, not even a tip. Setting up a waste management project here is a business opportunity, if ever there was one. And if you can add on a plant for transforming waste to energy, that would be a welcome development. Power outages are quite common.
Issa, our guide in Comoros, is quite enthusiastic about this. Up until 20 years ago, he tells us, there were no plastic bottles on the islands. But they were welcome. As most homes have no running water, people had to trek into the village to get it, so this newfangled thing made life easier.
A public health disaster
People here have always thrown away banana peel and the like, he continues. This might not have been visually appealing, but it was generally no problem; organic materials break down and are absorbed by nature. The assumption then, was that the same would happen with the plastic bottles. You use it – and then toss it, wherever you happen to be.
Issa, who works for the island’s tourism company, now educates local communities on the perils of pollution. But it isn‘t easy. We know what plastic does to the planet – and not just visually. This is a public health issue with tragic consequences. Plastic ending up in the ocean becomes part of the food cycle. Fish ingest plastic particles, and we eat the fish.
Scrapping cars in Comoros
Plastic is not the only culprit here. Abandoned motor vehicles is another. Cars, lorries, busses… all left by the wayside to rust, because there simply is nowhere to dispose of them. Here are just a few of the ones we went past:
Along the road on Grande Comore
– and scrapping boats
This is Moroni, capital of Comoros. Looks like a nice little harbour, doesn’t it…
Sadly, the rubbish ordeal continues here. And in a way, this is even worse. Abandoned wrecks from Sri Lanka have simply been dumped here and left to rot, turning the little harbour into a boat graveyard.
Someone must have approved this. And possibly made a profit.
Children swim and play in the water here!
</Rant>
The depressing rubbish situation aside, Grande Comore – or Ngazidja in Swahili – is still a fascinating island to visit. And there is a glimmer of light in the environmental darkness. I’ll get back to that in the story of the coelocanth further along here.
What to see and do on Grande Comore
Northern Grande Comore
Grande Comore is the largest and most populous island in the Comoros, with an interesting blend of African, Arab and French culture. And nature’s beauty abounds. If only we humans could do our bit…
Moroni
Since we are already in Moroni, we’ll begin here. First off, though: do not limit your visit to the capital. The island has some truly gorgeous spots and amazing hiking opportunities. In my opinion, Moroni is the least appealing part of the island, and if that is all you see, you will be left with the wrong impression. (It would be like a former colleague of mine who travelled to Budapest and found it ugly and scary. Turned out, she had spent about 2 hours in town, all of it in the area immediately around Keleti railway station.)
Place de l’Europe in Moroni
That said, Moroni does have some interesting spots. The architecture is an engaging mix of traditional Comorian, side by side with French colonial style. There are bustling markets and lovely mosques, like the 15th century Old Friday Mosque, Masjid al-Jumu’ah, you can see in the harbour photos above.
In addition to Shikomori (Comorian), Arabic and French are the official languages of Comoros. You might as well forget about English, it is completely irrelevant here. At the fish market, though, we are met with disgruntled looks when trying to communicate in French. The fish vendors get a bit testy. It appears French is not acceptable. They refuse to answer in anything other than Comorian. I reckon the strained relationship between Comoros and Mayotte has something to do with that.
Moroni fish market
Comoros and Mayotte
When Comoros held a referendum on independence in 1975, the residents of three of the then four islands voted for independence. However, the fourth island – Mayotte – voted against, and is now the 101st departement of France. This caused – and continues to cause – resentment here on Grande Comore.
And the resentment goes both ways. Mayotte is a gateway to the EU for economic migrants from Comoros. Just like the migrants crossing the ocean to get to Lampedusa (or any number of Greek or Spanish islands), Comorians risk their life in rickety boats to get to Mayotte. And when they do get there, things are not easy. The official census says Mayotte has ca 320,000 inhabitants. It is estimated that illegal immigrants double that number, putting a heavy burden on services.
Next to the harbour in Moroni is a large sign saying Mayotte est Comorienne et le restera à jamais.
Mayotte is Comorian and will remain so forever.
On Mayotte is an equally large sign, with the words Mayotte est Francais et le restera à jamais. On a tricolour background.
And me? Well, now I want to visit Mayotte. Watch this space!
Main square of Moroni
Old Medina of Moroni
1,000 years ago, Arab merchants arrived from Zanzibar, founded Moroni and set up shop, creating a maze of narrow lanes. It is quiet here today. Very quiet. Hardly anyone about. The dilapidated buildings look like they haven’t seen any renovation in a long time. As African historic old towns go, it could not be more different from the Medina of Marrakech.
The same could be said about the souk. The big market in Moroni is noisy and colourful, ramshackle and a bit… inhospitable. Today, at least.
Itsandra
On the northern outskirts of Moroni is Itsandra, with a waterfront, nice beaches, and Beit-Salam Palace, residence of the current president of Comoros. Another residence – or rather, the ruins of a residence, is the former Palace of the Sultan of Itsandra, one of the most important of the 10 sultans that ruled Grande Comore until the French colonised the islands.
Sturdy stone walls and steep stairs. Sadly, like much of the island, it is not very well maintained. Can’t fault the views, though.
Iconic Ikoni
Moving on to the other side of Moroni, we continue to the ancient capital, Ikoni, a city with a tumultuous past.
Comoros is relatively isolated. It is also strategically located here in the Indian Ocean. No wonder the archipelago became a haven for pirates in the 17th and 18th centuries. And not only pirates, but also foreign powers looking to control trade or simply loot.
As an important centre of trade, Ikoni faced frequent attacks from foreigners, especially pirates from Madagascar. According to local legend, women would chose to jump from the cliffs, rather than being captured or enslaved by the pirates, to preserve their honour.
On the right is Kapviri Djewe, the old palace of the Sultan, built from blocks of lava.
Comoros society
Comoros is a traditional, conservative and 100% Islamic country, and Ikoni played a key role in the spread of Islam on the islands.
Ikoni’s Friday Mosque
One of the most important cultural traditions in Comoros is the wedding. There are two types: the Petit Mariage and the Grand Mariage.
The big wedding is the one men strive for. The big wedding lasts minimum one week, and can easily cost 20 million Comorian franc (about 40,000€). This, in a country where the average salary is 650€/month.
Many gifts will be exchanged, especially gold, so this is good for businesses – and for the local economy. Most of the gifts go from the groom’s family to the bride, giving women some financial independence. On the other hand, and rather unusually, the bride’s family must provide a home for the groom after the wedding. Often, that means the man moves in with his wife’s family.
It is also a question of social order and of shame. A man who cannot afford a big wedding will not get far in life: work, family, or otherwise. He will not have any say in political processes, even on a local level. He cannot wear certain types of clothes, and cannot sit in the front of the mosque. This man is simply not considered a proper grown-up.
We wander through Ikoni’s medina, the historic old town, past traditional houses made from coral stone, wood and palm trees. Centuries-old mosques have intricate carvings and designs, showing the deep Islamic heritage.
This was once a thriving hub of trade, where merchants from all across the Indian Ocean came to exchange goods: spices, cloth, ivory, etc. Today, it is a quiet place. A reminder of the past.
Place des Hommes and Place des Femmes
The Men’s Square and the Women’s Square are two significant areas in Ikoni’s medina. One was for important discussions, and served as venue of various local ceremonies regarding leadership, decision-making, and trade. The other was for socialising, markets, and domestic activities. I don’t have to tell you which is which.
Men playing dominoes on Place des Hommes
Medina of Ikoni
Lovely landscapes on Grande Comore
I mentioned gorgeous spots …
Landscape near Ikoni. It is a little difficult to see in the photo, but that’s a water tunnel there. Magical!
Fascinating to see trees and vegetation growing in lava
Volcano hikes
I also mentioned hiking opportunities, so let’s get on with that.
Grande Comore is dominated by Mount Karthala, one of the world’s largest and most active volcanoes. The peak rises to an impressive 2,361 meters, and the caldera (the large hollow, like a cauldron, formed after an eruption) creates a striking landscape. The terrain is also home to crater lakes and hot springs. All round, is lush forest and rare species of flora and fauna. But she is a temperamental lady, that Karthala.
Want to hike to the summit? It is challenging but you are rewarded with panoramic views of the island and the surrounding seas. You can hike to the crater’s rim, and, depending on volcanic activity, even peer into the steaming crater. Count on a full day. Do check local conditions before hiking, though, as volcanic eruptions sometimes occur without much warning. Guided treks are available, they usually start at 04.00 in the morning.
We opt for an easier volcano hike, in Ouzio in the north of the island.
Bit of bushwalking to get there, through fertile landscape.
As we’re nearing the top of the volcano, the wind increases in strength. Unusually windy, says Issa.
At the top, it feels as if my clothes will blow right off me. And slightly scary, I feel I have to struggle not to tumble into the crater.
Best head back down. A bit further down, I feel happy to be more in control. So happy, I skip down the hill – and end up stumbling and twisting my knee. Seems I never learn. But nice to be back in the jungle, all the same.
Comoros baobab
We are eager to see the legendary baobab with its distinctive wide trunk and gnarly branches. I love trees, and have always wanted to see this species, the Tree of Life!
Now there were some terrible seeds on the planet that was the home of the little prince; and these were the seeds of the baobab… It spreads over the entire planet. It bores clear through it with its roots. And if the planet is too small, and the baobabs are too many, they split it in pieces . . .
Antoine de Saint-Exupéry: Le Petit Prince
Poor little prince! Fortunately, I don’t live on a small asteroid. My planet has plenty of room for trees.
They can grow to an impressive 30m height, these trees – and live for thousands of years, because they store vast amounts of water in the trunk. Baobabs also produce large, nutrient-rich fruits, and their leaves, bark, and seeds are used in various traditional medicines and foods. In short, these resilient giants play an important role in the ecosystem, and they provide shelter, food, and water to people and wildlife. Its origin is in Madagascar, and I look forward to seeing them there later.
This baobab has a restaurant built around it.
And the views…
Lac Salé
Next to the gorgeous Mitsamiouli Beach (in the top two photos) is Lac Niamawi, or Salt Lake, the result of one of cranky Karthala’s many eruptions, this one in the 16th century. Over time, the crater filled with salt water, creating a lake. The high sulphur content is said to have healing properties, and the lake is sacred to Comorians.
Sacred – and cursed! Legend has it, a witch came to Niamawi village, asking for water, but nobody obliged. (This was clearly in the time before plastic bottles). ‘A curse will descend upon you’, said the witch. ‘You will suffer the wrath of volcanic eruption.’ And so they did. Niamwi was drowned, replaced with a salt lake.
Also, according to legend (possibly the same one), the little lake has no bottom. In 1977, six Belgian divers jumped in to explore. They were never seen again. So the story goes.
We toss stones, trying to hit the water. It is surprisingly hard. No wishes coming true today.
Anjouan and Mohéli, the two other islands in Comoros
You can travel between the three islands in the archipelago by plane (ca 25 min) or by ‘ferry’, leaving from Chindini in the south of the island.
Chindini
The Marine Park in Mohéli is a nesting site for endangered sea turtles, and is also one of the last safe places for the dugong (sea cow).
Baby turtles! Reason enough to return to Comoros!
Boat’s just in
The Tale of the Curious Coelacanth
Once upon a time, 400 million years ago, there was a fish we now know as coelacanth. The coelacanth disappeared at the time of the dinosaurs, 66 million years ago. Or so we thought.
Imagine everyone’s surprise and delight, when fisher folk found one in 1938, alive and well, off the coast of Anjouan. Here was a living example of a creature that had survived major mass extinctions.
The coelacanth has limb-like fins, and so are close cousins to the first vertebrates that first transitioned from water to land.
Nature v. human activity 1 – 0
This prehistoric wonder can be found around Anjouan, where the deep, volcanic underwater cliffs provide a unique environment for it. This is one of only two coelacanth populations in the world (the other is off the coast of South Africa). So naturally, the coelacanth needs protection. In 2007, Comoros established the Coelacanth National Park, to take care of just that. This included closing down a factory located near the water where the fish was discovered, to protect its habitat.
Foumbouni
The final town we visit on Grande Comore is Foumbouni in the south, another power centre during the reign of the sultans. It served as a citadel because of its fortifications, erected after a raid in 1798 from Malagasy pirates, with their pesky tendencies to loot and kidnap people. Not that Europeans were any better. The Portuguese were especially aggressive; their raids were part of a broader strategy to dominate the region’s lucrative spice and slave trade. In 1512, Portuguese explorers and pirates launched an attack on Foumbouni.
Looks peaceful today, folks gathering at the tree on the square in Foumbouni.
Comoros practicals
Not exactly babies, but still cute, these turtles wandering about the grounds at Itsandra Beach Hotel
Visa: Everyone requires a visa to visit Comoros. Visa on arrival is good for 45 days. USD is not a popular currency in Comoros. Some shops will accept it, but it is hard to spend, and the exchange rate is atrocious. I had dollars I wanted to get rid of, and ended up paying USD50 instead of EUR30 for the visa!
Getting there: Air France and KLM, cooperating with Kenya Airways, fly from Europe to Moroni, via Nairobi. Ethiopian Airlines flies via Addis Ababa. Air Tanzania flies from Dar-es Salaam. There are a few other options, as well. If you have time, it’s also possible to catch a lift with a freighter from Dar, Zanzibar or Madagascar. David and Mel arrived from Nairobi and Dar; I arrived from Bujumbura.
Getting around: There are no trains or busses, so you will need to hire a car or bike, or use taxis. Our time is limited, so we have a local guide/driver, Issa Omar, organised through Adore Comores, and happily recommend him. Flights or ferries go between the islands, and to Mayotte, with onward connections to Reunion. Next time!
Accommodations: We stayed at Itsandra Beach Hotel and enjoyed it.
Water activities: Comoros offers fantastic snorkelling and diving, as well as dolphin spotting.
Sunset over the Indian Ocean at Itsandra. Overhead whizz by. Bats galore.
All photos by David Røgler, Melissa G. Mitruen, and myself.
Comoros: nature v. human activity is a post from Sophie’s World