Experience the Magic of a Danube Christmas Market Cruise

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Join us on a Viking River Cruise and experience the magic of a Danube Christmas Market Cruise from Budapest to Passau. Read on for our experience and tips to create your own Christmas magic.

I first discovered Christmas Markets in 1983 when my husband was stationed in Germany. I was about five months pregnant then, and Bill and I were alone far from home for the first time over the holidays. I was lonely and wondered how we could embrace the holidays so far from family. We drove to nearby Trier, a beautiful Roman city celebrating its 2000th anniversary that year, and discovered the Trierer Weihnachts Markt. Sometimes called Christkindlesmarkts, these holiday markets are a centuries-old European tradition.

I was mesmerized by twinkling lights, Christmas carols, and the smell of roasting chestnuts and spiced wine. People were friendly and jovial, and I suddenly felt the holiday spirit, even though I was half a world away from everything I knew. We enjoyed the markets every year we were there, and we always wanted to return but had never had the chance—until Christmas 2023, exactly 40 years after our first Christmas Market. 

Bill and I set off on a Viking River Cruise from Budapest, Hungary, to Passau, Germany, where we could experience the magic of the Christmas Markets again. Read on for our favorite Christmas Markets along the Danube, plus a few tips to help you make the most of your time exploring the magical Christmas Markets on your Viking River Cruise. 

Christkindlmarkt History

The original Christkindlmarkt dates to the mid-1500s in Nuremberg, Germany. Initially a way for the townspeople to stock up on food and supplies for the long, cold winters, the markets soon became part of the Christmas gift-giving tradition. 

While initially celebrated only during Advent, today’s Christmas markets typically start at the end of November and run until Christmas Eve. However, each can vary, so you should do some research to determine the dates. While each market is a bit different, they all feature traditional lebkuchen (similar to gingerbread), marzipan, bratwurst, pretzels, baked apples, pastries, and roasted chestnuts.

You might also want to purchase a glühwein, or hot spiced wine, at each market. You can pay a bit extra to have your glühwein served in a collector’s mug. Most markets offer mugs each year, and collecting them from the various markets has become a tradition. We had folks on our boat who collected one at each market and packed them in their bags to take home as souvenirs. 

Christmas Cheer Onboard the Viking Vilhjalm

The Christmas market cruises last eight to twelve days, allowing you to explore multiple markets along your route through various European countries. Viking offers eight different Christmas Market cruises throughout Europe. Each cruise includes one or more complimentary and several optional (for a fee) excursions in each port. 

Bill and I embarked on the Danube Christmas Delights itinerary, featuring eight days on the Viking Vilhjalm, one of the Viking Longships, with a maximum of 190 guests and 53 crew members. We set sail in Budapest and cruised the Danube through Hungary, Slovakia, and Austria, ending in Passau, Germany. 

Bill and I both flew into Budapest on separate flights. Bill arrived earlier in the day—without his coat! He had accidentally left it in the car at the airport. With the weather calling for temperatures below freezing almost every day of the trip, his first task in Budapest was to find a coat. He asked some of the crew—they’re frequently in Budapest for layovers and know all the best shopping spots—and headed out to find something suitable.

Tip: There are excellent shopping areas within walking distance of where the boats dock in Budapest. Ask onboard for walking directions. You can find everything from major international chains to small boutiques.

When I arrived, it was raining, and temperatures hovered just above freezing. I quickly passed through customs and met a Viking representative. She ushered me to my driver, who transported a handful of late arrivals to our boat via motorcoach. He delivered us safely to the ship, where the crew awaited us.

I had sailed this exact route on the Viking Vilhjalm, but this time, I was met with Christmas cheer as I stepped onboard. The main lobby was decked out for the holidays, and I was eager to start the cruise. 

Exploring Budapest

After dinner in The Restaurant, Bill and I greeted a few fellow passengers, had a nightcap in the lounge, and turned in early after a long day of international travel. The next day, we woke early, had breakfast, and were ready to explore our first Christmas markets. 

The Included Budapest Tour

We had both been to Budapest before with Viking, so we opted to forego the included 3.5-hour Panoramic Budapest tour. However, I recommend this tour for first-time visitors. The Viking guides are all locals, so they have inside information about the city. You head out in your motor coach to explore the Pest side of town, with its modern buildings and spacious plazas. Then, you head up the hill to the traditional Buda side of the city. There, you’ll have a chance to walk along the old, cobbled streets and wander into the turreted Fisherman’s Bastion and glorious Matthias Church. Of course, views over Pest and the famous Chain Bridge are unforgettable from this vantage point. 

Exploring Vörosmarty Square

As with most European cities, there are multiple Christmas Markets in Budapest. The St. Stephen’s Basilica market is small, as is the one up the hill in Buda’s Fö Square, while Vörösmarty Square is home to the city’s largest market. Bill and I headed for Vörösmarty Square. We wanted to explore the shops lining the nearby streets, wander the market, and find a café where we could enjoy hot cocoa, coffee, and pastries mid-morning.

Since we were early for the market, we went to Café Gerbeaud, just off the square. I love this café for its history and ambiance.

In the summer in Budapest, I enjoyed my favorite iced coffee—Eiskaffee in German—with cold coffee poured over vanilla ice cream. I was addicted to those back when we lived in Germany, so I always love finding them on European menus. Since the iced coffee at Gerbeaud was good, I was eager to sample something warm, along with one of their beautiful pastries. I was mesmerized by the beautiful Christmas decor when we walked into the café. 

Bill opted for the hot dark chocolate with whipped cream. I was torn between the Gerbeaud Coffee (Americano with apricot liqueur, whipped cream, and walnut croquant) or the Sissi Coffee (Americano with orange liqueur and vanilla foam). I opted for the Sissi Coffee, although Bill’s hot chocolate was excellent, and the Gingerbread Latte at the next table smelled scrumptious. 

Dozens of beautiful desserts filled the case, but it was still early, so I opted for a Pain au Chocolat. I had intended to return to try the Gerbeaud Cream Cake (pastry layers, bourbon vanilla cream), the Esterházy slice (gluten-free walnut cake with brandy-flavored vanilla cream), the Gerbeaud Slice (short-crust pastry, homemade apricot jam, walnuts, apricot liqueur, and a dark chocolate coating), or the Dobos Cake (traditional sponge with chocolate buttercream and hard caramel on top). But I never made it back on that trip. I think I have my first stop on the next trip to Budapest. 

Budapest Christmas Markets

After replenishing ourselves, we wandered through the market, where we tried on hats, and I ended up with a pretty faux-fur-lined sheepskin cap that kept me toasty for the remainder of our Danube journey. I discouraged Bill from purchasing the over-the-top Magyar hat made of horse hide. That was a no, but he did try it on for a photo op. 

In the late afternoon, we explored the Christmas Market at St. Stephen’s Basilica on an included Viking excursion. The lights were aglow, and the light show on the basilica’s walls was lovely. The 60-foot tree was beautiful, and the markets were filled with handcrafted goods. We did some people-watching while enjoying kurtosh, or Hungarian chimney cake. 

Christmas Cheer Onboard the Viking Vilhjalm

One of the highlights of a Viking cruise on the Danube is departing Budapest. This is one of the most magical moments on the cruise for me. On my first trip to Budapest, we sailed into the city at the end, arriving in the daytime. While that’s nice, I recommend starting from Budapest so you can sail away at night. It is beyond magical as you sail past the illuminated Hungarian Parliament Building and watch the city, with its breathtaking bridges, fall away behind you.

Since this was the Christmas Market cruise, we sailed away to the soft sounds of Christmas music. 

After a lovely dinner at the Restaurant, we headed to the lounge to decorate the tree and have a Christmas Sing-Along. Each guest had a chance to decorate an ornament to hang on the tree in the lounge. Bill and I created our 40th Anniversary “Comeback Tour” ornament. It was a fun, festive way to kick off our Christmas Market cruise on the Danube River. 

We awoke the following day, still sailing the Danube. We were due to arrive at our next destination by 2 PM, so the crew had some fun activities planned. We started our day with breakfast, and I ordered my favorite eggs Benedict as we sipped coffee and watched the villages dotting the shore. 

We headed to the lounge mid-morning, where our program director, George Siderov, talked about Mozart and Vienna Coffee Houses. We stayed in the lounge, chatting with fellow passengers and watching the scenery. After lunch and a glass of lovely Austrian wine, we prepared for our next docking in Bratislava. 

Exploring Bratislava, Slovakia

This was my third time sailing this route, so seeing Bratislava during the holidays was fun. Bratislava is the capital of Slovakia and is surrounded by Austria and Hungary. On previous trips, I had the chance to visit Bratislava Castle, a massive white structure 300 feet above the Danube. On this trip, however, we were heading the short walk from the boat to the town square. 

Bratislava Christmas Events

We followed our guide on our included excursion through the market, eagerly anticipating time later to shop. We were headed to St. Martin’s Cathedral. The cathedral has played a crucial role in Hungarian history as the place where eleven Hungarian kings and eight queens were crowned. Today, it is a concert hall, and we enjoyed a Christmas organ concert. 

After our concert, we continued on foot to explore downtown Bratislava. We walked past the rococo, late-Baroque Grassalkovich Palace, now the president’s residence. We wandered by beautiful old mansions and art nouveau homes, going down the pedestrian zone back to the market.  

Bill and I explored a little but decided to head back to the boat, opting to return to the market right before dinner to see the lights.

After dinner that evening, we returned to the lounge, where the Advent Choir Bratislava entertained us with traditional advent carols and a few classic favorites. Then, it was time to sail away to one of my favorite cities, Vienna. 

Exploring Vienna

The following day, we woke up already docked in Vienna. Although Viking offered two included tours and several optional tours, we opted to take the subway and explore independently. However, I recommend that first-time visitors to Vienna take one of the tours. 

Touring Vienna

Panoramic Vienna is the tour I took on my first Viking visit to Vienna, and they adapted it just a bit during the Christmas Market cruise. You begin on a motor coach tour that takes you along the famous Ringstrasse to see some of the most popular sights. There are stops at St. Stephen’s Cathedral to visit the Christkindlmarkt, and then you stroll through the Christmas Market around Maria Theresienplatz. After that, you can enjoy free time or return to the ship. 

Viking does a great job of making Vienna accessible for the day you’re in port. Unlike some of the stops on the itinerary, the ship does not dock in central Vienna because there’s no river there. Instead, they offer a free shuttle bus between the boat and the Rathausplatz market throughout the day. The crew also has a map of the subway stops—there is a stop just a short distance from the ship—to take you to the Christmas markets, making it easy to explore the city.

However, if this is your first visit, do plan to explore some of the other significant sights in the city, including the famous Café Sacher, the Spanish Riding School that is home to the famous Lipizzaner stallions at Josefsplatz, the glorious cathedral at Stephansplatz, the many excellent museums, and the shopping along Kohlmarkt. Viking usually offers an “up close” look at the city on its cruises through Vienna. That is a good way to see a bit of what the city has to offer.

If you have time on your own, I recommend booking a horse-drawn carriage tour of Vienna. While it’s a touristy thing, we had the best time on our carriage ride, and the driver had great insights into the area. 

There’s so much to see in Vienna that you could easily spend several days there. This is one of the spots you’ll want to add to your list of “must-visit” places for the future!

Vienna Christmas Markets

Vienna is home to some of the largest Christmas markets in Europe. The city has seven major markets, including the Christkindlmarkts at Rathausplatz, Stephansplatz, and Maria Theresienplatz. 

While we enjoyed exploring the larger and most famous (also the busiest) markets, Bill and I preferred wandering the Old Town, where we discovered several smaller markets with fewer people and more traditional offerings. 

Our favorite little market was Altwiener Chriskindlmarkt, located in Freyungplatz. Just east of Rathausplatz, this town square has been home to markets for centuries. The items in this market were mostly handcrafted, with some delicious food finds. I found some of my favorite ornaments from the trip at this market and purchased a few to send to the grandkids. 

Tip: Watch what you purchase in the bigger markets since some booths now import Christmas ornaments and goods. Look for traditional and locally made items. 

We spent most of the day in town, returning to the boat later than usual since we weren’t departing until almost midnight. After dinner and a quiet evening listening to music in the lounge, the ship became noticeably more jovial when a couple of evening excursions returned. The chef prepared a late-night snack on the Aquavit Terrace, so we headed down to try a traditional Goulash soup before turning in for the evening. 

Exploring Austria’s Wachau Valley

The following day, we arrived early in Krems, Austria. This small university town sits on the banks of the Danube in the heart of Austria’s Wachau Valley wine region. The town is small and charming. It is about one mile to walk from the ship to the city center, which I’ve enjoyed in the past. I love the little coffee shops and the pastries!

Almost everyone on the cruise headed out for the included Göttweig Abbey excursion. The abbey is still home to monks, and services are regularly performed. The oldest part of the monastery dates to 1072. The views from the monastery, looking over the Danube and the Wachau Valley, are breathtaking.

Since Bill and I had both visited the abbey, we decided to find a little coffee shop for a light breakfast and then explore the Landesgalerie Niederösterreich, or the State Gallery of Lower Austria. 

Art and Culture of Krems

We found a little café just across from where the ship was docked. While I sipped my latte, Bill enjoyed hot chocolate. We both had lovely, flaky croissants. It was then time for the museum to open, so we wandered back up the street to the incredible building just across from the marina. 

Landesgalerie Neiderösterreich is part of the Kunstmeile Krems (Krems Arts Mile), which includes a contemporary art museum housed in a former Minorite monastery, the Klangraum Krems concert venue, which was once a mendicant church, the Kunsthalle Krems, which houses modern and contemporary art in a 19th-century tobacco factory, the Karikaturmuseum, which displays political caricatures from 1900, the Artothek Niederösterreich, and the Museumkrems, which is housed in a 13th-century Dominican church and outlines the city’s history, art, and culture. 

We visited the Landesgalerie Niederösterreich several years ago when it was under construction. I was privileged to tour the space with the architect and could imagine his vision for this magnificent building. It was lovely to return and explore all five floors, filled with art from its collection of more than 100,000 pieces. The receptionist speaks English, and self-guided tours are available in English. 

The exhibits rotate through the collection, and there are also visiting exhibits. During our visit, we enjoyed the massive paper installation on the lower level by German artist Angela Glajcar. 

I recommend exploring this stunning museum and visiting the top-floor terrace for incredible valley views. The museum opens at 10 AM Tuesday through Sunday and closes on Mondays, Christmas, New Year’s Eve, and New Year’s Day. There is also a lovely gift shop on the ground floor, where I found an exquisite hand-blown glass ornament for my son and daughter-in-law. 

Sailing the Danube through the Wachau Valley

We returned to the ship in time for a late lunch, and we set sail early in the afternoon through the picturesque Wachau Valley. This is the most beautiful stretch of the journey, which includes 18 miles of UNESCO World Heritage Site through vineyards dating back to Celtic and Roman times. 

As we sailed down the Danube in the afternoon, we gathered in the Lounge for a live cooking demonstration. Chef Andras showed us how to make traditional Christollen or Weihnachtsstollen. It’s a German fruit bread that you’ll find on every table throughout the Christmas holidays. 

Dinner that evening was a Taste of Austria. All the passengers gathered in the Restaurant and on the Aquavit Terrace for an Austrian dinner. When we entered the dining room, each table was bedecked with pretzels, meats, and cheeses. The setting also included croissants, which began—not in France—but in Austria as kipferl in the 13th century. While a bit denser and softer than its flaky French cousin, our croissants made the perfect vessel for my favorite European butter. 

I enjoyed a delicious schnitzel for the main course. While it might not have been as good as my own—thanks to a schnitzel recipe from my German landlord in 1985—it was a delicious meal. 

After dinner, we all made our way to the lounge for a roaring round of Christmas trivia. 

Christmas in Linz

While we all slept, the Viking Vilhjalm pulled into Linz, our last stop in Austria. Linz emerged in the first century as a Roman settlement called Lentia. Today, Linz is the capital of Upper Austria and is world-renowned for the famous Linzer Torte, a jam-filled cake topped with almonds. 

We were docked just a short distance from Hauptplatz, the square in the heart of Old Town. We opted for the included Historic Linz excursion, which took us through the cobbled streets toward Old Town. There, we wandered along the market stalls, posed in front of the massive Christmas tree for photos, and sipped a spiced, warm glühwein to ward off the cold. 

A short subway ride from Old Town, you can take the mountain railway to Pöstlingberg. The steepest mountain railway in Europe helps you ascend the mountain and catch breathtaking views over the Danube. Be sure to step into the 18th-century pilgrimage church before returning down the mountain to the Old Town.

Excursion from Linz to Český Krumlov

Many cruise passengers take the full-day included tour from Linz to Český Krumlov, Czech Republic. Althought I did not go while on the Christmas Market cruise, I have taken this excursion and recommend visiting the fairy-tale town if you’ve never been. 

Český Krumlov is a medieval walled town that gives you the feeling of being in the middle of a fairy tale. You will stroll to Český Krumlov Castle, the highest point in the town. The views are incredible, and it feels a bit magical. After exploring the upper castle, you’ll walk over the Bear Moat (yes, there have been bears in the moat since 1707) and pass through the Castle Gate back into the town center. Český Krumlov has a beautiful market in the town square during the holidays. 

An Afternoon in Linz

After our brief walking tour, we returned to the ship for lunch and an afternoon gingerbread workshop. If you don’t do full-day excursions, things are almost always happening on the boat. When we weren’t busy with some activity, Bill and I enjoyed sitting at the bar and chatting with the bartenders. The bartenders on Viking cruises have the best stories! (Plus, they always remember that I order a glass of bubbles and usually serve it to me even before I ask.) 

Tip: When you book a Viking Cruise, opt for the Silver Spirits Package. When you book a cruise on Viking, soft drinks, coffee, tea, and juice are included with all meals. Select wines are included for lunch and dinner. However, if you want something other than water or coffee during the day, you must pay for it. The Silver Spirits Package gives you access to soft drinks, coffee drinks, premium wines, and spirits throughout the day. It also includes an expanded wine list with lunch and dinner, so be sure to ask for the Silver Spirits wine list!

After our gingerbread workshop, we returned to the Linz Christmas Market with our program director, George. It was a great chance to hear George’s take on Linz and see the market lit up at night. We posed for more photos in front of the tree, wandered through the market, and even found an adorable little shop just off the square featuring hand-crafted Austria products. 

That evening, we enjoyed entertainment in the Lounge from Salzburg Sound of Music Singers. These local performers entertained with classical pieces from Mozart, Stolz, and Lehár, as well as tunes from The Sound of Music. It was a great sendoff from Austria. 

Our Journey Comes to an End in Germany

I enjoyed all the markets we encountered, but my favorite was in Passau, Germany. Viking docks in the Old Town, making it easy to stroll along the river to the town center.

Passau is at the confluence of three rivers—the Inn, Danube, and Ilz—and is one of the oldest cities in Bavaria, dating back more than 2,000 years. It began as a settlement of the Celtic Boii tribe, and in 739, a Celtic monk founded the Passau diocese. It remained the largest diocese in the Holy Roman Empire for many years. 

Passau was an important stop in the salt trade because of its location at the confluence of major rivers. Salt from the Alpine salt mines was sent to Passau for processing. A powerful monopoly controlled this precious commodity and remained a stronghold until 1707 when salt imports to Passau were forbidden. 

I love exploring the Old Town, and since I’ve been to the town on various cruises several times now, I have some favorite spots to sit, grab a coffee, and people-watch. 

Exploring Passau

We arrived in Passau during breakfast, so Bill and I finished up, bundled up, and set off to explore. The morning was mystical, with the river shrouded in fog. Since we were obviously not getting snow on this particular cruise, it was ideal for exploring the Christmas markets. 

I always love to make St. Stephen’s Cathedral my first stop. The first house of worship on the site was built in 730, followed by a Gothic cathedral in 1280. Only the eastern facade remained intact when a fire swept through Passau in 1662. The current Baroque cathedral, rebuilt between 1668 and 1693, is home to the world’s largest pipe organ outside the US. It has 17,974 organ pipes, 233 stops, and four carillons. I was fortunate to have happened upon a service one Sunday on an earlier cruise, and I always hope to hear the organ playing when I arrive. 

Tip: On most Viking tours from May through October, you can hear the organ concert on the included walking tour (except on Sundays). It’s usually at the end of the tour and optional, but I encourage you to sit, listen, and feel the history surrounding you. 

We didn’t hear the organ on this trip but turned to explore the booths in the market, which was spread out in the square in front of the cathedral.

I enjoyed listening to Christmas carols as we wandered through the booths, nibbling bratwurst and pretzels and sipping glühwein. The smell of chestnuts roasting on an open fire wafted through the air, and local schoolchildren ran from booth to booth, counting out their Euros to purchase presents—and an exorbitant amount of sweets. 

Our Final Goodbye

All too soon, it was time to depart. We joined fellow passengers in the Lounge to hear a lecture about the Danube and its vital role in Europe—both in the past and today. We joined the Captain and his team just before dinner for a farewell toast, and then we made our way to the Restaurant for our final meal. 

I wasn’t ready for my trip to end, but I had a sense of the Christmas spirit that is often lost amid the hustle and bustle of city shopping at home. As we flew home to the US the next day, I kept thinking of all the Christmas memories Bill and I made in Europe, bridging that gap between our Christmases of 1983 and 2023. We discovered in 1983 that the Christmas Markets made us feel connected to others celebrating around the world. In 2023, Viking helped us realize once again that the spirit of Christmas helps us feel connected to others, even when far from home.

We invite you to explore Wander With Wonder for more of our favorite Viking Cruises and more fun winter travel destinations. 

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