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Explore the Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Prosecco Wine Region for a taste of exquisite wines that redefine Prosecco.
Think you know Prosecco? Think again. Prosecco isn’t just a party girl. In Conegliano-Valdobbiadene, she’s a badass, serious wine that oenophiles must put on their radar.
In the United States, Prosecco is perceived as an easy-drinking fizz that goes just as well in your brunch mimosa as it does toasting a special occasion. It’s no wonder that’s what the wine-drinking public thinks because 80 percent of Prosecco is just that—a perfectly acceptable sparkling wine, but nothing that will knock your socks off.
That is until you try Prosecco from the Conegliano-Valdobbiadene area of the region. One sip will have you contemplating if you’ve just found Champagne quality on a beer budget. I recently visited Conegliano-Valdobbiadene to see what makes this Prosecco so different from the bottles on the shelves of my local wine store.
Where is Prosecco?
The Prosecco region is located in Northeast Italy and is part of the larger Veneto region. In 2019, Prosecco was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Most of us are used to the Prosecco from the nine provinces that comprise the Prosecco DOC. In the Italian wine classification, a DOC wine has to meet strict standards and come from a specific area. The Prosecco from Conegliano-Valdobbiadene is classified as Prosecco DOCG. This is the highest level of quality in Italy.
The Prosecco wine region
DOC vs DOCG?
While all Prosecco is made from the same grape called Glera, sometimes blended with a small percentage of other white grapes, and is made using the Charmat method, the difference between DOC and DOCG comes down to geography.
Prosecco DOC comes from flat, fertile land, whereas Prosecco DOCG comes from small vineyards on the impossibly sloped hills of Conegliano-Valdobbiadene. The steep vineyards have soil that makes the grapes work harder. The fruit also enjoys more sun exposure and a big diurnal swing, all of which helps the grapes make better wine.
When you want to find a bottle of Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Prosecco, you might see Prosecco DOCG, Prosecco Superiore, or the official tongue twister of a name, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco, Superiore DOCG on the label. One easy trick is to look for the brown DOCG label running over the bottle cap. A DOC Prosecco will have a blue label.
Raise a glass to Prosecco DOCG. Photo by Dena Roché
Visiting Conegliano-Valdobbiadene
Located about an hour from Venice, extending your Italian vacation to include Conegliano-Valdobbiadene is easy. While Venice might be at just around sea level, the first thing I notice about Conegliano-Valdobbiadene is the steep slopes it’s famous for. Some vineyards have a 70 percent slope, and one wonders how anyone can harvest the grapes that grow there.
In September, the area is lush, green, and postcard-perfect as vineyards give way to idyllic Italian villages. This is a region where Nonna is still in the kitchen making pasta, the pace is slower, and community and pride are in abundance. And its small family winemakers are ready to shake up the world.
The steep vineyards Conegliano-Valdobbiadene is famous for. Photo by Dena Roché
Where to Stay in Conegliano-Valdobbiadene
For my trip to the region, I made Ca’del Poggio, near Conegliano, my base for the week. The four-star hotel was quiet and comfortable, and it had a breakfast buffet to fuel me for a day of Prosecco tasting. If you come in summer, don’t forget your swimsuit to take advantage of the infinity edge pool overlooking the gorgeous landscape. If you’re a cyclist, you likely know the Ca’del Poggio as one of Italy’s premiere cycling events. The hotel has a biking theme and caters to those who plan to cycle through the vineyards.
If you’re looking for a bit more luxe, I’d recommend Casa Valdo Country House at the Valdo vineyard in Valdobbiadene. The Bolla family developed the property, and its six rooms are sumptuously appointed. The décor is eclectic and represents items the family has collected through the years.
Casa Valdo Country House is nestled in the vineyards. Photo courtesy Casa Valdo Country House
For a truly unique experience, La Vigna di Sarah has converted two wine barrels into apartments. The barrels, which sport king-size beds, a bathroom, and air conditioning, let wine lovers sleep beside the vines.
Wine Tasting in Conegliano-Valdobbiadene
Conegliano and Valdobbiadene are about 45 minutes apart, so I suggest spending a day wine tasting in each area, visiting two or three wineries a day.
As you taste in the area, you’ll soon find that while Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Prosecco is already a tiny percentage of the Prosecco produced, there are even more delineated levels. In the area, there are 43 Rive. Rives are the steepest slopes of the region. These wines are considered a cut above the average Prosecco DOCG. The Cartizze in Valdobbiadene is regarded as the top, and you might see Prosecco Superiore di Cartizze DOCG on a bottle denoting its celebrated vineyard.
Each winery offers a line of Prosecco ranging from Brut Nature to Demi-Sec. Brut Nature is bone dry, while Demi-Sec is sweet, determined by how much residual sugar is in the wine. According to most of the winemakers I talked with, Dry is currently the best seller, but the lower sugar Extra Brut and Brut are becoming more popular. It’s important to note that most Prosecco classified as Dry doesn’t taste cloyingly sweet. The best way to find out what you like is to taste a variety of styles from different producers. I found that from one producer, I loved his Brut Nature, and another, I gravitated to their Extra Dry offering.
Most of the producers in Conegliano-Valdobbiadene are small, family-run operations. To experience them, you must book a tasting ahead of time.
Wine tasting in Conegliano-Valdobbiadene. Photo courtesy Beatrice Pillotto
Conegliano Wineries
In Conegliano, start your day with a visit to Sommariva. This family-owned, female-led winery puts out an excellent portfolio of Extra Brut to Dry Prosecco. My favorite bottle was The Rive di San Michele.
I had the pleasure of having dinner with Sebastiano Ricci, the owner of Tenuta degli Ultimi in Conegliano. Of all the wines I tried in the area, his surprised me the most. I didn’t expect to love his zero-sugar Prosecco; it was one of the best bubbles I had on my trip. He also served a 2013 Prosecco, proving that when made with the right grapes and the right hands, Prosecco does have aging possibilities.
The Glera grape is the backbone of Prosecco. Photo by Dena Roché
Valdobbiadene Wineries
To really understand Valdobbiadene’s wines, you have to visit the hillside vineyards. At Bival, third-generation winemaker Paolo Biasiotto and his wife Elisa led me through the vines to a tasting room in the middle of the vineyard. We tried the Costanate Brut Nature, the Pio Brut, and the Aldo Extra Dry. Each wine is named for a family member, and each is expertly paired with a local cheese in the tasting.
In the afternoon, Veronica Ruggeri, one of the winemakers at Le Colture and the daughter of founder Cesare, takes me on a walk through the revered Cartizee, located on the insanely steep Santo Stefano and Saccol hills. As she explains how the sandstone and clay soils help the Glera grape achieve intense aromas, we sip the winery’s Cartizze Prosecco. It’s a unique experience to enjoy a wine right where its grapes come from.
Veronica Ruggeri explains what makes the Cartizee so unique. Photo by Dena Roché
Alessandro Tramet, a brash young Italian, gave up pursuing acting in New York to bring a theatrical flair as one of the young owner-winemakers at Fasol Menin. In addition to producing great wine, his background in theater has led him to bring an American approach to hospitality to the winery. Guests will find paint-and-sip classes, yoga in the vineyard, and music in the vines. Cellar tours and tastings are available.
Dining in Conegliano-Valdobbiadene
Just as the wineries are family-owned, many of the region’s restaurants have that same family feeling. At Osteria Al Castelletto, I’m sure a real Nonna is in the kitchen. The restaurant has several rooms that all feel like they could be a part of my Grandma’s house. Since 1977, the trattoria has dished out rustic chic traditional Venetian fare like tagliatelle with duck and mushroom risotto.
One of the most famous restaurants in the region is Gigetto, whose 80-year-old founder, Gigetto Bortolini, is there to welcome me in. Today, the fourth generation of the family keeps the tradition alive, serving up a menu that bridges tradition and innovation. For me, the highlight of the restaurant is its cellar. Make sure to ask to see it when you are there.
The Cellar at Gigetto. Photo courtesy Gigetto
For a more modern spin on Italian cuisine, head to MaMaGio. You’ll find dishes like beetroot Tortelli with fresh cheese, truffle, and spinach sauce and grilled turbot with marinated cauliflower and tarragon.
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Discovering Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Prosecco
If you’re a wine lover looking to be surprised by a wine and a region, pop the cork on a trip to Conegliano-Valdobbiadene. We invite you to explore Wander With Wonder for more of our favorite Italian sparkling wines, our favorite Italian wines, and more places to visit while you’re in Italy.
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