I spent last weekend in Toulouse – La Ville Rose.
In the south-western part of France, not far from the borders with Spain and Andorra, is the Pink City, so called because of the pretty terracotta buildings that bathe the streets in a warm, rosy hue, particularly enchanting at sunset.
But beyond picturesque architecture, history and culture (it is France, after all), Toulouse is also a major player (perhaps the major player) in the world of aviation, and home of Airbus, the world’s biggest manufacturer of airliners. With ongoing developments in sustainable aviation, Toulouse is at the forefront of creating a greener future for air travel.
I want to learn more about the technological evolution in the aviation industry, so I head out to Aeroscopia Musée Aéronautique.
Aeroscopia Musée Aéronautique, Toulouse-Blagnac
You know I like flying. And I’m not just talking about getting from A to B, but aviation and its fascinating history. Amelia Earhart was one of my childhood heroes. So first order of the day in Toulouse, is an Uber out to Blagnac (near the airport, not surprisingly), to hear more about that story.
Welcome to Aeroscopia
I go through a hallway with images of historic flights, such as that of the Montgolfier Brothers, who launched the first confirmed piloted ascent by humans, all the way back in 1783.
Then into a large hangar filled with a very cool collection of more than 40 planes and helicopters, and a flight simulator with VR helmets n’all.
But first a little aviation history: Who was the first to take-off in a motorised flight?
That’s a matter of definition. Clément Ader was responsible for the first real take-off in an aircraft in 1890. Shortly thereafter, Otto Lilienthal made more than 2000 flights in self-built gliders, in the years 1891 – 1896. A decade later, in 1903, the Wright Brothers joined in the first-flight game.
The criteria of powered flight must remain to some extent a matter of opinion.
Air historian Charles Gibbs-Smith
On to the aircrafts!
More than a century after Clément Ader took to the skies, the world’s largest passenger airliner did the same, in nearly the same location. Just here, above Blagnac, in 2005: the A380.
The Concorde
Aeroscopia houses everything from historic models to the Concorde and the A380. Both iconic! And I can walk through them!
Concorde: the first supersonic passenger-carrying commercial airplane – what a beaut!
Inside the Concorde. This sleek aircraft is all about speed! The record is 2 hours 52 minutes and 59 seconds from London LHR to New York JFK.
I also have a soft spot for the Beluga. Aeroscopia has only a model of the super transporter, used to haul aircraft parts and other outsize cargo.
Huge – and cute!
Toulouse and Airbus: Looking to the future
Aeroscopia is dedicated not only to the history, but even more interestingly, the future of aviation. I love this image of the Airbus Concept Plane for 2050, with the panoramic view.
Count me in for that inaugural flight, Airbus.
Next door is the Airbus factory. You can book a guided tour and get an in-depth behind-the-scenes look at how a massive, cutting-edge airplane is assembled.
Toulouse beyond aviation
Place du Capitole: the heart of Toulouse
Much as I don’t want to leave the world of flying, I feel I will do Toulouse an injustice if I don’t pop into town. There’s heaps to see here in the capital of Occitania.
The place to start is Place du Capitole, the city’s main square, lively by day, lively by night. A fun place to watch life unfold.
The square is dominated by Capitole de Toulouse, the gorgeous neoclassical city hall. It is possible to explore inside, but I’d rather sit at one of the many cafes and restaurants out on the square this lovely Sunday afternoon, and just soak in the atmosphere.
In fact, I enjoy this cheerful square so much, I come back at night, ambling about, snapping photos and drinking wine.
Several streets angle out from Place du Capitole in all directions, small squares, quaint narrow alleys, charming little shops and bistros – lots of delightful details to look at.
River Garonne and the canals
Next, I want to see the Garonne River, the bridges and the canals, and stumble upon another vibrant square, known for bars and nightlife, a popular student hangout. Lots of people out and about today.
Place Saint-Pierre
The oldest bridge in Toulouse is the 16th century Pont Neuf.
I’m in the Quartier Daurade, a district which has remained largely unchanged since medieval times.
View towards the Rive Gauche
Nearby is Hôtel d’Assézat, which is not a hotel, but a private residence turned art gallery. Love the building.
The unusual Basilique Notre-Dame de la Daurade is famous for its black Madonna, protector of the city and of mothers-to-be. The present statue is a copy, since the original 15th century Madonna was burnt on Place du Capitole during the French Revolution.
Canal du Midi
I amble leisurely under a canopy of trees to Canal de Brienne…
Colourful bar next to Saint-Pierre lock
– which links the Garonne to the 240-km-long Canal du Midi, part of the long network of historic waterways that connects the Mediterranean with the Atlantic, through 328 bridges, tunnels, aqueducts, and locks. Double, triple, quadruple and sextuple staircase locks, no less. Pretty impressive engineering for the 17th century. Integral to the Industrial Revolution, and for transporting wine! Art and science blended into one. Hats off to the constructors Pierre-Paul Ricquet and our old acquaintance and builder of forts, Sébastien Vauban.
Canal de Brienne and Saint-Pierre lock
The towpaths lining Canal de Midi are perfect for walking and cycling. Next time I’m in this area, though, I want to take a slow boat trip along the canal, through those historic locks and tunnels, under those bridges, past quaint little villages, lush vineyards and trees, trees, trees, all the way to delightfully mysterious Carcassonne, one of my favourite cities.
Canal du Midi in Carcassonne, snapped nearly 20 years ago.
Jardin Compans-Caffarelli/Jardin Japonais
The final place I want to see here in Toulouse is Jardin Compans-Caffarelli. A breath of fresh air in this lovely park is just what the doctor ordered. (The doctor being my feet; I stupidly wore new boots for this Toulouse walkabout, and am now punished with blisters.)
Jardin Compans-Caffarelli, with the evocative memorial to enslaved people
Nearby is the Marché Victor Hugo, the oldest coverered market in France, selling fresh produce and gourmet goodies. Unfortunately for me, by the time I get there, it is closed. (Open Tue – Sun, 06.00 – 14.00)
Early morning view from my hotel near Place du Capitole
So – that’s a brief exploration of France’s fourth-largest city – by no means comprehensive, but a taste. In sum: Toulouse is about aerospace, heritage (and aerospace heritage), lively squares, cheerful atmosphere, and chilling by the canals. I like it!
PS
At Toulouse-Blagnac Airport, I spot this sign in the security queue:
Children: wait your turn!
No running around, annoying people. No overly permissive coddling. Clear communication. Très français.
Canal du Midi is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Here are more UNESCO World Heritage sites around the world.
Toulouse: heritage, innovation, Airbus is a post from Sophie’s World