Dakhla Grand Mosque
The short road trip from Mauritania to Western Sahara – specifically from Nouadhibou to Dakhla – is a journey with very interesting landscapes and experiences. The coastal views are lovely, the desert expansive, and there’s fun animal encounters to be had. Read on!
We begin in Nouadhibou, or Port-Etiénne back in French times. Nouadhibou is Mauritania’s second city and also the country’s economic capital. It is a centre for deep-sea fishing, and the gateway for the world’s longest train, which is why we are in town.
We have arrived after 13 very hot hours on the Iron Ore Train. But since the train is 16 hours delayed, our schedule sadly does not allow enough time to do Nouadhibou much justice. No time to check out the bustling port, the lively market, and the Mad Max vibe.
Cap Blanc Peninsula
Nouadhibou sits on the narrow Cap Blanc peninsula (Ras Nouadhibou in Arabic). Before hitting the road to Western Sahara, we make a detour for a brief exploration. Most of the road down the peninsula is paved, but there are stretches of desert where the sands encroaches upon the road, making the drive a bit more adventurous.
World’s largest graveyard for ships, no more
Until recently, this area was home to the world’s largest ship graveyard. I am reminded of the abandoned ships by the tragically all-but-dried up Aral Sea in Karakalpakstan – and of the half-sunk ferry left in the Nile in South Sudan. Both surreal visuals.
Here in the Bay of Nouadhibou, small fishing boats, large cargo vessels and everything in between, were abandoned and left to decay. It began in the 1980s, when the government allowed ship owners to ditch their boats for a fee. They probably did not foresee the dimensions of this environmental challenge. By the end, a whopping 300 ships all rested – and rusted – here, some of them partially submerged. Must have been a sad and eerie sight – and, as you would expect, it became a tourist attraction, however unintended.
Sources say the graveyard is now more or less dismantled and the ships have been turned into scrap metal, courtesy of Chinese capital traded for exclusive fishing rights (and more).
The only ships we see are far off the coast – and appear to be alive and kicking.
So, no once proud ships-turned-rusty hulks to be seen. But the lighthouse at the tip of Cap Blanc is a consolation. It was built in 1910 and is usually closed. However, as luck has it, we run into the caretaker, who allows us to enter and climb to the top for some fab ocean views.
There’s just something about lighthouses…
The Cap Blanc Peninsula is divided between Mauritania and Western Sahara, and the lighthouse is just a few metres from the border.
Western Sahara!
About 10 years ago, I was invited on a press trip to Western Sahara. Sadly, it didn’t work out with my plans then, but I have been curious about this enigmatic land ever since. Not least, because colleagues who did go, told of French military aircrafts escorting their plane all the way from Paris to Dakhla.
Africa’s last colony
Once known as Spanish Sahara, Western Sahara is a disputed territory, a leftover from European colonialism. Today, Polisario, representing the Sahrawi Arabs, controls about 1/3 of the area. Morocco has annexed the remaining 2/3. Only the USA and Israel recognise Morocco’s annexation.
Spain decolonised in 1975 and left the territory to a joint Moroccan – Mauritanian administration. They, in turn, began by starting the First Western Sahara War. Mauritania signed a peace treaty with Polisario 4 years later, but the conflict between Morocco and Polisario continued for a further 12 years. They signed a cease fire agreement first in 1991.
Whilst the agreement may have stopped the official war, the issue was still not resolved, and a second Western Sahara War broke out in 2020.
This territory is the only one in Africa that still has not achieved independence. The UN’s position is that the Sahrawis have a right to self-determination, and according to international law, Morocco’s transfer of their citizens into the occupied territory is a direct violation of the 4th Geneva Convention, relative to the Protection of Civilian Persons in Time of War. (Sounds familiar, doesn’t it?)
After Cap Blanc, we proceed to the border, along what is said to be the best road in Mauritania. The Atlantic Ocean meets the vast expanse of the Sahara Desert here, creating a stark and surreal scenery along the road. There are not many settlements along here, just an oddly alluring landscape. Raw nature.
The border crossing
Crossing the border should be an experience in itself. I am expecting multiple checkpoints, maybe even a bit of drama.
As usual, that says more about my fanciful expectations. We leave Mauritania, then travel 3 km through no man’s land, before reaching the wild border with Western Sahara. Except… there is nothing wild about it. Nothing here indicates a need for escort, military or otherwise. Everything is simple and painless. That said, I am not going to underestimate the fact that we have a local along that deals with various branches of Western Sahara law enforcement. All we have to do is hand over our passports a few times, all very unremarkable.
For a short while, near the border area, we drive through Polisario country. Then, we carry on into the Moroccan-occupied part. We switch cars and drivers at the border, not strictly legal, we’re told. Also, there is a bit of tyre changing fun going on, so things take time. TIA.
Everyone helps everyone here
Once across the border, the landscape changes. It is still desert, but the Western Sahara desert has a slightly different feel – a bit more rocky and some greenery here and there. From the border to Dakhla, the road hugs the coast, providing some spectacular Atlantic views. Also, the road is not exactly busy. Feels like we are in a vast desert wilderness. Familiar by now.
Ostriches!
Before reaching Dakhla, we stop at an ostrich farm outside of town. About 460 birds live at Tawarta Autruche.
Cuteness overload
The dry climate work well for raising ostriches, and the farm is touted as a good example of sustainable, ecologically balanced agriculture in harsh conditions. The owner, a local industrialist, also wants to re-locate birds to semi-freedom.
Dakhla
Dakhla is our final destination in Western Sahara, and here we are.
The Dakhla peninsula juts into the ocean, creating a lagoon, a wind- and kite surfers’ wet dream. According to friends who surf, conditions here are fantastic. The wind is almost always just right. Quality waves year round, they say. And because of the exposure, swells come from various directions, creating all kinds of watery fun. For those of us who would rather watch than, you know, drown, it’s all golden sand and turquoise water.
Windy and a bit chilly, despite it being July
Most of the surfer contingent stay in camps north of town, and some of those look very cute and quirky. But since we only have a few nights here, and won’t be surfing, a place nearer the town centre is a better option.
Dakhla town is small and fairly laid-back. No hustle and bustle here.
But that doesn’t mean there aren’t things to explore and fun to be had. Not surprisingly, there is a mosque here, and a few markets, including a handicraft complex, with workshops, exhibition rooms and apprentice training rooms, producing silver jewellery, wooden artefacts, leather goods, sewing and embroider. All to preserve local traditions and educate future generations of craftspeople.
Le complexe de l’artisanat
Food and fun in Dakhla
Dakhla has colourful cafes and some pretty good restaurants, especially along the seafront promenade. We enjoyed Villa Dakhla, next door to the tea pot here –
– and just across the street is a fun pub to celebrate Birthday – part I.
Day and night – like two different places
All in all, and political questions aside, Dakhla is an interesting little place. Just go!
Next stop. Marrakech!
Photos by Andrew Morland, Tom Brothwell and myself.
Destination Dakhla: a road trip in Western Sahara is a post from Sophie’s World