In the last post, we leave Chinguetti and set off for Atar, for one final night before the Iron Ore Train. We drive past the endless sand dunes of the Sahara, interrupted by dramatic cliffs, deep canyons and oases.
We stop for a bird’s-eye view of M’haïreth, one of the largest oases in the Adrar Massif.
High above the oasis, it feels like I’m standing right in front of a giant blow drier, set at full force. Fiery, almost violent, waves of heat, hit me straight in the face.
M’haïreth from above
A little further along is another panorama: the N’Tourvine Pass, looking unreal and a little foreboding under the hazy sky.
The vista and the vastness: a little humbling, a lot exhilarating
The Sahara, the largest desert in the world, with its enormous, sun-baked expanses and seemingly endless horizons of sand, is a harsh, desolate environment. Good thing then, that pockets of life are scattered across this landscape. The oases are sanctuaries of water and greenery, and have always been vital to the survival of humans, animals and plants here.
Oases are the lifeblood of desert communities. They have been critical hubs for trade, agriculture and settlement for millennia. Crossing the Sahara has always needed careful route planning, based on the locations of these watering holes. That’s where you would get supplies. And rest.
We are about to get acquainted with one of these sanctuaries.
Terjit oasis
In the immense, arid wilderness at the edge of the Adrar Plateau, is the Terjit Oasis. As we approach, the landscape changes dramatically, from sand dunes and rocky plateaus to palm groves and springs. Water! Not in bottles!
We stop for lunch, a bath and a nap, although… it seems to be an acquired habit, this napping. We aren’t very good at it.
Terjit is a refreshing retreat from the relentless Saharan sun, with lush vegetation and natural springs that bubble up from the ground, creating pools of crystal-clear water. Towering date palms shade the springs, providing a cool, pleasant environment.
I’m enjoying the sounds here: water flowing, palm fronds rustling, birds chirping, children playing in the springs. Meanwhile, locals are much better at that napping thing. It makes perfect sense in this climate.
This area is also spiritually significant, and has been venue of ceremonies and rituals for generations. In nearby Ouadane is a peculiar round, geological feature known as the Guelb er Richât. During the annual festival named after it, locals gather here in Terjit.
Onwards to Atar
Atar is our final stop before catching the Iron Ore Train from Choum. We are staying a kilometre or so out of town, at a cosy inn called L’Étoile du Nord. I’m glad it’s cosy, as we will end up spending more time here than planned.
But then, of course you cannot plan much with this train. Its purpose is to transport minerals from the large iron ore mine in Zouerat to ships waiting at the Port of Nouadhibou. It leaves when it leaves – and takes as long as it takes. Simple as that!
Atar’s strategic location means it has been a crossroads for traders and nomads for centuries. It was also a stop during the annual Paris – Dakar Rally, back in the day when it actually was Paris to Dakar. (The rally now takes place in Saudi Arabia).
Today, Atar is best known (if known at all) as a gateway to the Sahara Desert. However, as the capital of the Adrar region, the town has a few things to offer in its own right. Atar is home to ca. 25,000 people. It has an airport, a 17th century mosque and a cultural history museum – Musée universitaire d’Atar.
Atar means mountain in the Berber language
Our main reason for stopping off in Atar is to get the remaining supplies. But we have time to have a look around.
The market streets of Atar
Wandering through the narrow, angled streets, we see traditional stone buildings and markets vibrating with colours and sounds.
Bread and water, the basics of survival
Everything seems to be for sale: handicrafts, produce, fresh bread, buckets and boxes full of dates, broken toys…
More Errol than Hedwig, I’d say
Getting supplies for the Iron Ore Train
Baba, our excellent fixer, has provided a large straw mat to sit or lie down on, as well as water. Loads of water! 21 litres for the three of us; and as much of it as possible in a cooler.
What we need to buy for the journey then, is snacks, food and drink (other than water); all available in this supermarket here.
Nothing says Iron Ore Train picnic as a tin of tuna
With the recent national election, Internet – and even mobile reception – has been hard to come by. But the bank next to the supermarket seems to have working net, enough so we can get the most necessary things taken care of.
We also need a few other odds and ends to make the trip a bit more comfortable.
This little shovel will come in handy
Delay
Back at l’Etoile du Nord, we learn that the train is delayed by 12 hours. Instead of departing at 16.00, it will now leave at 04.00. That means we have time to lounge about for the rest of the day, and much of the night. Fortunately, our lodgings here in Atar is very comfortable.
View of Atar from the roof of L’Etoile du Nord
The staff has laid out a large carpet for us in the tiled courtyard, with colourful mattresses and cushions.
A lovely family staying at the inn, gives us a big bowl of dates whilst we wait.
Soon, darkness descends. Looks like the starry Sahara night we reckoned we’d see from the train, we’ll see from here instead.
Only 0.0 % alcohol is available in Mauritania
Finally, midnight arrives and we set off towards Choum.
Stay tuned for the next episode of the Mauritanian adventures:
Riding the Iron Ore Train
Photos by Andrew Morland, Tom Brothwell and myself.
Mauritania: Oases in the Sahara Desert is a post from Sophie’s World